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Everything posted by billybopp
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Welcome, from the other side o' the state. Bill
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There probably isn't a really good answer to this question. As the post that Thor linked shows, there is no standardization in edger sizing, made all the more complicated by the fact that there are several different styles of edgers .. and even from the same maker no size standard between those! The only general thing that is true is the bigger the number, the more leather it removes .. within the same line from the same maker. I'm lucky enough to have found one, unbranded #3 that works for most of the leather that I like to work with, but it was just plain luck to have found the right size. There is, however, at least one possible solution to the problem that is reasonably inexpensive. Jeremiah Watt offers a line of western edgers that are reasonably priced at $45US for a full set of five sizes. http://www.ranch2arena.com/hsbtqctools.html ... They are also available from weaver leather supply, although I did not see the full set on their website. They aren't pretty, with a plastic handle and interchangeable blades, but certainly affordable! Nigel Armitage recently reviewed these favorably in a video on youtube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=liakL3TyPA0 These are probably going to be my next new tool purchase .. Sometime in the not-too-distant future. When I get 'em ... I'll report back. If anybody else has them already, let us know what you find! Bill
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A Few Drawings And The Tooling
billybopp replied to Tim Schroeder's topic in Floral and Sheridan Carving
REALLY nice! I hope she gets a chance to show them off at the meeting. They will impress for certain!! -
So, would I be correct in surmising that, with counseling, training and coaxing, she has decided to contribute to the living situation by working as she's supposed to rather than being just the big, beautiful, curvy lump that she is? If so, we'd love to see some videos/pictures of her work!
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Big Daddy would love it! Well done.
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441 Clone Outside Presser Foot Screw
billybopp replied to TinkerTailor's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Yeah... it sucks when screws go missing. It's even worse when extras show up on the workbench as you're reassembling something. This guy that I used to work with LOVED to put an extra screw or two on the bench if I turned my back. He thought that was great fun. ... I learned to mentally catalog every piece before I turned away, and foiled his evil plot. Bill -
go to the hardware store, and buy a wood drawer knob. Chuck it up 'n go! Bill
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I have very few rivet problems anymore, since I bought a rivet press. Mine is from Tandy when it was on sale a year or two ago, as well as most of my dies on sale. Knowing what I know now, though, I'd probably buy a Goldstar, since the dies are much cheaper. That being said, there are still occasions when I have to set with a setter and anvil, when the rivet is too deep for the throat of the press. For those, I put the anvil on my granite slab, placed on the floor for the most solid striking surface that I can muster. A nice big dead blow hammer helps to insure that as much force as possible is transmitted to the operation. Bill
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Video: Stitch Formation On A Durkopp Adler 205-370
billybopp replied to Uwe's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
I don't even have a big sewing machine and enjoy watching these videos. Watching how things work is endlessly fascinating. Thanks for making them and posting them for us!! Bill -
Yeah... You just made me snort coffee up into my nose, Tinker. LOL!!! Thanks! Bill
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Moving The Shop Out Of The Home...
billybopp replied to cgleathercraft's topic in Leatherwork Conversation
That's only fun if you have Mog in the passenger seat tho, Tinker. Bill -
Moving The Shop Out Of The Home...
billybopp replied to cgleathercraft's topic in Leatherwork Conversation
I think I'd consider buying a used travel trailer, especially if you can arrange hookups for utilities. If the furnishings are ratty, so much the better .. it'll lower the price, and you'll want to strip them out anyway. They have at least some amount of storage built-in as well as plumbing, electricity, heat and cooling. Reinforce the floor with some thick plywood under your tooling area and possibly your sewing machine. Leave the facilities in place for travelling to shows and fairs, etc (VERY handy to have at hand). It's probably more expensive than a car trailer, but might come out better off for the stuff that's already in place and doesn't need to be purchases and installed. Just a thought Bill -
It should also be noted that stitching chisels can be quite effective when hit lightly to mark the stitch position and helping to guide and awl in much the same manner as a pricking iron .. If the situation calls for it. Bill
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- pricking irons
- stitching chisels
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Finishing The Underside Of Veg Tan Leather
billybopp replied to erniethemilk's topic in How Do I Do That?
Fiebings tan-kote and a burnishing tool do a nice job of finishing the flesh side of leather. Bill -
It's pretty much the same thing as a BIG 3D stamp. You'll need an arbor press or something like it in order to emboss the design into leather. . Bill
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Didn't see it on your site, JLS, but if you've got a Ruger Mk I, I'll take you up on your offer! I'd try making my own pattern, but have never made a holster before, so a pattern is probably a good way to start! Bill
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Great work, as always Huns! Bill
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Now I wish I had a bandsaw.
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Totally agreed on Seiwas. I have #1, #2, and #3, with #2 as my goto for 0.8mm polybraid, and usually for 1.0mm as well. The handles aren't the greatest ... I'm very tempted to cut mine apart now and fins something that's both a little sturdier and fits my hand a little better! Bill
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those are just too nice to park yer butt on 'em! Bill
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I still prefer using a wine cork. Mostly because you get to drink a bottle of wine to get one. A couple of other things that can help with getting through thick pieces in addition to sharp, your awl should be highly polished over it's entire working surface so that there is less friction against the already cut leather that it's moving through. Some folks also keep a cake of bees wax at hand and plunge the awl into it now and then to provide a little lubrication. You may not want to use that method, however, if you intend to dye after stitching since the wax might not allow dyes to penetrate. It's probably also worth noting that the shape of the awl blade could be a factor as well! Bill
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At that price, you could afford to experiment with modifying them to your needs ... Bill
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You might find it easier to set a blade, french edger, or something in a vise ... improvise something ... and move the leather against the fixed blade, rather than move the blade around the leather. Bill
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Both really nice! And they go together for a really good looking combo. Bill