garypl

Made a belt pouch to hold 12 ga shells for my friend’s retirement party. Used 4-5 oz leather stitched with .8mm tiger thread.

I have a branding tool I bought years ago for woodworking. It's made of brass and I heat it up with a propane torch. Tried it on leather once and it worked OK, but it is easier to use my arbor press and another stamp I have to imprint my name onto leather. I ordered the branding iron from Woodworker's Supply, but it was many years ago. Do a Google search for wood branding irons and you will find them in all price ranges on line. Gary

Looks just like mine when I received it! A little filing brought it square - I also notched my needle foot - makes it much easier to see where needle is going to hit - just have to be careful when holding threads at start of stitching - I learned the hard way that if the thread slips outside the foot and you are pulling the needle to the side it will hit the needle foot with bad results! Gary

Jeff - you are spot on - doesn't make a difference how a product is made, if the quality is poor, it is not acceptable. There are well made mass-produced items as well as hand made items. On the flip side, there are also very poor quality mass-produced and hand made items. When I buy something I don't particularly care how it was made or how long it took to make, as long as the quality is acceptable and it meets my expectations! Gary

Tom, I agree with you about the alcohol fumes - that's why I generally try to apply dye to large pieces outside. Thanks for bringing this important point to everyone's attention. Gary

John - I spray in my basement. I put a large disposable aluminum pan (the kind you buy to roast a large turkey) in front of a box fan with two furnace filters in front of the fan. I have a large piece of cardboard behind the pan to contain the spray. Turn the fan on so it is pulling air from the pan area and spray away. Overspray is sucked into the filters and for small jobs it works great. The pan contains any overspray and drips from the airbrush. Been doing it this way for a couple of years now with no problems. For larger jobs that would generate a lot of fumes, I go outside, weather permitting. In the winter or in inclement weather I have to spray indoors, but I wear a face mask to keep the nasty funes away. Gary

I have a 48” ruler bolted to the edge of my bench. I loosen the bolt on one side, slip the leather under the ruler and align it, then tighten the bolt. I press down on the ruler as I cut and it keeps the leather very secure while cutting. For obvious reasons it will not work with pieces too large to fit under the ruler. Gary

That’s good advice Joon - now that I have been using my machine for awhile I will see how I do with bumping up the speed dial! Gary

Should depend on sizes of the pulleys. Best to go test the machine, if possible, so you can decide if it will sew slow enough for you. I have a CB4500 and my normal speed is about 50 stitches per minute. Gary

Guess you need a thumb wheel controller then [sorry, way off topic, but I couldn't resist] Now that look’s handy!

Buzzard, I think axe sheaths are more difficult to form than most knife sheaths. I just made a cover for a double bit axe to protect the edges of the axe. Wasn’t sure how to begin so I made a paper template by tracing the axe, the cut two covers, one for each side, and used line 24 snaps to secure everything. The thickness on the blade edges is almost 3/4” - 2 layers of 8-10 oz plus the welts. Don’t think this design will work for a carry sheath, but will provide protection for the blade. Gary

Deemer, I think you did a great job on your bag. I like the red thread! Only critique I have is maybe you should glue and sew the ends of the straps so they don’t stick out. Nice job! Gary

I do use a speed reducer - but I sew very slowly to begin with and I don’t want to overrun my stitching path when I am sneaking up at the end of a run. Gary

Very nice work Frank! Which background tool are you using on the revolver holsters? I like the nice even background. Gary

I tried to sew sitting on a stool, but I cannot control the speed consistently unless I am standing up. Seems like when I am sitting I try to feather the pedal and I end up pressing too hard and it takes off! Gary

Brian - gives me a greater appreciation on how much design and assembly effort goes into making a bag! My hat's off to you and your team. Gary

Thanks Brian - I order from them and I will check them out! Gary

Brian, those bags look fantastic! What are the metal rods you use to attach the straps to the bags? Gary

I’ve never tried paint on bridle leather, but I know that the Giardini paint I use sticks tenaciously to just about anything it touches, so it is likely it will work on bridle leather. I would wipe the area to be painted with some alcohol first to minimize any oil or wax on the surface, then try to rough the surface a little before painting. Try it on some scrap and give it some time to see if any oil comes back to the surface to cause any problems. Gary

Nice looking wallet - where did you get the pattern? I have also switched to applying dyes and finishes with an airbrush - less waste and good results! Gary

Bung?

I like the way it looks! Kind of an antique look to it. I would finish it and call it a day! Gary

Thanks Stewart - I don't even keep my wallet in my back pocket because it is uncomfortable! Nice looking holsters anyway - I am planning on making something for my front pocket for S&W Bodyguard. Gary

Hey Stewart - these look good! But isn't it a pain to have to keep taking the holster out of your back pocket every time you sit down? How heavy is the leather you used? Gary

Very nice job Jet! Gary