Funny games must be played with the manufacturers from time to time. I have a Seiko SK8, which I bought about 15 years ago and it is identical to a Singer 132k6 and although it is badged Seiko, many parts in it are stamped "Simanco". Perhaps Singer and Seiko may have supplied each other with bodies and parts from time to time.
Tony.
Sorry, Art, that's all she knows. She's going to look at it tonight. The person who is selling it had a k6 and a k7, which I'm familiar with and sold those 2 but had the k13 left. I'll find out more tomorrow and satisfy my curiosity.
Tony.
Is anyone here familiar with Singer K13 machines? A person rang me today and asked if they could use it to sew belts with? I've never seen one or heard of one before.
Tony.
Ed, this is what I use to melt my lead. It is a hotplate that I bought at a local tip shop about 20 years ago for 5 dollars and the pan is just an old one we used for cooking. The electric plate gives any degree of heat you want and it only takes about 10 minutes and you don't have to worry about getting gas, you just plug it into the point and away you go. I used a gas ring many years ago but this is better. This block is 1 1/2" thick and 9" wide.
You really should use pure lead as it is softer than wheel weights and projectiles. Both of these usually contain Tin and Antimony which is used to harden projectiles for shooting. I've cast hundreds of thousands of projectiles so I know this is true! Get some pure lead if you can.
Tony.
I usually cut any webbing with a knife or strap end chisel and seal them and any punched holes with this. It is a Scope Iron and when you push the black ring forward it heats up in about 5 seconds. I have a couple of them, one each end of the workshop. Plus you can use them for any electrical soldering you may need to do.
Tony.
I use an 8" ALUMINIUM frying pan and remelt whenever needed. I used one of my wife's cake tins years ago but it became soldered to the tin and couldn't get the lead out, so go aluminium.
Tony.