Halitech

looks good. could have gotten a little closer to the edge with your stitching but overall, looks good. Nice even stitching, even color and edges look pretty good. Using tandy awl thread?

Conversion from Yardage to Sq. Ft. As mentioned above, leather is generally measured in square feet (sq. ft.), but some patterns call for a certain number of yards. Use the examples below as guidelines to convert the yards into sq. ft.: The pattern calls for 3 yards of 36" fabric. Use a conversion factor of 9: 3 x 9 = 27 Add 20% 6 Total...33 sq. ft. needed. The pattern calls for 3 yards of 45" fabric. Use a conversion factor of 11: 3 x 11 = 33 Add 20% 7 Total....40 sq. ft. needed. The pattern calls for 3 yards of 54" fabric. Use a conversion factor of 13: 3 x 13 = 39 Add 20% 8 Total....47 sq. ft. needed. Adding the 20% allows some extra to make up for imperfections, holes or any loss in cutting. https://www.tandyleather.ca/en/leather-buying-guide.html

Like NVL, I don't actually use much cloth for lining anything. Usually the only time I do is if I'm lining the cash slot with RFID blocking material and then I double the top over and sew everything else in between the layers. Personally, I go 4/5 for the back (outside) and then 3/4 for the inside and then 3/4 that's been split to 2/3 for the pockets

when you say a liner, are you referring to lining the cash slot, lining card slots to hold cards or the piece you are attaching the card slot to? Each option will change the answer for me If it's lining the cash slot, I go with cloth. If you are talking about the lining on card slots, ribbon. If you are referring to the backing, 2/3 oz veg tan. If it's something else, we need to have more details

his other thread on the same subject

depends on if you want to do anything on the front or you are leaving it plain. If you plan on leaving it plain, you could use the veg tanned as a liner like kiwi said and glue the other leather to the flesh side of the veg tanned. Just turn it so the grain side will be facing the legal pad

I'm about 3 years in and I'm like you, no overhead, no machine costs and certain skills are still in the rough stage and I usually go with 2x the material costs plus 15% wiggle room. Some things with little room for screwing up (like belts with nothing on them) I've looked around etsy and local customers to come up with a price that most will pay with little to no issue and then work up from there depending on what is being added. If it's a stamped name, do it for next to nothing or for free to get a favorable customer word of mouth advertising. I really don't like seeing anyone give anything away. 1. You start giving stuff away and people will always expect it. 2. It makes people not value your work at all and even starting out, you are better then those that can't make anything.

I don't use alcohol based dyes but I use snow proof all the time as a top coat on both the grain and flesh side. I rub it on, apply a low heat to melt and then buff with a dry cloth right away.

1. edges could use a burnishing, 2. stitch line is not square to the edges. 3. stitch holes look like they were made with a nail 4. cuts are really uneven 5. you have a $10.00(max) usb thumb drive in $0.30 worth of leather and trying to sell it for 4 times too much

most people use an airbrush to do multiple colors. you can also try block dying

Yin swears by Tiger thread and lin chinois or something like that. I like the poly thread from Maine Thread co. Heck of a lot cheaper then the carriage thread tandy sells and available in multiple weights and colors

if it's stretchy, check fabric stores as well. I got some 2.5mm at 99cents a yard that I use for FF radio and pager cases

looks good but 1 question. With using 6oz and having doubled it on the front piece, how well does it go on the front button? I usually go with 9oz and skive the end down to about 7oz where it goes on the button. You would have roughly 12oz or are you skiving it down some?

take/ship that piece of crap back and do as TT says, buy some leather and make your own. If you keep it, they will just keep producing more crap. Take it back and help force them to start putting out quality items.

I usually keep a 120grit on mine and then use emery boards (yes, the ones women use on their nails) to finish with

Bikermutt, I know they do but when a friend can make them for $15.00CDN, doesn't make much sense to pay $35US plus shipping :D

I have a power fist rotary tool will speeds from 10k to 35k RPM. I usually run mine at the 2 setting for sanding. I'm waiting on a friend to make a burnisher for me so not sure on the speed required for that.

most times I'll apply them after applying dye

I use HB Smith brand steel wool in 0000 weight and have never had to burn off anything. In fact I just finished a batch using a gallon of vinegar and 2 pads and no issues at all so if you got it from a hardware or craft store, it shouldn't have any oil on it.

of course. conditioners are just that, conditioners. They still need a finish on top of them

looks like the leather was too dry to me. Usually best to wait until you've done any forming before putting resolene on so you can dampen it with water before bending

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that mink oil paste will soak into leather like water into a dry sponge and will basically make it water resistant. Hate to say it but good luck

this guy just sold his for 600 with 12 wheels in 4 days. The wheels go for around 25.00 each new so figure around 200 for the wheels used, leaves you around 400 for just the machine

sorry if this offends you but I'm wondering if this is just the design or is this one finished? The lines around the bottom of the anchor I would move out a bit more from the circles and I'd add beveling around the shield to add some depth