sheathmaker

Having made Many, many sets of reins, my personal and experienced opinion is: >Harness leather (at least11/12 Oz.) is the BEST for reins due to the hot stuffing. >Veg tan is a very poor choice Lack of hot stuffing. much less supple >Stamping or tooling on reins (veg tan ) is an exercise in futility >Even heavily oil treated Veg tan will dry out and get stiff fairly quickly

Ben was the son of Monroe Veach as well as a personal friend of mine. Before he moved to Greencastle, In. he set up a shop in his garage here in Kerrrville,Texas where he built the first saddle that I bought from him. He and I became good friends while he was here in Kerrville. His one piece stirrup buckle was one of the best ideas and I used them exclusively when they were distributed. If I recall they were called the 'Veach Fast Buckle" and they were superior to anything else at the time such as Blevins. He, along with Don Atkinson was greatly responsible for me learning to build a saddle or two. Don Atkinson was another close friend of both Ben and me. Don was 'raised" in Monroe Veach's shop in Missouri along with Bennie. Monroe considered Don almost family. By the way Yes, that saddle looks very much like the Ben Veach style

give me a call. 830 367 5536

fredk provided the best solution to your problem. The two ply thicknesses will be even stronger and longer wearing than any single thickness collar or belt with the added benefit of the turned back prongs being hidden between the layers. 3/4 OZ. top with 3/4OZ top with 3/4OZ bottom should be about right, and would approximate your original 8/9 OZ plan.

If that is a Robert Beard Pro Series swivel knife then it most certainly will live up to the hype. I have used two of his for many years and I could not ask for better. His swivel knife blades are the best also, in my opinion.

An electric hair dryer works wonders for hardening leather. I have had one plugged in on my work bench for years. Used mostly for speedier drying but it will harden leather too.

I have no scientific proof.....but an old very experienced saddle maker (Don Atkinson) once told me "use ONLY pure Neatsfoot Oil. Neatsfoot Compound contains petroleum distillates which are not good for leather." He also used Virgin Olive Oil from time to time. I say again I have no scientific proof, but 99.99% of what he told and shared with me turned out to be true, so I going to continue using just pure Neatsfoot Oil only, along with some other top dressing products like Tan-Kote and Wyosheen

This is a perfect example of thread drift. Trade mark discussion has absolutely nothing to do with the original subject of sealing leather to prevent bleeding dye which was never answered conclusively prior to the drift.

Lining the sheath is the ONLY way to be sure of no contact or scratches. The screw on/in button studs will be much harder to get flush that the rivet style.

@fredk, Tippman Boss was my very first machine many years ago (When they were still cast iron), in fact mine was serial #0003. Mine was a great little machine and i guess they srtill are. The only problem I ever had with mine is what I call "short stroke". When sewing be very sure you take the handle ALL the way up and ALL the way down each and every stitch so the thread pick up and bobbin cycle is complete. Otherwise missed stitches, bird's nests general frustration, etc. Good Luck and enjoy your Boss!

Yes, they are still available. 830 367 5536 if you want to discuss.

Scott, i use 207 thread through a 24 needle or you can go a little heavier with 277 through a 25 needle. I go both top and bottom with each.

I got some second hand information that Bob is having some pretty serious health issues. Sometime back, Bob beat cancer back in to remission but the word i got is it is back (lymphoma). Along with me a few prayers would be in order.

it resembles oil tanned latigo.

one word, INLAY. Probably best on a knife sheath

Rossr, you have a good start. From this point you need to make some different styles like the drop loop style for bowie style knives with a single or double guard. You apparently have the "Basic Pouch Sheath" DVD and as such the sheaths you show all look pretty much the same and that is because the knives you have covered are all pretty much the same. Design your sheaths with the blade shape in mind and do some more with inlays or overlays in mind. I don't keep or sell the DVDs you mentioned, but there are three more other than the Basic Pouch DVD and they will guide you to make nearly any style sheath you need. They are available from Chris Crawford Knives. I am also available to help you via phone any time 830 367 5536) or email pfl@cebridge.net free of charge. The work you have shown is good and will only get better and better with continued practice.

Excellent advice here on the rubber finger covers. Also any fleece bearing leather is much more difficult to sew, by machine or hand. the fleece seems to "catch" the needle (and thread) often.

Hold it in a flame briefly (match or lighter), the little leather plug will crawl out like a worm.

Books and Doodle Pages are sold

Items in above post are sold. Thank you.

Items in above post are sold. Thank you.

I recently purchased these from a retiring leather craftsman. I don't use Craftaids. If you have any interest contact me at pfl@cebridge.net or 830 367 5536

I recently purchased this lot of various lace from a retiring leather craftsman. These are relatively large rolls so there is quite a bit of lace here. If you have any interest contact me at pfl@cebrige.net or 830 367 5536

I recently purchased these from a retiring leather craftsman. If you have any interest contact me at pfl@cebridge.net or 830 367 5536 for additional information.