Bert51

dikman, one thing I have learnt, RULE 1: Do Not argue with the wife. Bert.

Dantan, one thing I found was with heavy thread the near the end of the cone has memory of it being wrapped around the plastic cone and I was reading a post by gottaknow about having the thread cone as low as you can get it on the thread stand, I had my my cone to high, I lowered them and set it up like he said and no more problems. This is what gottoknow said, "Two things come to mind. First, if the speed of your motor for your winder is too fast, you don't have a chance, especially with bonded thread. Second, most thread manufacturers recommend having the first guide loop 2 1/2 times the height of the cone height. For example, if the height of the cone is 8", the first loop the thread passes through should be 20" from the base where the cone sits. Thread needs a chance to unwind and relax before it goes through the tension disc. The wire loop also needs to be directly above the centre of the cone. Oh, and lastly, high quality thread tends to behave itself better all the way around. (not judging your thread, just commentary)." Bert.

I do not know how the dealers come up with some of their pricing, but at times I think they work out what it would cost you or me to import it, then add on enough to make it not worth your time to import it yourself. They must be buying a hell of a lot better they we could get it retail in China, their freight must be better and they would not be paying the same handling and import duties as their costs are lower. I have been buying parts for my Motor Bikes from dealers in America since the early 90's and I have been saving at least a third, that was until our dollars fell through the floor. This it my opinion and is not written with exacting research, only from my limited experiences. Bert.

I spoke to my friend earlier trying to get the quantities from him only to find I did not know he added one other ingredient to the mix, he said to made the paste it was Turpentine Pure Gum Spirits, but being the cunning old sod he is, I am still no wiser on how many parts of each to use. Bert.

I have been using the Bees Wax , Neatsfoot Oil and Lanolin for as long as I can remember and so far none of my stitching has rotted through mildew or water damage (not counting stupidity either) and the leather I use is still waterproof and not hard and stiff. When I need more all I do is give him enough Bees Wax Neatsfoot Oil and Lanolin to make two lot and I get one lot back, which I am very happy with. Bert.

I was to9ld by a friend when I brought my first machine to find some scrap and practice, then each time you change thread practice. When you cut out a new project, before you start sewing get the scraps and pactice with so you know that your stitches are right before you put the needle into your project. Every time I'm in a hurry and do not run some scrap first I get bitten. Si I tell every one to practice. Bert.

I did a search on this site and found that this subject has been raised before, I found this link Bert.

I use a paste that was given to me made from Neatsfoot Oil, Lanolin and Bees Wax. I do not know what amounts are used, but I know it's good stuff. I know my boot are water proof and is kept in good condition. Bert.

I was given a dressing for leather that needs water resistant, it's paste made with lanolin, NeatsFoot oil and Bees wax. It's a little hard in the middle of our winter, but is just right in the warmer months. I put it on, leave it for 24 to 48 hours, then buff it off with an old piece of cloth. If you where to give it a couple coats, I think you could drop it in a bucket of water and it would be still dry and hour later. I do not know what parts of each he uses, but a little playing around with it, you could work out the formula. Bert.

Talking control with a clutch motor, I think they are getting bad reputation, because of being setup incorrectly. It sounds like your new machine is setup is adjusted good, please don't run out and buy a new servo motor as you may not need it and the money could be use to buy different feet or toys for you new machine. Most setups I have seen, have the tension of a car fan belt and motor is many years old and never seen any lubrication at all on the moving parts of the clutch. I have my Adler 105 and Singer 132K6 on clutch motors with 50mm pulleys and have no problem with speed control, but I have been told I have loose belts on the machines. My foot peddle is very light to the touch. Bert.

It has given me an idea or two for the next table I make. I wish my table on my Adler 105 was that big. Bert.

Most of my machine come home behind the drivers seat and the reason being I pack and wedge them in place so I get no movement. I have Juki 555-5 here that I am fixing for friend that fell off the rear seat, broke and damaged most of the tension assemblies and thread take up and now he has to get his seat repair where the machine caught it going down when he hit the brakes. If he listened to me and put it behind the seat, he would be using it instead of waiting for parts.

I made a new frame, out of recycled steel tube and made a top out of two layers of industrial ply glued and screwed from underside for an overlocker and it is less then 2 foot square and does the job nicely. I made it to fit in a corner and if you where to made something, you can made how you want, you could have it so the piece you cut off swing up to give you a full size when needed. If you have to have it made the the price goes out the window. Bert.

I just saw this SINGER SEWING MACHINE 29K13 on eBay Australia and I have never seen one setup like this before and the set up is interesting, I thought. Bert

Looks like I will need to put a Kevlar lining in my Leather vest now.............. Bert.

Nice, very nice, might have to borrow that idea. Bert.

I thought they were old, but I don't think they were First Fleet old, maybe 196 of 775?.

Thank Frodo, I forgot to take a photo with some measurement in it, these lovely old scissors are just over 13 inches long. The only makers mark on them is #196 stamped on the inside of the blades near the hole, no name on them anywhere. Bert.

I acquired a new four sided Diamond stone and that made a big difference and was able to remove the previous owners attempt at sharpening them. May need another new stone shortly. Thanks to Lynn the use of a magic marker between passes made a large difference. I have been sharpening my own Knifes and scissors for 40 plus years and thought I had a good handle on it, but the magic marker showd me that the cutting edge was a lot rounder then I though possible, after ever pass I could still see a thin black line on the edge, with out the mark I would not have seen it in good light. Thanks again for that one Lynn. Thank to all, it looks like I am on the right track, all I need to do now is reset them.................... Bert.

Thank you for your help, I am unable to file these scissors, I had a near new, but old English WILTSHIRE file and it is ruined, it just slid across the surface, they are that hard. I am very reluctant to give them to any one to sharpen, the blades had a right angle fold in them, with the bend they will not fit in any jig I have seen on the net or youtube. I looked at Twice as Sharp some time back, but I do not think the blades will fit into their jig, again the right angle bend would be the problem. I have a bench grinder that I have used well (abused) over the years, but I do not like the idea of holding by hand and rick getting a blue spot in them. Again, thank you for your help, Bert.

I have looked on Youtube and the net and thy tell me the angle to sharpen them, I purchased one the to knife and scissor sharpeners that fredk mentions, but these blades have a right angle in them and will not go into the housing the length of the blade. I have several pairs of Wiss scissors and I can sharpen them on my oil stone, but these blades are so hard I have ruined a good file and a daimond sharpening stone they sold me at a hardware store. I may have to take them to a sharpener in the big smoke. Bert.

Thank you Rckoboy, but sadly I have not been in Perth since I went over for my granddaughters 21st a few years back and she up north, where I used to work, a life time ago. The jig the local mob have will only fit straight blades. I cannot believe how hard the metal is. Bert.

I am looking for advice on how to sharpen an old pair of Scissors. I took them to a local sewing shop and ask to talk to some one how does sharpening and a young man comes to me and asked if he could help. I showed him the scissors and looks at me with a silly look on his face and said, "we cannot sharpen them". When I asked why, he said that they will not fit in there Jig. I have tried then on a oil stone and all it did was polish them a bit, took them out to the shed, put them in a vice with could of bit of wood I famde to hold the blade and found a old file I have had for years, but not used from England and two or three passes ruined the file. I do not wish to use the bench grinder on them, but they need to be sharpened. I have enclose a photo or two and yes the blade have a right angle bend in them. Thanks, Bert.

My Adler 105 traveled nearly 1000 k's home wrapped up behind my seat and arrived home safe and sound, wish my back was as good. Packed tight in the tub, it should travel well home. Bert.

Thank you Jimi, but I borrowed the pictures for your posting and found the to differ a bit, I will need to reduce their size so I can get the PDF small enough to post here. I'm working on a couple laptops at the moment, hopefully I will have time at the weekend to play with them. Bert.