Halitech

The photo albums would have plastic pages to hold the photos which would prevent the photos from contacting the leather. Plus, it's probably lined as well 95%+ leather that is colored, is chrome tanned. Only veg tanned leather will take the water needed to stamp names, etc. You can do a gold foil stamp or heat stamp but you would be needing a new stamp for each customer and they aren't cheap

looks good and I'm sure she will love it. Few items to watch for though 1. a large amount of the letters show the square around them so you either pressed too hard or leather was too wet when stamping 2. on the border at the top right and bottom left, you have 4 on the bottom and 5 at the top. Minor thing but noticable. 3. top left edge, you can see where you got very close to the edge and it has become distorted Overall, really nice job and you should be proud of it. It took me almost 3 years before I would even try sheridan style so you are ahead of me in that way

mom will love it image didn't come through but pretty sure she'll still love it because you made it for her

Using Freds directions (before he posted them) is the way I did this case. Needle nose pliers came in really handy for the bottom and about half of the sides until I could get my fingers on the needle properly. I have the plans done up for another that I'm going to do a strap and latch type of closure.

just to throw another idea in the mix, what about a closure with a button stud or snap?

@monkeyy try picking up a few of the refillable dye pens from tandy. I grabbed 2 and filled 1 with black for doing that type of work and it is a heck of a lot easier then using a paint brush, no matter how small.

look up Studio-N here on the board. He makes them out of delrin so price is good and I've got a few that work fine with my press

not sure what to do with you kiwi lol

It's exactly like our skin. Only difference is only PETA complains when a cow is killed and has their skin used to make something we need

looks good except the rivets not matching the clasps but I have the same issue finding matching rivets. Kiwi you still haven't made that card case?

they do and the manager actually encourages them to work with and use the equipment and finishes during work hours. Most days I go in and someone is working on tooling something or dying or building. Far as I'm concerned, you can't know the product if you don't use it and the manager here feels the same way. And I know it's fashionable to bash on Tandy but honestly, I've not had the issues up here that most have and maybe it's a Canadian thing Not everyone has the advantage of being able to get business or wholesale accounts with the big guys though.

I second CircleZ on Mainethread. I've been using it for a while now and while the shipping and converting to CND funds is a kick in the nads, it's worth it over using tandy's threads. I use 0.030 for most things but I do keep some black in 0.020 and 0.045 for those occasions when I need something else.

that depends on the store. At the store closest to me, it's right next to the eco flow dyes at the FRONT of the store and the manager gives me just as good a deal on the fiebings stuff as I get on the tandy products. They also don't push the tandy stuff, they will give an honest pros and cons of both brands to people when they come in

1 question no one has asked and to me is important to know, what kind of leather are you putting your mark on? If it's chrome tanned, wetting and pressing is not going to work well so you are going to need something solid like what N-Studio does on aluminum so it can be heated. If it's veg tanned, you can get someone like DZ Tech in the Valley to make you a stamp on a 3D printer and will probably cost less then the gas to come to the valley to get it.

That was nice of them :/ I knew you would be on top of things and would be working behind the scenes to keep things running and had a plan Let us know when it's ready and we'll test it for you

part of the tanning process is stretching so yes, those go all the way around from the clips they use

I'm pretty sure the boss is aware the chat isn't working but was wondering if there was an update on when they hope to have it working again.

Can't help with measuring points but I'd start by asking what style does s/he want? I did a google search and there are numerous styles so that's where I would start. Then, I'd get the boot s/he is planning on wearing them with, put painters tape on them at the sides, front and back, then mark and measure.

I don't think Bones was so much talking about the ending of the stitch with the backstitch as he was talking about going across the leather. Punching 9 or 10 holes in the leather to stitch weakens the leather considerably and will make it a potential fail point in the future.

thanks for this info TFarage. I picked up some designer leather yesterday and made this up today. Lined it with silky liner material as well so it will appeal to the ladies as a make up bag as well

Thanks everyone, it was hard to work on at times and had to stop numerous times as I was worried about making mistakes when my emotions got the better of me but I'm sure he'd be very proud and happy to see what I have done. The placement ceremony should be in the next few weeks once my uncle gets home from Ontario

Those that know me know that my grandfather recently passed away. He was a deeply religious man and very faithful to his church and his family so I wanted to do something to honor him. Done on 8oz leather, dyed with chestnut all in one, the writing was done with a Pilot hi-tecpoint V5 grip gel pen. Coated with 4 coats of resolene applied with an airbrush. Framing was by Michaels and cost me a lot more then I was thinking but sets it off nicely. Leather size is 8.5x11

what I've started doing is not finished punching the holes until after I have all the tooling and dye work done. If you are using precut blanks, try putting some masking tape over the back. I don't use too much antique any more

Looks good and you've gotten some well learned experience Biggest issue with a lot of the info in the old books is they don't take into account the current equipment we will be using them with. I'm not a shooter or collector but I'd have to guess that the old 6 shooters weren't as thick as today's pistols, especially in the barrel area so we need to make adjustments for that. And I made the same mistake with a knife sheath I made for myself, made it for a lefty and I'm a righty