billybopp

I don't have any problem with leather pieces blowing around when airbrushing, but then I'm not working with very small pieces. When painting plastic model kits, however, there are frequently some very small pieces. You just have to get creative with them. A loop of masking tape can work, as can adhesive putty like used for posters (although that may stain leather), sticks shoved into a cardboard box, with a bit of glue on the tip can work to give nearly all around coverage. (take out chinese chopsticks are just about perfect for that). Hope that helps Bill

Thanks Don! That's a really great addition to the arbor. I see how it works now, and really like the drill attachment too. Very clever! Bill

I like it Tallbald. I've been using an arbor press for some of my stamping, but haven't yet modified it with a fence or drilled ram... Mostly using it for lettering stamps so far, but I'll modify it for further use soon! I'm really curious about how you rigged the return spring. I think I understand what you did there, but a picture is worth a thousand words, so, could I persuade you to show us?? Thanks! Bill

Dang, Studio-N ... Don't show those glasses to the hipsters in yer neighborhood. They'll have to have a pair! I use head worn magnifiers at times, but also find a lighted free-standing magnifier pretty useful as well( http://www.amazon.com/Carson-DeskBrite-Illuminated-Magnifier-LM-20/dp/B003EW1ZNC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1441696283&sr=8-2&keywords=hobby+magnifier ) Bill

The Seiwa are diamond shaped, straight sided, and available in three sizes. At $15 -17.50 a piece, most can afford all three. I find that size 1 and 2 are the ones I mostly use. Here's a picture including the Tandy crap awl that I started with, the three Seiwas, and another that is, I think, Osborne.

That's a slick solution to a hairy problem! Bill

That is really cool, beautiful, and yet subtly, oddly disturbing all at the same time. I like it! Now somebody just needs to do a similar one for the empire! Bill

Kevlar gloves work great. Just trust me and don't ask how I know. Bill

I bought a HF airbrush years ago with the thought, at the time, of learning to use it well. Photorealistic airbrush art was very popular at the time (mid-80s). The HF really wasn't up to the task for that, but it did fine for larger areas where precise control wasn't needed. It eventually died when the needle got dropped and the tip bent. Later on I got a couple of Paasche airbrushes for modelbuilding, and love them. They were a natural to bring over into leatherwork, and do a really great job. Agreed the single action model H is a crazy simple tool and easy to clean. The VL is a little more complex, with a little steeper learning curve (although not all THAT steep), and a little more work to clean but well worth it where the extra control is of use. I also have a couple Iwata that were given to me, but haven't used them much yet. The extra jars are a big help for keeping different colors, and come in a couple of different types. Some are just plain glass jars that you then put the airbrush siphon top onto .. and they come in all sorts of sizes. The bigger ones can be helpful if you're covering larger areas. You can also get jars with siphon tops included, which makes for faster changes. Sometimes piston air compressors will cause pulsing at the airbrush and a bit of unevenness in spraying. If you see that happening, you might be able to use a longer hose to help even that out. In my case, I had to get an air tank (from HF) and replaced the hose that comes with it using some pipe and a T fitting. That provides plenty of extra airspace and helps to even out the pulses to a more controllable level and makes for a more even spray. Hope that helps, Bill

Lookin' good! Is that an M3?? Bill

Awesome pictures! Thanks! I can almost smell the place looking at the photos. Bill

Somewhere on this site, there are tutorials on how to do that with a basketweave stamp. Here's one: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=20177 There's another more recent, but I couldn't find it on a quick search. Bill

I don't know?

Lookin' good, as always. You really do have a style that is all your own! Bill

I always add a foot or more for the tails so that you have room to turn the needles around, threading, etc. If it is a light colored thread, I add even more to give some that can be eliminated if it picks up some stray dye, dirt from hands, etc. Bill

I could be mistaken, but what I think I'm seeing is the blue leather slit down its length, with the brown leather slit at intervals like a blood/bleed knot. Look closely at the bottom picture to see what I'm talking about. It's quite possible that the blue leather is also only split at intervals, but can't tell for sure. Maybe get some cheap or scrap leather and experiment with a few knots a few different ways to see what you come up with! Bill

Talk the gun maker into introducing a hammerless model.

I think a lot of us on here have been sniffin' the same glue. It's a wonderful thing to be able to do something that you love. Good luck with your new endeavo(u)rs. Bill PS ... Hope you liked my little bit of English language humo(u)r.

I'd try the dyes and stains on some scrap. If it works, it works. The super sheen or other finishes, I'd replace. Bill

Looks like an edge beader to me. One "blade" follows down the edge of the leather, the other cuts a fine decorative line down the face of the leather. Bill

I used to buy laser transparency film by the case in my old job at a school. Just be absolutely certain that it is laser film and do NOT mix it with any other. Others can melt in the fuser section of the printer. The occasional professor that brought in his own film and threw it into one of our printers cost us a lot of money in repairs. Markers for transparency film can be had in dry erase, wet erase, and permanent varieties, as well as in various line thicknesses. If I remember correctly, the Expo Vis-A-Vis brand fine point markers are more medium thickness. Staedtler brand markers were the finest points that I came across for transparency markers. Write on film is usually considerably thinner, and would probably trace better on leather but would melt in a laser printer, and smear in an inkjet. Inkjet film will also melt in a laser printer, and has a slight tooth to hold onto the ink. Be sure you print on the right side for most inkjet films. Hope that helps Bill

Congratulations Bob! ... And thank you many times over for sharing your knowledge with us here. Bill

When I spray resolene, or any other acrylic, I clean the airbrush with a mixture of water, a little white vinegar, and a few drops of dish detergent. That's a formula that somebody here on LWN suggested and it seems to work well ( I apologize, I don't remember who) . I follow up by disassembling the airbrush and cleaning it in an ultrasonic cleaner ... The ultrasonic is probably overkill, but hey. I already had the cleaner, might as well use for something other than cleaning jewelry once a year ! Bill

I bet it makes a nice all-round table top. Totally jealous now. Then again, I doubt that HDPE would make a great kitchen floor ... which is about the only place that's got that much exposed floor here! Bill

To give you some idea of what goes into fitting ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ONZbrTW576A Needless to say, a flip-flop, sandal or shoe would likely have some measurements that would be different from these (such as placement of the toe-thong in a flip-flop), there would also be much that's alike. Bill