billybopp

Keep in mind ... The OP was presented the concept of two threads in a fabric sewing class. The intended audience is likely to have, on hand, small thread sizes rather than even what most leather sewers would consider small. It's most likely meant as a work around, but it may also present some interesting effects if the threads are different colors. As for needle sizes ..Yeah. It's not so easy since there is more than one system in place. The first number is based on the century plus old Singer system, which is more or less sequential numbers from small to large. The smallest you are likely to find is 10 or 12. The largest for my domestic machine is 19, which is about as big as domestic machines are likely to go (there may be exceptions, but I don't know). The sort of machines that leather workers are most likely to use START at around 19 and go up from there. The second number is based on a European system, which is newer dating from 1942. It is supposed to represent the thickness of the needle in hundredths of a millimeter. So, again, the bigger the number the bigger the needle. There have also been a number of other systems, but they are mostly no longer used, but there may be some exceptions. Most modern needles will have both Singer and European / Metric sizes although in which order seems to depend on the manufacturer. But it's not hard to figure out. You are not likely to find a Singer designation higher than 30, nor a European designation under 60. There are other variables, such as point type, shank type, and others .. But we'll leave those for another day. Hope that helps Bill

Looks like you and Monica are both on a "matching bag and wallet" quest, and both doing very well with it! If you were selling them, they would make for a great bundled package! It would be interesting to see how some trim made from the tan would look outside. Perhaps something like your brocade wallet ... Or a small zippered change pocket on the outside to reverse mirror what's on the bag. Just some thoughts! Good work. Bill

You might also try frisket film from an art supply store. It is meant to be used as a painting mask, and I have used it on a few leather items for airbrushing acrylics. I found for me that the light tack film did not stick well enough to my leather, and that medium tack worked fine but left a little adhesive residue that had to be cleaned off. I have also only used it with acrylic paints rather than dyes, but if you are airbrushing with dye, the result should be similar. The following guitar strap was done this way for the white line, pyramid and rainbow sections. It's not quite perfect, but it was my first try at this sort of thing. The name and surround were done with Grafix white mask liquid frisket .. AKA liquid latex.

I agree with Michelle, Tiger thread is about the nicest stuff I've used, but it is expensive, so I keep limited sizes and colors. For more variety, I've been using this stuff from China on ebay ... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Waxed-Leather-Sewing-Thread-for-Leather-Hand-Stitching-200-Yards-20-Colors-/151170709384?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item233279f788 It is not as nice as Tiger, but it is less expensive. Spools are smaller than Tiger, and price / length is around half. It's not as heavily waxed as Tiger, which can also look better in some applications. And it's inexpensive enough to keep several colors around. Bill

The Seiwa awls have a rather short tip and the blade is then dead straight from there on back. I would use the words 'blunt tip', but that's not quite right. The tip is sharp enough to go to the bone in a finger (ask me how I know). Think something more like a rounded chisel tip and straight blade. If my camera would cooperate, I'd take some pictures to show you, but it refuses to focus in macro mode for some reason. Pyramid tip might give the right visual for how the Seiwa awls are made! Bill

Thanks for the enlightenment!! I would simply have referred to all three above as rolled .. and perhaps that is part of the reason why they are all sold that way. Lay people are certainly not likely to know the difference if many or most leatherworkers do not! Q: What sort of core would you find in a proper rolled piece core? . And if anybody feels so inclined and happens to be making a proper rolled leather piece, take pics and post a tutorial? I'm really curious now! Thanks Bill

You MIGHT have a little luck if you "super case" this leather. If you are doing as papaw suggested, I call that "surface casing" .. and it works perfectly fine for most leathers, whether carving or stamping. Occasionally, however, when I want my cuts to be deeper than normal, or work with difficult leather I soak the leather pretty thoroughly, or "super case" as I call it. Roll up the belt blank, and put it in a container of water for a few minutes until the leather is saturated. Hang the leather up to partially dry. When it has dried, but is still perhaps a little wetter than normal make your cuts. After the cuts are made, let it dry further to more "normal" cased state to make any stamped impressions. It might work for you. It might not. But I think it may be worth a try. Hope that works! Bill

There is a good dog collar video on Youtube, in several parts, by Bruce Cheaney .. and just about any video on belt making will be 90% or so applicable to collars as well. Look for Youtube videos by Ian Atkinson and Nigel Armitage for those, and there are a bunch of others as well if you search. There are also books on belts to be found, with http://www.leathercraftlibrary.com/default.aspx? being one source. Hope that helps Bill

While not exactly collectible, I've always been fond of airplanes and aerospace, particularly from the 1930's to the 1960's. It was a period of amazing change at an amazing pace. I find myself particularly fascinated by radial engines, so I've been collecting some books on the subject, including a number of old operation, maintenance and overhaul manuals mostly dating from the 1930's and 1940's. I think the gems in the collection are a Wright Cyclone maintenance and overhaul manual that when opened SMELL of an aviation shop. There's nothing like the smell of old grease, oil and avgas ... LOL I've also managed to come across some other relatively rare (declassified) manuals, including a B-36 flight manual and some Atlas missile books! Bill

As some have mentioned, a wine bottle cork is a really great backer for leather when using an awl, and especially useful when you can't quite get your fingers placed right to safely use them. An added bonus is that drinking the wine to get the corks is quite enjoyable. A further added benefit is that you usually have a few bottles of wine around so that you can get replacement corks when you need them. A still further added benefit is that you have bottles of wine around to dull the pain when you get forgetful, don't use the cork and pierce a finger anyway. And if you don't have antibiotic cream around? ... Yup. More wine!! It's a great system, really. Bill

I don't pad my guitar straps, but I do line with flesh-side-out deer, which is VERY soft and comfy. Flesh side out also provides a little bit of extra friction to limit how much the strap slips. Bill

ttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dopp_kit .... Lots of "didn't know THAT" in this wiki entry. Bill

Good lookin' pieces. The stitching looks really good. You did use a pricking iron from both sides on those, didn't you? Bill

It's really hard to say exactly, but there are a few clues ... I'm guessing it's about 1/2" wide, so too wide to be readily available as manufactured lace, and probably cut by the maker from a larger leather piece. The lighter edges look to be natural, and not dyed nor chrome-tanned blue. Those would probably indicate that it is veg-tanned leather that is surface dyed by some method. It also looks relatively thin, so I'd guess 2/3 or 3/4 ounce vegetable tanned leather with a medium to dark brown dye ... probably sprayed on, but possibly hand-dyed. The width and edges look reasonably smooth and consistent, so it's a good guess that it was cut with a strap cutter. Hope that helps Bill

I suspect that you glued the liner on with both pieces lying flat ... That's probably why it is bunching up a bit when curved over. Try gluing up over something roundish, about the same diameter as the final position. I think that will help. I do like the magnet idea, but with that leather and the distressed look I really like the stud that you are using. Helps to give the whole piece the appearance of being 100 years old. Bill

Tandy's silver pen is on sale for $2.59US. Not sure what that would be, CDN, nor what shipping might cost. Bill

I love the Whovian stamp .. And I recognize the bird, but can't place it. "Starship Troopers", maybe? Bill

It'll be fun watching who and how many steal that one!

Thanks for both versions of this template! The printer size is very helpful, since I don't have to go find a place to print 'em, and also don't have to pay 'em to do so!! Bill

It's kinda ingenious what stuff folks will incorporate into their leather designs, eh? Bill

Arbor presses are great, I have one and love it. Sounds like a C clamp would work pretty nicely too. There are times when neither of those would do the trick, tho ... Like when you need to stamp far from an edge. The best way I've found for that is one of the heavy duty stamp handles for those stamps that will take them ... In combination with a dead blow hammer, which helps to prevent bouncing and double-images. Hope that helps Bill

Tandy's is on sale for about half price .... Which is still pretty pricey, and it will only do strap goods. But if that's what you want.... It might do. Bill

That is a really cool idea. All look good, but I really like the one with the red thread "lacing" ... It reminds me of a baseball, and totally fits with the idea! Bill

Just a thought ... the OP might want to let us know what size the largest piece of scrip currency is in Russia. We might find it with a google search ... Or maybe not. It's not the same everyplace. (nor for that matter has it always been the same size in the US.) Bill

Looks really nice! This is something I've been experimenting with myself, recently. My carving doesn't look that nice, though. I'm also working on figuring out what looks good for a frame, and one of the better looking options is a frame of driftwood. It just sort of goes with the leather. I'm also about to begin some experiments with a store-bought wood frame that I will cover with garment leather. The pH of the leather would probably quickly damage the picture, not to mention what dyes and such might do. So, I've tried gluing some tracing film to the back of the leather so that it can be used directly on top of the picture with no glass between ... Just the way a framer would use a mat. As a matter of fact, I've also experimented with using a mat cutter with the leather and it seems to work pretty nicely! Just some ideas... Bill