garypl

How about using a piece of cardboard as a mask so you only hit the edge and a small amount of the surface? If you don’t spray very heavy you should be able to feather the dye. Gary

Looks like you scored a sweet deal, congratulations! The letter stamps alone are worth @$35 a set. Gary

I like both holsters and those S&W’s! I have two Model 10’s and a Model 64 that I want to make holsters for - just ordered a Model 10 blue gun. I’ll post pics when I have something to show! Gary

Nice job Jeff - looks like a S&W in there with really nice stag horn grips! Gary

I also have used Danish oil for years because it is easy to use, provides a nice smooth finish, and is very easy to repair or touch up. I apply oil liberally and let it soak into the wood. Then I wet sand starting with 200 grit wet/dry paper and moving up to 400 grit and then 600 grit to finish. The sanding dust mixes with the oil to create a slurry that fills the wood pores. You can make a glass like finish (and after curing is also food safe.) Gary

As far as I know all of the Tandy/Radio Shack stores in the United States are now closed. I used to buy small electronic components from the local Radio Shack. Once everything went solid state, I guess demand for components dropped severely, leaving only Radio Shack branded merchandise. The brand which never seemed to have a reputation for top quality, although I still use a Radio Shack multimeter I bought about 30 years ago.

Welcome Saddleman! This is a wonderful forum and there are so many talented people here that are willing to step up to help us novices. It’s a great place to share and learn. Look forward to seeing your projects. Gary

Beautiful work and the detail is amazing. Your edges also are superb and that is a solid knife to go with it! What weight leather did you use for the various pieces? Gary

That’s a beautiful holster and the stitching looks great! Please provide build details (type and weight leather, thread, dyes used). I have never tried to build this type holster - do you stitch everything first and then wet mold the leather to the pistol ? Gary

I never thought that dyes would give such vibrant, defined colors and not bleed outside the area you are spraying. I’ll have to play around a bit with my airbrush, but I don’t think I am capable of this kind of work (at least not now, will require a lot of practice to get close to this!)

That’s pretty cool Mike! The leather is so grainy - what type leather are you using? Gary

That’s beautiful work Jeff! What kind of paint do you use? Gary

Ohio Travel Bag has #9 rivets and burrs for @$20-21 lb Gary

Thanks Bob! It has a clutch motor and are asking $575 - does this sound reasonable? I think I would want to replace with a servo motor. Gary

Can anyone advise on quality/suitability of a Tacsew GC6-6 walking foot machine for sewing lighter leather? I am looking for a flat bed machine that will handle lighter threads down to 69. Found one for sale but don’t know much about this model other than it is discontinued. Gary

Like Fred said - I used my drill press and a cross vise to hold the ram straight. I drilled using a 3/8” twist drill - not that hard if you take your time. If you can find a small machine shop nearby you could have them do it and hopefully they will charge a reasonable price! Gary

It’s in the How Do I Do That forum - thread started June 28, 2016 by Double Daddy. There probably is a way to copy the link, but I don’t know how to do that - sorry!

Here is an article on the arbor press mods - search for this topic Snaps/rivets/makers mark...press to use?

Gabriel, I have the same press and I drilled a 3/8” hole in the end of the ram, then drilled and tapped a hole perpendicular for a set screw. Most of the stamps, setters etc I use are 3/8” diameter and slide right into the hole in the ram. Smaller stamps go into a 3/8” bushing and then go in the ram. Works great! Gary

Welcome to the forum. Good start - suggestions that will make your project look better: finish the edges - either burnish or use edge paint - both look nice. Also use a stitching chisel or pricking iron to set your holes so spacing is even. These two items will vastly improve the appearance! Gary

Thanks - it's difficult to see in the picture, but did you stitch on three sides and on the RH & LH bottom? Gary

I use Atom Wax on tooled pieces and have not had any problems with white residue. I apply several light coats and ensure there are no heavy deposits. If tooling is deep I use a shoe shine brush to buff it - works great! Gary

Those look good - what weight leather did you use? Gary

When I used my lube pot I took a small piece of soft sponge, cut a slit in it, and ran the thread through it just before it exited the lube pot. Never had any problem with excess lube getting all over. Gary