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Halitech

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Everything posted by Halitech

  1. Halitech
    Welcome to the insanity called leather working The classic double shoulder you are looking at is, as suggested by the category it is listed in, is finished so it will not accept tooling, dye or any other finishes. The other one will. And like cj, I've had good luck with my leather purchases from tandy but I always go in and pick over the leather to get what I'm looking for instead of having them ship me whatever.
  2. Halitech
    the tri weave is the hardest to master but once you get it, all others are easy. I like your color combination and your letters. Only thing I would point out is the ends where you laced it together. On the next one, put your edges together and make sure they are the same size before you start doing any carving or tooling so you don't have 1 corner sticking out and not being inline with the other edges.
  3. Halitech
    use double sided tape or glue the pieces together first. Then punch/stitch
  4. Halitech
    I've used Varathane brand Red Chestnut wood stain before. It does take longer to dry and takes more work to buff but it came out pretty close to the same color as when used on pine. Recommended? not really. Doable? yes.
  5. Halitech
    Depends on just how crooked they are. If it's just a little bit, you could. If it's a lot, probably not
  6. Halitech
    dye the purse black jk but so far, I've not found anything to remove it
  7. Halitech
    cutting it out, that's the easy part. Getting all the fold lines in the right place, that's the hard part :/
  8. Halitech
    The only 2 things that come to mind for me are these: https://www.tandyleather.ca/en/product/squeeze-frame and these: https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/498438190/vintage-tooled-leather-coin-purse-with?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=leather coin purse&ref=sr_gallery_26
  9. Halitech
    for belts and holsters, the 8/9 is all you need. For wallets, you will want 4/5 for the backs and 2oz for the inside or you'll be sitting on a really thick item. I bought the cheap one from tandy and it works great for items under 3" wide
  10. Halitech
    I'm sure Chief and Rohn and a few other oldtimers will be glad to hear that about the lace so they can stop using it after 40 years. If your lace is brittle, maybe it's a problem with your lace as some people use it on holsters for every day carry and they don't have an issue with it breaking. I thought maybe you had an issue with transitioning from a single layer to 2 layers on a corner or just don't like doing corners at all.
  11. Halitech
    looks good but just curious, why go from lacing on the top opening to stitching on the sides?
  12. Halitech
    neatsfoot oil is not a finisher, it simply adds oils back into the leather that dying and tooling removes you want leather that is flat on the flesh side. If it's hairy or stringy, it's lower quality. See NVL's response about armour all I use Aussie conditioner and beeswax mainly and sometimes tan kote or resolene
  13. Halitech
    couple of questions 1. where did you get the leather 2. how thick (weight) is the leather 3. if you apply some neatsfoot oil to it before dying, does it get softer 4. does it get stiffer after you apply the armour all?
  14. Halitech
    if I'm getting your question, you're looking for info on the stiffener inside. Tandy, SLC and others all carry a bag stiffener. It's like a waterproof cardboard and not that expensive
  15. Halitech
    not sure it's the right way but I got an acrylic paint pen from Elmers that I use to paint the edges. I let it dry then use a thin,wet piece of fabric on a plastic paint scraper to rub off the excess. Then I paint the actual letter
  16. Halitech
    can't find them on the site I ordered them from but you can get them from http://www.brubachersharness.ca Part # is 1028-34N and I paid 75cents each for them
  17. Halitech
    unless your imprerssions are that shallow, can't see why it would all wipe out. can you show the piece after it's been wiped off
  18. Halitech
    is your soft cloth nice and fluffy? try using paper towel, that's what I use and normally don't have an issue with it wiping out of the tool marks
  19. Halitech
    Everything looks good except 1 thing, the location of the snap strap. Strap looks like it is already loose so once the sheath itself loosens up some, that knife could and probably will jump out enough that when he goes to reach for it, instead of grabbing handle, he's grabbing blade and now has an emergency on his hands. retention strap should be as close to the blade as possible to prevent the knife from jumping out and causing injury
  20. Halitech
    all belts will start to curve and take the natural shape of your body. If you are concerned about it stretching, stitch both edges, it will help control any stretch you can certainly make bags or cases out of it (tough cell phone case anyone?) but it's going to be pretty thick. You could also do bracelets but again, will be thicker then some want.
  21. Halitech
    the one I have, if there is a difference in the spacing, it's not enough that you can tell by eye. Having said that, I prefer my chisels over the wheel unless I can't use the chisels
  22. Halitech
    overall, not bad but I did notice a few things 1. stitch line for the end of the blade over runs the stitch line for the belt hole on t he left side 2. can't tell if there is a welt around the blade to prevent the sharp edge from cutting the thread 3. no retention strap or other way of holding knife in the sheath as stu pointed out 4. Personal preference but I would have included a back guard between the right belt hole and around the top of the blade
  23. Halitech
    just a personal preference thing but on the koi long wallet, either you should have stitched all the way around or you should have stopped the stitch grove where you were going to stop stitching. By going all the way, it looks incomplete. And since you lined it (or looks that way from the image) it should have been stitched all the way and closer to the edge
  24. Halitech
    since the pricking irons are not used to actually make holes, why not use the over stitch wheels? heck of a lot cheaper
  25. Halitech
    it may look better if you skive the lining end down to where it "disappears" behind the flap and then just sew up to the end and rely on the snap to hold the end in place instead of sewing across the belt
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