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Its likely you will need to remove the cover at right if the needle so to see the feed dog screws. This can be done without much worry, removing the feed dog that is. With this removed you can better see the issue, as in previous posted photos, the second one particulary. As you may notice in photo and after tilting the head back onto its stand peg. The part that sits between the hook and feed dog, this guides or controls the thread in its path. This part has to sit correctly its the tab in alignment and in the slot. I found many of the post on forum about this very good. Floyd

Thats a real nice job there Uwe. Its a pro version of the typical serger design, a class act! I been meaning to ask if that plywood you use is an mdo with a seal coat on it, or possibly a formica. On another note I sure wished I had access to the metal brake as in bending the aluminum for the corner structure pieces. Good day Floyd ps; i just seen your other reply of phenolic plywood, Interesting.

Strange as it sounds, I glanced up and noticed a couple thread stands the same. Top section o.d. = .625”/15.8mm and the i.d. = .5”/12.8mm Its been my experience, if it takes all day to find an item like this today. Sure enough tomorrow the same item will be discovered in a crazily simple manner. Silly but typical, I thought prior to this project i would be set on using a couple old 15mm pulleys, to my suprise the SW6000 has the shaft end turned down to a smaller diameter versus the the old 5000’s Great tip and link there, with the shim materials being pretty accessible. Good day Floyd

Thanks Don for the tips. Running onto a sale with them pulleys you found is for sure a prize. With some patience Im waiting on a 3/8” bore pulley and with some plans to drill it with a 15/32 bit. Im sure a bit of sand paper in the bore to finish. Hey appreciate it Floyd

A 2” pulley or 50mm on the servo is needed for the best slow speed “ without a reducer setup”. Some now days come with a 60mm and list no smaller option. Older models I have and as many others pursued this option just for this slow speed advantage. As you know it also adds a small amount of torque. I think its best if you can see the machine perform through some stitch selections prior to purchase. In some textiles we can use more stitch if wanted but vinyl and leather I think we need a bit more spacing between holes. Everyones different in their projects, 5 or 7 stitches per inch is ok for me. But this is totaly dependent on project. Good day Floyd

Excellent find! Them reducers use to be 180.$ so your doing great, you should have bought a lottery ticket also. Its been your lucky day Floyd

Good morning! I have an interest in a source for a ( listen ), larger servo pulley. Can you imagine that. Well I am and particularly with a bore diameter of: 12mm The shaft is looking to be 11.8 - 9, so my interest is possibly up around 120 + or - As Im working with a compound system at the present and just experimenting. Oh and about forgot the typical 3/8”or M, 3L v-belt size In my homework, I havent called the Pro dealers at this time. Thanks everyone Floyd

I think a good start and an automatic one would lean me to a machine that I have used. In agreement here on the assembling a unit. Many times this is enjoyable anyway, in this case I dont think shipping is a lot different imo. Saying this as the head on that choice machine is above standard weights for ups. What seems to catch me though is some dealers I think! That frequent the forum may personaly have the machine head out of the factory box and run it through its paces. Im well aware that the factories do their thing but Im still inclined to think what i said happens. So with this I have to weigh my options and then choose one and sometimes I also use standards from historical points. Good day Floyd

It continues to suprise me now days the companies or really people in general that actually don't use or partake in the web/internet. I had early on thought wrong in thinking it was an older crowd that did not use this medium. As i said i was wrong I find more young as in 60 and younger and primarily in the 40-60 range that dont use it. Rather somehow ask others to check this or that for them. Yet drive all over town and or use this method for a week in their hunt for items of interest. Its silly Back to the issue, I would make a phone call to the company of interest. I do think that email you sent was a smart move. Sometimes even the emails are not kept up with as much as they would like to. Good day Floyd

Possibly if manual is for a CW it is refering to the drain area in the bottom when you tilt the head back. I wonder if the manual may have some reference to the LCW as that has an upper reservoir. good day Floyd

Good points! In some needle study this evening waiting for paint to dry. I looked around some and there are for sure scattered needle number systems that world manufactures just couldnt or wouldnt agree to earlier standards with the same. Here is an interesting bit I found from a haystack. http://www.dotec.com.tw/product-detial.php?p_id=8 http://www.dotec.com.tw/product-detial.php?p_id=132 http://www.dotec.com.tw/product-detial.php?p_id=112 http://www.dotec.com.tw/product-detial.php?p_id=109 Floyd

I believe that needle number is 2110402-194 in your parts book Over on thread exchange their showing some Groz Beckert needles for the 310 as these: DBX1- and or 1738A. Showing a few different for thread sizes. Good day Floyd

That table top plywood looks great. If you have access to a shop vac, some very small hose or plastic tubing can be taped to the vac hose. With this its possible to easily get in the areas filled with textile dust and threads. I always found this time consuming work to be best prior to any liquid cleaning. For sure trying to shorten the time frame a professional is required to spend at it, times money as they say. I do understand we cannot do it all. On the otherhand these task do require several items for the task and benefit with a big flat sheet pan for liquid collection. I found the cleaning brushes in kits for Spray paint Guns work superb. Good day Floyd

Some of the fabric, craft or box stores have little bottles of real sew machine oil. This works in the mean time as your qt. or gallon order is in the mail. It all sounds great for ya on the machine find, good work there. Good day Floyd

There are several types now, that part is bothersome. But I use to use some of the early mechanix gloves, when I actually turned wrenches before retiring. They were thin yet leather palms and fingers with some other material on the back side and parchel back of fingers. At that time my first pair ( at the auto parts ) was 20.$ many years ago Just recently picked up a 6 pac of thin cowhide type, I always liked these as there nice thin welding, working gloves and menards had them on sale. Good day Floyd

Uhm this can get crazy deep so keeping a standard troubleshootin method is best. To be fair and really on point, photos can be a best discussion start or ice breaker. To be quite honest I would very much like to have and then know more with zig zag and that benefit. In my mind the tension should be very very similar. But I will ask some others to chime in on this as This dog needs to stay on the porch this time. For sure try and have a Good day Floyd

So guys, in humor ! I couldn't hold my thoughts back. We are always looking for a Half right snap have a good day Floyd

In not sure your local apparell fabric will carry these. Maybe? anyway that machine I believe is using a : 135 X 17 system in non leather points, these come in many thread sizes. For this I would pick up 10 each in 18, 20, 22 for now. This will work for some 69-138 threads. I like 19 with the 92 threads. For the leather material they ( mfg ) designate the 135 X 16 system needles and these also come in a best # for thread sizes. Along side the system number ( 135x16 or 17 ) in buying these. There are numbers for thread size and can have a number like 110/18 or 125/20 and 140/22 so as mentioned above. A ten pac is fine especialy after a couple hundred yards, you might need to or just change out for a needle for good times. Good day Floyd

As you been working with these projects awhile you have surely found servos are pretty nice. So with something like that planed a 563 in great shape would be excelent. Photos would help but that price is real good, I wouldnt take that price as joke. But anyhow just keep a look out for one your happy with. Good day Floyd

If you have the hook point meeting in the cut out portion (scarf) of the needle when it comes around with a couple paper thickness’s clearence, 3’s fine. Well then your in the range for sure. Keep us posted Floyd

Sounds really nice. Some of the connections can be tricky, so calm and a couple tiny flat screw drivers to help with them to release. Not sure but alwsys a grest idea for some side cutters for them plastic ties, they may be a pain. Also you know to have some small metric and standard wrenches snd a cresent. I always like them moving blankets for wrapping the machine head for a road trip. If any oil is there a couple good ways to keep that dry should be top of the list Good day with the trip Floyd

Heres a start https://www.litosonline.com/en/articles/en/76/inada-granite-japanese-traditional-light-grey-ornamental-rock good day Floyd

There are several members that have made these. The interest in the design was to me probably same as everyone else. Though one should consider this taper design uh pretty ancient, and I mean tested well. IE hold your arm out and thumb pointing (sorta) consider a tapered shape at the end, yep its pretty flat level or more so than our newer styles. Its also weird how these are way more effecient in power and not that heavy. Thats all I got, other than the tapered is something new to use. Give this search method on google a try site: leatherworker.net : mauls Good day Floyd

What happens to the bottom thread. Also the needle bar height adjustment. Is the hook point on time here. Good day Floyd

It really should have been sewn in, or the ends folded in itself and sewn over. This is the standard anyway. In that outdoor kind of saddle bag it does need to be what it is or a poly style cording for outdoor. I would pull it and trash it. If it was possible to get something through there to help feed another that would be great. But maybe another piece of the same or similar could be used, though sewn at the end somehow. Good day Floyd