billybopp

When dying multiple colors, you just need to be sure that your brush is not too heavily loaded with dye when doing the edges. You can use a brush that's a bit more heavily loaded near the center part, where it will not be a problem if the dye spreads a bit. There's a youtube video from Tandyleatherfactory that goes into this technique, if you're inclined to look for it. Bill

I don't know what I'd use if I were putting together a workshop now, but I know exactly what I WISH I had kept! I had a 8foot long by about 3 foot wide, 6" deep stainless steel sink that was inherited from my great uncle's photo processing shop. It had a drain and water spigot, both of which would be awesome for any spills and cleanup. It'd just be the cat's a$$ for dying leather. But I let it go a few years ago, since I don't have the space for it where I live now. That might have been a mistake! For now, I use a glass top table with cardboard and paper for most jobs. What little soaks through cleans off of the glass easily. When I dip dye, I cut open a large plastic garbage bag and lay it out on the back porch and work on that, with paper to lay out pieces to dry. The paper and cardboard that I use is mostly recycled from packing material from stuff that I have shipped to me! Bill

There is a youtube video by Ian Atkinson that has a good side-by-side comparison of many finishes and their water resistance capability. You may want to give it a look. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zyTg_hfpNUM Hope that helps Bill

You might try DyeGone II. It does an incredible job on hands, and I've used it with some success in "lightening to nearly gone" a small dye 'oops' on veg tan. Bill

Hmmm. Those are cool! Haven't seen them before!

I was able to download the third with no sign in, etc. The first try was corrupted, but second went well. Bill

I use Fiebings spirit dyes, oil dyes, and eco-flo pro dyes. Eco flo colors seem to be a little more vibrant than fiebings, which is useful in some situations. Fiebings dark colors (browns & blacks mostly) work much better for the way that I use them, and mostly all that I use for large area coverage. I've never used Angelus, or other dyes ... but I'm sure they have their advantages in some applications too. Bill

Ray: They make dedicated foot operated setters, but from what I've seen they are pretty pricey. Pricey is probably the way to go if you intend on full-blown production line work, but for lower volume I'd give some thought to a Goldstar or something similar and adapt it to foot operated with a homemade pedal and strap of some sort to operate it. Just a thought Bill

If an overstitch wheel does it for you, this one from Tandy is really not bad. http://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/craftool-overstitch-wheel-system Bill

Oxalic acid is overkill for just cleaning before dying. It's useful if there are stains on the leather, however. Alcohol works fine for ordinary cleaning (what I use), as does Fiebings dye prep .. which appears to be mostly alcohol and has a smell of amonia as well. Unless fingerprints are pretty greasy, even alcohol isn't always needed .. but as a preventative, I give it a quick wipedown anyway. Bill

Well, I hate to say it. But I see a big problem here. Its simply too nice to fill with clubs and throw in the trunk ( or is boot down your way )!! Bill

Very nice. It would look perfectly at home on a woodland elf in Middle Earth! Bill

I began leatherworking with the rawhide mallets that I was given along with my initial tools. It worked alright, but I kept wondering what the fuss was about mauls, and decided to try one when I found the same type of metal maul from China on ebay for cheap. I tried it, and I like it. But, like CrazedLemming, I found that after awhile the poly loosened up and started to rattle. It served its purpose, which was to try out a maul and learn about using it. When I get a substitute for the Chinese maul, I may try putting some epoxy in the gaps to tighten it up so that I can keep it around. I've been eyeing up a Barry King maul for awhile now, and thinking that a tapered head might suit the way I hold my arm when tooling. I was also eyeing up a big whacker maul from Barry King too, but I'm now thinking that a 30oz Shop Fox might be just the thing for less $$. Hmmmm. Much to ponder! Bill

The background/main color is probably dyed. The lettering and designs are painted. Dyes generally do not give the bright colors seen here, and white dye is essentially useless stuff. I've done similar work, and use small, good quality paintbrushes. Fine point sharpies can work for outlining if you can find the right color. Take your time, and concentrate. It's not easy, but not necessarily as hard as you might think. Oh. Decaf coffee / soda is highly recommended. Bill

There is a new Tandy craftaid with wood and other textures. That may not be a bad place to start! Craftaids are not suitable for everything, but they are often a good starting point for learning now to do a style or technique. http://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/textures-1-craftaid Bill

A few weeks ago, I was watching a marathon rerun of "Dirty Jobs", and one of the places they filmed was a tannery that specialized in deer. Amongst the other cool machines they used there, was an antique leather measuring machine. It's got a bunch of wheels that move as the leather passes under, and stop when there isn't .. each movement ratchets up a master counter that gives the overall measurement. Pretty cool stuff to watch for those of us that are mechanical gadget junkies! There appears to be a video on Youtube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u3vHZqsY9Qg As for how to measure without one ... Yer on yer own! Bill

+1 for a long metal straight edge of some sort. Mine is a 48" aluminum rule. I found that it slid around a little bit, so bought some stick on cork backing that helps tremendously. It also helps to have a good surface on which to cut ... an HDPE cutting table would be an amazing thing to have, but I don't have the room so I use a huge self-healing cutting mat on the kitchen floor (the only place I have with a large enough open area). Even with a cork backing, it takes some care and downward pressure to keep the rule from sliding around. I use a utility knife with a new, freshly stropped blade. Try to get the fold-out type utility knife if possible, there is a little less side-to-side movement of the blades on those as opposed to the retractable blade utility knives that I used for some time. It's also a bit helpful to lay the cutting edge of the blade down, as opposed to keeping the edge more vertical. This lets the edge cut over a longer length of leather to make cutting a little easier and makes it a bit easier to cut straight as well. Bill

I made something similar using the Weaver tool using plastruct plastic sheets and chicago screws, and added a few changes and refinements as well. It works great! With the addition of a second tool it's also great for centering letter stamps top to bottom on a belt. Bill

Where poundy pound implements are concerned, don't forget to look at your local auto parts and home improvement stores! Some of the stuff they sell there is suitable for leatherwork, and in some cases exactly the same thing for less cash. One of my favorites is a dead blow hammer, which is really nice for 3D stamps and other bigger stamps. You don't get those double strikes so much with a dead blow. Double strikes might make coins more valuable, but for leather not so much. Bill

That's a bulldog style harness using horse tack hardware rather than the traditional rings. That one is made using garment leather, probably about 2-3 ounces. Both sides are folded to the centerline, glued in place, and edge stitched. I'd consider it a dress harness rather than on for er ... heavy use. The snaps just won't hold for heavy use. Bill

That quarter and magnet idea is brilliant, TT. I'm gonna have to try that! I also second your thoughts on the Tandy groover. I bought one of those after trying the other type that came as part of a kit and found it awkward. It is much more intuitive to have the cutting edge in line with the tool handle. Needless to say, whatever type you use has to be very sharp, which takes some work. Bill

Very nice. The double-row stitching looks like it was a pain to do, but it looks great. I'm thinking about making something similar, but want to use denim for the main body. Where'd you find your glove leather? Bill

I see one really big problem with all of those works. They're just to nice to actually use!! Bill

I have a really big self-healing cutting matt (3'x4') that I lay out on the kitchen floor for long cuts. It's not quite big enough, but I couldn't fit too much more in the available space! Bill

Reminds me of the old question: You go to a party, and there are two vegans in the crowd. How do you know which ones they are? THEY'LL FREAKIN' TELL YOU. Bill