billybopp

A few weeks ago, I was watching a marathon rerun of "Dirty Jobs", and one of the places they filmed was a tannery that specialized in deer. Amongst the other cool machines they used there, was an antique leather measuring machine. It's got a bunch of wheels that move as the leather passes under, and stop when there isn't .. each movement ratchets up a master counter that gives the overall measurement. Pretty cool stuff to watch for those of us that are mechanical gadget junkies! There appears to be a video on Youtube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u3vHZqsY9Qg As for how to measure without one ... Yer on yer own! Bill

+1 for a long metal straight edge of some sort. Mine is a 48" aluminum rule. I found that it slid around a little bit, so bought some stick on cork backing that helps tremendously. It also helps to have a good surface on which to cut ... an HDPE cutting table would be an amazing thing to have, but I don't have the room so I use a huge self-healing cutting mat on the kitchen floor (the only place I have with a large enough open area). Even with a cork backing, it takes some care and downward pressure to keep the rule from sliding around. I use a utility knife with a new, freshly stropped blade. Try to get the fold-out type utility knife if possible, there is a little less side-to-side movement of the blades on those as opposed to the retractable blade utility knives that I used for some time. It's also a bit helpful to lay the cutting edge of the blade down, as opposed to keeping the edge more vertical. This lets the edge cut over a longer length of leather to make cutting a little easier and makes it a bit easier to cut straight as well. Bill

I made something similar using the Weaver tool using plastruct plastic sheets and chicago screws, and added a few changes and refinements as well. It works great! With the addition of a second tool it's also great for centering letter stamps top to bottom on a belt. Bill

Where poundy pound implements are concerned, don't forget to look at your local auto parts and home improvement stores! Some of the stuff they sell there is suitable for leatherwork, and in some cases exactly the same thing for less cash. One of my favorites is a dead blow hammer, which is really nice for 3D stamps and other bigger stamps. You don't get those double strikes so much with a dead blow. Double strikes might make coins more valuable, but for leather not so much. Bill

That's a bulldog style harness using horse tack hardware rather than the traditional rings. That one is made using garment leather, probably about 2-3 ounces. Both sides are folded to the centerline, glued in place, and edge stitched. I'd consider it a dress harness rather than on for er ... heavy use. The snaps just won't hold for heavy use. Bill

That quarter and magnet idea is brilliant, TT. I'm gonna have to try that! I also second your thoughts on the Tandy groover. I bought one of those after trying the other type that came as part of a kit and found it awkward. It is much more intuitive to have the cutting edge in line with the tool handle. Needless to say, whatever type you use has to be very sharp, which takes some work. Bill

Very nice. The double-row stitching looks like it was a pain to do, but it looks great. I'm thinking about making something similar, but want to use denim for the main body. Where'd you find your glove leather? Bill

I see one really big problem with all of those works. They're just to nice to actually use!! Bill

I have a really big self-healing cutting matt (3'x4') that I lay out on the kitchen floor for long cuts. It's not quite big enough, but I couldn't fit too much more in the available space! Bill

Reminds me of the old question: You go to a party, and there are two vegans in the crowd. How do you know which ones they are? THEY'LL FREAKIN' TELL YOU. Bill

I have the Tandy press and several dies that I bought when they were on sale. I do not punch holes with it, but it did convince me that it's the way to do for setting rivets, snaps and grommets. I so wish I had seen the Goldstar first. It's much cheaper, as are the dies. Many on here have reported good luck with the Goldstar. There's a thread about it on here somewhere ... http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=51602&hl=%20goldstar%20%20press&page=1 Bill

Welcome, from the other side o' the state. Bill

There probably isn't a really good answer to this question. As the post that Thor linked shows, there is no standardization in edger sizing, made all the more complicated by the fact that there are several different styles of edgers .. and even from the same maker no size standard between those! The only general thing that is true is the bigger the number, the more leather it removes .. within the same line from the same maker. I'm lucky enough to have found one, unbranded #3 that works for most of the leather that I like to work with, but it was just plain luck to have found the right size. There is, however, at least one possible solution to the problem that is reasonably inexpensive. Jeremiah Watt offers a line of western edgers that are reasonably priced at $45US for a full set of five sizes. http://www.ranch2arena.com/hsbtqctools.html ... They are also available from weaver leather supply, although I did not see the full set on their website. They aren't pretty, with a plastic handle and interchangeable blades, but certainly affordable! Nigel Armitage recently reviewed these favorably in a video on youtube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=liakL3TyPA0 These are probably going to be my next new tool purchase .. Sometime in the not-too-distant future. When I get 'em ... I'll report back. If anybody else has them already, let us know what you find! Bill

REALLY nice! I hope she gets a chance to show them off at the meeting. They will impress for certain!!

So, would I be correct in surmising that, with counseling, training and coaxing, she has decided to contribute to the living situation by working as she's supposed to rather than being just the big, beautiful, curvy lump that she is? If so, we'd love to see some videos/pictures of her work!

Big Daddy would love it! Well done.

Yeah... it sucks when screws go missing. It's even worse when extras show up on the workbench as you're reassembling something. This guy that I used to work with LOVED to put an extra screw or two on the bench if I turned my back. He thought that was great fun. ... I learned to mentally catalog every piece before I turned away, and foiled his evil plot. Bill

go to the hardware store, and buy a wood drawer knob. Chuck it up 'n go! Bill

I have very few rivet problems anymore, since I bought a rivet press. Mine is from Tandy when it was on sale a year or two ago, as well as most of my dies on sale. Knowing what I know now, though, I'd probably buy a Goldstar, since the dies are much cheaper. That being said, there are still occasions when I have to set with a setter and anvil, when the rivet is too deep for the throat of the press. For those, I put the anvil on my granite slab, placed on the floor for the most solid striking surface that I can muster. A nice big dead blow hammer helps to insure that as much force as possible is transmitted to the operation. Bill

I don't even have a big sewing machine and enjoy watching these videos. Watching how things work is endlessly fascinating. Thanks for making them and posting them for us!! Bill

Yeah... You just made me snort coffee up into my nose, Tinker. LOL!!! Thanks! Bill

That's only fun if you have Mog in the passenger seat tho, Tinker. Bill

I think I'd consider buying a used travel trailer, especially if you can arrange hookups for utilities. If the furnishings are ratty, so much the better .. it'll lower the price, and you'll want to strip them out anyway. They have at least some amount of storage built-in as well as plumbing, electricity, heat and cooling. Reinforce the floor with some thick plywood under your tooling area and possibly your sewing machine. Leave the facilities in place for travelling to shows and fairs, etc (VERY handy to have at hand). It's probably more expensive than a car trailer, but might come out better off for the stuff that's already in place and doesn't need to be purchases and installed. Just a thought Bill

It should also be noted that stitching chisels can be quite effective when hit lightly to mark the stitch position and helping to guide and awl in much the same manner as a pricking iron .. If the situation calls for it. Bill

Fiebings tan-kote and a burnishing tool do a nice job of finishing the flesh side of leather. Bill