billybopp

I have absolutely no complaints whatsoever with my goodsjapan awls. They came sharp, and with a little work are REALLY sharp with a nice polish and seem to stay that way. I have recently used one of them to go through 3 layers of 10oz veg tan with surprisingly little effort. Bill

Some things just do not translate well from UK English to American English. My closest childhood friend's grandmother was from England, and moved to the US after retiring to live with the family. She liked to help out with the cleaning, cooking and grocery shopping as much as she could (she introduced me to Yorkshire Pudding .. YUMMMM). So, one day she went to the supermarket to buy groceries. This grocery store had scratch off tickets for discounts, freebies, etc. She had never seen such before in England, and asked the cashier about it, and was told to use a coin or something to rub off the paint from the ticket to see her prize. She promptly turned to the 16 year old bag boy and asked him "Do you have a rubber?" Needless to say, the boy turned the most amazing shade or red, and she was totally confused. England and America are indeed two nations divided by a common language. Bill

I have several Black River templates and tools, and love them. Joyce is great to work with. She has, however been swamped with orders lately and fell a little behind. Hopefully she'll be caught up again soon and help us all out!! Bill

Monica! Your mandolin/violin design is anything but rough or rustic! It's a really great idea and beautiful design. Very slight changes would take it to a very high level indeed. Joe may be talking about the loop on the front of the bag that the strap goes through to hold down the flap. Think something like a beltloop that is sewn from inside the loop. There are some videos on youtube to give you an idea of how to sew one in place, although I can't find one at the moment. You could also rivet or chicago screw it in place if it's a full loop. The back pocket stitching does not look bad as is, but you could also make it full-width and incorporate the sides in with the gusset seam, although that would slightly thicken that edge. The bottom of the pocket could still be stitched across the bottom, where it would be a less noticeable. With a bit of skiving of gusset, back and pocket leather it may not thicken the seam too much. It could be worth a try! Another interesting idea that just came to me ... To add a touch of whimsy, you might be able to find a tuning nut to use in place of the sam brown stud. i'm not sure if they are available anywhere, and you'd have to adjust the size of the hole in the strap, but it might be cool! It's a great design as is, however! Hope that helps! Bill PS My niece plays violin .. Would you be offended if I were to make something for her?

Blue Duck, check out this recent thread ... http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=56437&hl=vector#entry362026

It looks really nice, but yeah .. I can see how it might be a pain to sew like that. Bill

That's a pretty good list to start out with, but I'd make a few changes if I were starting over again. 1. Wing Dividers: Really handy. Don't go cheap, they need to be pretty sturdy. Even better, they're useful for 101 things around the house. Strap end punch: Expensive, hard to find good quality, and a little harder to use than they seem! Skip this one early on, and hand cut your strap ends with a sharp knife and a circle guide of some sort ( a coin, a jar lid, or even a can depending on size). Buy a strap punch later when you get a better feel for strap sized that you like, etc. When you do buy, consider vintage tools. They are usually better quality. Adjustable V-gouge: Useful is you need to make relatively acute corners with a single piece of leather. Otherwise, not quite so much. Depending on the designs you have in mind, you might hold off on this one. Not insanely expensive, in any case. (I bought one early on and didn't use it for years.) Skiver: Essential tool. You might start with a "safety beveler". Cheap at $5. Be sure to get a package or two of extra blades (probably more expensive than the knife!). A solid skiver knife will be pretty pricey, and you'll have to have some skills to keep it sharp. Strap Cutter: Essential tool: Wooden ones are not overly expensive, and very useful. See if you can find "the original strap cutter", as opposed to a knock off. I have a knock off, and it's OK, but folks that have used both say there is a difference. Be sure to get extra blades, or some on here have suggested that the above-mentioned skiver blades work better than the purpose blades. Others have mention Schick Injector razor blades as cheaper and better, if you can find them. There are also a few useful modifications that can be made to wooden strap cutters. Poke around on here and you'll find them. Head knife: I'd go a different route to start. In order to get a good head knife, you will have to spend at least $100. Vintage is usually better than new. You also have to have some sharpening skills with these. Instead, I'd buy a decent utility knife such as Stanley, and good blades. Somebody on here recommended Irwin bi-metal blades recently, so that might be worth a go. Add one or two hobby knives, such as x-acto #1 and #2 with their associated blades and you're good to go. Some people really like the rotary cutters, and they work great on straight lines, but I find them hard to get around curves. Burnishing bit: Useful tool, but ... I'd suggest getting a hand burnisher to begin and learn with, and add the power burinsher later.. A Dremel with a burnisher can pretty quickly over do the job. If you get a feel for how it should be by hand first, you then know what to look for when you do switch. Either way, get a hand burnisher. They have their uses even if you power burnish. Stitching groover: Useful tool. Get one something like Tandy's Pro stitching groover, It has changeable bits so that it can cut a groove, or a make a crease. I also find it easier to use since the pressure on the "blade" is straight down from your hand, rather than off to the side as with other groovers. I prefer a crease over a groove to keep stitch lines straight in most of the things I make. Cutting board: Essential. The self healing mats are nice, but a regular ol' plastic kitchen cutting board will work just fine. It's what I used for years. Wal-mar, k-mark, any kitchen store .. Within the limits of your work space, bigger is better. You'll have to re-position things less with a bigger board. Overstitch wheel: Not really necessary IF you will be using pricking irons. Tandy has one three wheels of differing stitch length (5, 6, and 7 SPI, I think). It might be better to start here rather than with pricking irons (they are pretty pricey). Other, better wheels are available in other sizes as well, but usually they are a one-size tool. Diamond Awl: Essential for stitching. Width of the blade, length of the blade, profile of the blade, and size and shape of the handle are all dependent on what you are doing and personal preference. It ain't an easy equation. If you really want to sew at 4spi, you'll be using thick thread, and will want a wider blade. For handbags, you probably will not go through terribly thick leather, so a shorter blade will do .. I find shorter blades a little easier to work with since a small movement of the hand makes a small movement at the blade tip. Longer blade, more movement. I also prefer a blade with straight sides or a very mild taper. You want the holes on both sides of the leather to be close to the same size. Pricking Iron: Quite useful, but not essential if you use the overstitch wheel. I think I'd hold off on these until you are certain what stitch lengths you like to use. If you look back at some of the threads on here for the last couple of months, you'll find that pricking irons has been a hot topic with some pretty prickly debate (sorry for the bad pun). It's a little too much to go into here and now. ADDED TOOLS: Straight edge: Steel or aluminum. Cork or rubber backed. One short ( 12 - 16" or so ). One long (36" or more). And possibly one very short such as a pocket ruler. Sandpaper: Various grits. Anything finer than 300 or 400 is probably wasted effort on leather. Edger: Possibly a couple of different sizes, depending on how thick the leather is. Takes off the corner of a piece of leather to help give it a better look and feel. Used before burnishing, which completes the job. Sharpening stones: ( and associated oil, etc). Various grades to sharpen tools initially, finer grades to keep them sharp when dulled. Strop board and grit: You can make a decent strop from a piece of leather and wood, or you can buy them. Either way is good. I have some of both. Most people seem to go with "Green" (relatively fine) compound to strop their tools. I have a some coarser grit compounds as well, but green is used the most. Hammers: A hammer in the 16-24 ounce range is useful for a number of things. Setting rivets and snaps, tapping glued pieces, tapping down stitches. I'd start with a rawhide hammer. It will work passably for most things, at least for awhile. A dead-blow hammer is nice for setting rivets and snaps, but a little much for may other uses. Pliers: A set of small smooth jawed pliers can be useful for a number or things, but especially for sewing. Once in awhile you just can't get enough grip to pull a needle through. Pliers such as these will help with that and not mar the surface of the needle. *note .. If that happens more than once in awhile, thread/needle is too big for the hole ... Or vice versa! I'm sure I've forgotten something, but darn if I can remember what it is. Arbor Press: I'd skip it to start with. NOT for use with pricking irons. I'd hand-set rivets for at least a little while, and then think about a proper rivet setter rather than an arbor press. Check out this thread http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=51602&hl= Arbor presses have their uses, and if you had one around already, or had lots of use for stamping letters ( and other things that arbors are good at) it would be worth modifying. Otherwise, a rivet setter will work better. Thread: I like the poly woven thread, such as Tiger. I've used both Tiger and Chinese non-brand versions. Tiger is nicer to use, but the other stuff is good too. 1mm is that thickest available that I'm aware of, but I haven't really looked for anything thicker than that. Opinions vary widely about thread, and much of it personal preference and the look that you want to go for in your work. I would suggest that Tiger is the nicest option for you as you learn to hand stitch, despite it's price at something like $45 a roll. It can be had in smaller amounts from various places for less overall cost, although at higher cost per foot. Needles: Saddler's needles, or harness needles. Many have recommended John James brand, although there is some confusion as to size vs. their numbering system. I have not major complaints with Tandy's needles. Rivets: I like double-capped rivets as opposed to the hollow backed "rapid rivets". Rapid rivets have a pretty sharp edge at the back of the post part which can cut into the leather with use. Rapid rivets ARE useful if you will be gluing a liner or something over the back since they don't create a bump. Double caps are better about not cutting into leather, are prettier, and seem a bit stronger to boot. Both types set about the same way. There are other options such as copper rivets (VERY strong, not so pretty) and Chicago screws ( useful for a number or things and reasons, but a little clunky). Tool sources: For a middle-of the road approach to tools, I'm happy with the Seiwa awls and irons I got at http://www.goodsjapan.jp/ ... just be sure to pay for their expedited shipping or be prepared to wait. Others have suggested http://www.leathercrafttools.com/ for many of the same Japanese tools at less cost, but I can't tell you anything more about that website. Check the sponsor websites, listed in the banner ads at the top of the webpages. They all have various tools of various quality and price levels. Enjoy! Bill

Looks really great! They'll love 'em! Bill

I don't know about other types of leather, but on plain ol' veg tan it will certainly burn if too hot, then burnish/glaze if a little cooler. So it has to be "just right". Next time I try it, I'll break out my infrared thermometer and see if I can give you an actual temperature. Bill

BTW .. Nice knife! Bill

Welcome home Walter! Thank you, and all the others for posting pictures and contributing to this thread. It's totally fascinating. I love seeing these old tools that were crafted with such wonderful artistry. I have to confess, that I occasionally take a look at Bruce Johnson's web site to see what he has on offer, and usually find myself drooling just a little bit. Love it! I especially want to thank you for the picture, in the original post, of the thread cage. It brought back some great memories. My great grandfather was a farmer and had a few of these in his house and his barn. I remember the one in the barn had twine in it that he used all the time. Your picture even brought back memories of the earthy smells in the barn, and of the smell and taste of fresh fried chicken with string beans and corn on the cob that he and I had just picked hours before. He was a kind soul, and wasn't even angry when my little sister half emptied the cage of twine onto the floor. He just laughed because she found it fascinating. I live in a big city now, so I suppose it's true that "you can take the boy out of the country, but can't completely take the country out of the boy". Thanks for the memory! Bill

Not bad! Lacing takes a bit of practice to get it right. Keeping even tension on the laces is pretty important. I can't tell what you are using, but good lace gives a better result and makes the job easier. Calf and kangaroo are often recommended lace materials. One of the leatherworker.net members has done a good video on mexican round braid lacing that is pretty good stuff, and makes a very attractive edge. Take a look at it if you have the time! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ikoKfgm2SMw Hope that helps Bill

A question and an idea: Q: To those that use beeswax, do you soften it somehow before using it to burnish, or just rub it along the edge. Some of the beeswax that I have is pretty hard stuff. It works OK on thread, but precious little seems to transfer to the edge when I try to use it for burnishing. Should I perhaps heat it a little, or would it be better to melt some with oil so that sets up a little softer? Idea: I've been contemplating using a longish, thinish piece of wood with a U groove routed into it and a piece of canvas glued there. Something like a shaped sanding block. It seems that might help avoid the "dips" in the edge that sometimes occur with a round burnisher. I might even go so far as to channel all four sides to use with different dye colors to help avoid, for lack of a better phrase, "cross-contamination of color". It could also be possible to make different channel sizes and shapes if one had different size router bits, or whatever tools used. It might work as well with some sandpaper glued in for the initial sanding and shaping. Thoughts?? Bill

No doubt, if you do any appreciable number of rivets or snaps one o' these gadgets is money well spent. I figure mine may have paid for itself in messed up rivets and snaps .. Even more in terms of the time saved!! Bill

Thanks Jim I know it can be quite a challenge putting the things that you do on a project or any procedure into words, but it's also extremely helpful. Well done! Bill

Good questions all! 1. Chrome tanned leathers are most always pre-colored(drum dyed), but may be a bit too floppy for what you want to do. Veg tan tooling leather would work just fine, but you'll most likely want to dye it which is a bit of extra work, and CAN be difficult to get right on bigger pieces of leather, particularly if you have a little experience. That said, you can also get exactly the color that you want that way. If you want natural leather finish, this is the way to go. Veg tan can also be drum dyed, along with other treatments. I'm thinking of making a bag, and will probably use English Bridle leather in about the 6oz range. There are a ton of options! Take a look here for some options with a pretty good explanation of what they are: http://www.wickett-craig.com/ . Also, be sure to look at the colors that they have available. Most seem to have good luck buying from them, but there are also other places to buy more or less the same leathers. Other may also have different colors. 2. As stated above, 6oz seems about right for such a bag to me. But, if you line it you may want to go a little thinner. How thin depends on the lining! If you live near a vendor such as Tandy, go in and take a look and feel of their leathers. Even if you don't buy from them, it will give you some ideas. 3. For a heavier use bag, I'm not sure I'd line it, and leave it natural color if it's un-dyed veg-tan, or a lighter drum dyed leather. Lining is good too, and the options are about endless. I think I'd go for pig in, as you like, a lighter color. The only potential problem is that lining pig tends to be pretty thin. It's also pretty strong, tho ... So .. sort of of two minds about that. Natural veg tan is also an option in say 3/4oz. Oiled and finished with whatever works for you prefer .. From carnauba cream to tan kote to resolene to oil and wax. Again, endless options. Deer/elk/moose is probably not a good choice for a bag or bag lining. It's terribly "spongy" and a bit stretchy. However, if you wanted to line a shoulder strap with it, you can't find anything more comfy! 4. Double should would work OK for what you want, but might be hard to get the piece sizes that you want, depending on the size of the bag that you are making! Back would be the better choice for size, and may be slightly stronger stuff. The only part of the beast to avoid is the belly, which can be too stretchy. Check out the messenger bag making video by Nigel Armitage on Youtube. It's excellent. He will also sell you the pattern, which can be modified to suit your needs with relative ease. Or, if you're good at back-engineering things, check out the video and make your own similar pattern. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nEwbvfsZfBw I'm currently working on one of the above-mentioned bags. I'll be using 6/7oz veg tan ... Because it's what I have on-hand! Mine won't be lined, and I'll finish it with a sort of sunburst dye job. I can't quite decide on what finish to put atop that. I want it to be reasonably water resistant, but not quite as shiny as resolene. As an added challenge, I thinking of modifying it a little and using no metal hardware. Just leather, and associated dyes, etc. and thread. Should be fun! Hope that helps Bill

That's really awesome. I REALLY love the creativity that folks on here show us in making and modifying tools. Now I wonder if IKEA sells some sort of bench that could turn your invention into a full-blown horse!? Bill

That's a really cool idea! Well done. Bill

Grandma is gonna be happy! It looks great, and I would never have thought to use a mystery braid for a strap. I like it! The only thing I think I would have changed would be to edge paint the braid edges, probably before braiding. That said, it's a small thing. I also would probably have used a D or triangle rather than a square for the strap to chain attachment to keep it from sliding around. The stitching distance from the edge varies a little bit where the bottom attaches to the sides, but I can certainly understand why that happens. You can't really use an edge guide the way that those pieces have to be sewn. I can't maintain a straight line to save my life without an edge guide. It's still pretty darn good, tho! Hope that helps Bill

Gotcha Bruce. Thanks! I have seen something like that on ebay on occasion, but never quite knew what I was seeing. Bill

Beautiful work. Congratulations, you deserve your wins! Bill

According to my own personal art teacher, cem is right. It's called water marbling or sometimes ebru, and is often found on old book cover paper. The technique is known to exist back as far as the eighth century. It's done on paper by mixing a form of seaweed to make a gel and then placing a water based dye on the surface and manipulating it in various ways. It is currently in popular use in painting fingernails. I'm going to try this with leather and water-based dyes sometime soon!! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paper_marbling People of a certain age will appreciate the following video for the memories this sort of film brings back in addition to the content: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vyga8VMWXKg Hope that helps. Bill

I modified my strap cutter this way yesterday, and LOVE IT. I cut a piece of cardboard bag liner about 1/4" wide and glue it in. Today, I was able to cut a good number of 4" wide straps from 3/4oz leather with far less effort than ever before. In the past, I've had problems with the cutter wandering off-course. No more! Thanks for the suggestion! It really helped. Bill

I have to agree with all of the above, and add my thanks for the many folks on here that give advice and opinions. It is invaluable, and one of the best learning sources imaginable. Even though opinions sometimes differ, there is always something to be learned from them. The sense of humor that often comes with these posts is quite appreciated too. It reminds us that life is short, and nobody gets out of it alive so we should enjoy it as much as we can. It's probably not said often enough, but ... THANK YOU TO YOU ALL. Bill

I'm not quite sure what you're talking about ... maybe others don't as well? A picture of something like it might help. Bill