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billybopp

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Everything posted by billybopp

  1. ROFL .. They sell FRICKING IRONS. You can find a Korean Won converter here: http://coinmill.com/KRW_calculator.html Google Chrome has a translation feature, and I think some other browsers do as well. It may be helpful, but don't expect TOO much of them. Hope that helps Bill
  2. I know a few folks that would go nuts for that. Let me know if you ever decide to sell embossing rolls. I could use one like this, and have a few other ideas ..... Bill
  3. Thanks! I like it ... Gotta make one and try it out.
  4. That's a big briefcase! Looks really nice, and very well made. It's a great color combination. I always wonder on bags with straps that go all the way around, did you do anything special to protect them from wear when the bag is resting on the straps? And ... Just as something fun to think about ... If you were to do one again, what would you do differently? Bill
  5. Ian Atkinson http://www.youtube.com/user/satansbarber/videos Nigel Armitage http://www.youtube.com/user/Nordicbadger/videos Tandy Leather Factory http://www.youtube.com/user/TandyLeatherFactory/videos .. They are trying to sell you their stuff, but the techniques are mostly sound. Springfield Leather http://www.youtube.com/user/SpringfieldLeatherCo/videos ... Also trying to sell you some of their stuff, but still good info. Bruce Cheaney http://www.youtube.com/user/cheaneysaddles/videos Eugene Pik http://www.youtube.com/user/eugenepik/videos Chief31794 http://www.youtube.com/user/Chief31794/videos I tried to include a variety of styles, and folks with multiple videos in the above. There are also tons of other videos to be found on youtube and vimeo. Just search and you shall find. Do a search on Hermes bag making, or any other high end bag maker and you'll find tons of videos. Have fun! Bill
  6. WOW! That is a great seat for a great bike. They are award winners. Bill
  7. If you need white leather ... buy it pre-dyed white, or plan on painting. White leather dye is just about impossible to use. I found out the hard way. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=56722&hl=%2Bwhite+%2Bdye Hope that helps Bill
  8. Oh ... And very well done. It's a nice classy look and beautifully made. Bill
  9. I think the confusion on the hardware may be due to the color balance in the first picture. It's off toward yellow and hence makes the hardware look more like brass than chrome/nickel. Bill
  10. Well done, Chief! Thank you. Bill
  11. Leatherworking is much like any other talent. Some people have such talent that they need little work to achieve greatness. Others achieve greatness, but with much more practice and work. Persistence is key. Most of us fall somewhere in that second group. Keep at it and you'll do well!! Bill
  12. That could be a problem. After all, nobody likes skunk weed!!
  13. That's a whole lot o' sewing machines in a compact space!! Well done.
  14. Assuming that you have a picture on your computer, click "more reply options". It will bring up an expanded version of the text box and an attach files button at the bottom. That will bring up a dialog box that lets you choose the picture to upload. Alternately, if you find a picture on the boot maker's website, or some other, you can place a link by clicking the link tool in the toolbar above the reply textbox. You just copy the web address and then paste it into the URL box that comes up. "Add reply" then posts your message. Hope that helps! Bill
  15. I think I understand what you mean by feathering ... Something like you'd get with pinking shears? A picture of your boots would help others understand what you're looking for. Bill
  16. That's some kind o' PINK .. It's blinding. LOL. I hope that if you decide to restore it you find some way to duplicate the decal for it. That's just cool!! Bill
  17. I have a few strips of ~3/8" x3/8" wood with scrap leather strips and some moderately heavy spring clamps. Bill
  18. If the leather is thin enough ( about the range you're looking at) I don't use an edger. It's just too thin. I damp the edge, burnish, a little saddle soap and burnish some more. You just have to be careful to not put too much pressure when burnishing so that the edge doesn't completely roll down. That's usually enough to make it nice. Hope that helps Bill
  19. A few pictures might be helpful .... And what SPI are the markers? Bill
  20. The smaller the wheel, the slower the contact area with the leather for any given motor speed. Looking at what the folks that are selling these use (Weaver, Tippmann, and ebay, etc) they all look to be about 2" or so. I'd think that's where I'd start. ( I only chose 4" & 8" in the above post to show the numbers ... Just an example). Bill
  21. I have a burnisher with a curved but fine point on the end. You have to burnish from front and back separately rather than both at the same time, but it works. Bill
  22. ... I knew there would be a heated tool and a turned edge somewhere in that mass of guesswork.
  23. I use an Olfa circle cutter if the leather isn't over 8ish ounces. If I can't have a pin-prick hole in the center for some reason, I put a piece of scrap leather there to stick the center pivot point needle (or whatever you call it) into. They come in about three or four sizes .. I think I've got the smallest one that maxes out around 3 or 4 inches. Hope that helps Bill
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