LTC

"better" how exactly?

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=55940

http://www.armitageleather.com/shop/4583584113

Exactly correct.

If they wanted to protect their design, they should've patented it. That is the way it works in this country. I've made unique items that people have blatantly ripped off before and no one cares. I explained to everyone that I was the one that came up with a particular design for some tools and was told either get a patent or shut up. So.....all your goading of the OP probably won't do any good. People are going to copy other people's designs and sell them. It happens all the time on here and everywhere else and there's nothing anyone here can do to stop it.

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=55856

David - i sent you a reply via email.

If you're worried about that you could try using a conway type adjuster on the strap. probably less chance it would catch on it than a regular buckle.

this is why i hand sew all my stuff. i've been able to minimize feed dog marks using a trick i came up with, but my hand stitching looks good so i prefer that to machine sewing, for leather anyway.

so go back and watch again. i pick up something new every time i watch them. 1. you will have to invest time to learn. i don't know of any way to get instant knowledge. 2. yes, he has a lot of videos but like i said, he covers beginning and ending with backstitching in multiple videos...so pretty much any you pick that show him making an item (iphone slip case, wallet, messenger bag, etc.), he will demonstrate and talk about beginning and ending with backstitching. it's not that hard to find. uhhh...well his work looks a lot better than a lot of the so-called "experts" on here to me. ok, whatever. don't see the point of reinventing the wheel. the way he stitches appears just about identical to the way shown in Stohlman's hand stitching book, but you go on ahead and do it..."different"...whatever that might be. also i'm pretty sure your technique wouldn't need to change much based on what thread you use except maybe how much tension you use when tightening the stitch... ...

all of this is covered, multiple times and in great detail, in Nigel Armitage's videos on youtube. have you watched any of them yet? i don't really understand people's reluctance to watch his videos. they cover things like this in a straight-forward and easy to understand manner.

if it isn't unique enough so that people won't be confused by the name, don't use it. in other words, if there is a chance someone would confuse your product with some other company's product, i would strongly recommend not using the name. i wouldn't personally buy anything from a company called "petty leather" or whatever for the same reasons the OP stated.

what is "superfuture" and what pattern did you use for the wallet?

you'd probably get more interest if you'd sell them separately.

+1

buy the 2 tooth iron.

are you going to dye the edges and/or use edge kote or anything to finish them?

have you watched Nigel's saddle stitching videos i posted links to earlier in this thread yet? your stitching is inconsistent in some places...it looks like you are not stitching the exact same way with every stitch. that is why some stitches look a little out of place. what size awl blade are you using? all high quality, professionally made watch bands i've seen are made with smaller thread, so smaller thread and higher SPI looks better to me, but that's just personal preference.

the stuff i have doesn't seem brittle at all...pretty flexible... ok, well i will think about what everyone's said and try to figure the best route to go...thanks again...

i've ordered the books from them (leathercrafttools.com) and they are very responsive and good at communication. i wouldn't have any hesitation ordering from them again. the stohlman books are good to learn various techniques needed to build different types of cases. no one needs a fitted case for their old polaroid camera anymore, but there are lots of tips in the books to allow people to build cases of their own design using info in the books.

leathercrafttools.com has several of those same books for about half what goodsjapan is trying to get for them in case anyone is interested in getting them...no sense in paying more for them for no reason... http://www.leathercrafttools.com/book/list.jsp i have no affiliation with them.

it's the one Nigel Armitage sells plans for..small ipad messenger bag. using the "mission grain" pigskin...very thin, but feels quite tough/durable...

yeah - if i do line it, i plan on using pigskin though.

Thanks for your input, Dwight...i will keep your advice in mind. the thing is the design doesn't call for it to be stitched around the edges all the way around...so paradoxically, if i line it the way you recommended (which sounds like it would look great, btw)...there wouldn't be any stitching around the edges because i wouldn't be using it to attach anything...if that makes sense... JLSleather...how would you recommend handling the edges if i line it? turn the lining under, then stitch? or just line it up to the edges and stitch? thanks for y'alls thoughts...

well as always, I have tried in vain to search for answers to this before posting and wasn't able to find much. i'm making a bag using a nice double shoulder. the grain side looks great...but the flesh side, not so much. there's some kind of cross-hatched texturing on the flesh side and it doesn't look very good. i was thinking about lining it with pigskin, but the plans i'm using don't call for that, so I'm not sure it will look ok stitched all the way around. also, if i go ahead and line it, should i turn the edges of the lining under before gluing? this leather burnishes very nicely. should i finish the edges of the leather before gluing the liner on? for the shoulder strap, i'm considering gluing and stitching on a second length of the same leather, flesh-to-flesh because of the bad flesh side finish. this leather is about 4 - 5oz so i'm hoping it won't be too thick if i do that. i apologize if these are stupid questions. i just want to make sure i'm making this bag the best i can and want it to look good when it's finished. thanks for any guidance.