billybopp

Just my opinion, but the premium price difference for less than 5 hides is pretty steep. I don't mind paying a bit more for ordering in small quantity, but 50% or so is asking a lot. Not really thrilled at the prospect of waiting two weeks for something that is IN stock! Bill

... Now, if only they made such a nifty device for all of the other blades we use!!

When I used to fix mainframe computers for a living, we had a name for following the worn screws, marks, cleared dust and such. But it's mixed company on here, so I won't repeat it. It is a great way to find some of a machine's history, tho. Bill

I bought one o' these to help eliminate drips from the brush shaft ... it works great, but be sure to rub a little vaseline inside the cap threads to prevent them getting cemented in place! http://springfieldleather.com/16721/Jar%2CPlastic%2CCement%2C32oz/ Solder flux brushes are also excellent for use with contact cement, and they're inexpensive and disposable! ( you can buy 100 for about $20 if you shop ) Nuttish has the right idea too .. blue tape works great for masking, but do be careful about what type you use. Not all of them have the same amount of tack for the adhesive .. you want very low tack for the grain side, and even then do not leave it on longer than necessary. Not necessarily part of the original post problem ... but cool in any case ... If you need to contact cement a large area, or long line ... glue up both parts, twice if necessary, let them get tacky and then put a big piece of thickish plastic or a piece of waxed paper between the parts and slowly pull it out as you align the pieces! Bill

unicornleather ... That sounds like a useful chart!

I don't know what it is, but I like it. Nice work! Bill

If you can't find an exact match, thick leather can work pretty well. I've used that trick with odd-shaped studs and stuff in the past. Bill

Remember the Alamo. Forget the movie. Other than the nice leathers that a few characters were wearing.

It occurs to me that there might be so few resources about leather bags because there are a TON of books about bags in general, some of which include leather. The design techniques for leather are not so different from fabric, and construction techniques using garment and other thin leathers are not so different. It's only when you start looking at certain types of leather and certain styles of bag/case that things start getting different. It may be worth looking at some of THOSE resources! Just a thought ... Bill

I don't know about you guys, but my belts have all been shrinking steadily since I was in my mid 20's.

Agreed with Glendon on the books, and the videos. I'd add Arthur Porter to the youtube list, specifically for bag making. Bill

It looks good to me. Sometimes simple is best! Bill

The first one or two are hardest. Keep notes about how you did things, and figure out what you would do differently next time .. both in terms of design and process. You may find it helpful to make a paper or cardboard mockup before you begin cutting leather. Before long, you'll figure out how to change the design to suit your own needs and style. After that, you may even want to try your own design! Bill

The handles look a little shorter than some, but that's not terribly important to their function so long as they are long enough that you don't whack your fingers while holding them. Different types do vary a bit in spacing between tines, width of tines and depth of tines, but that would be more of a problem if too big than too small when you are using an awl. Ummmm.... What kind (size) of awl are you using? Bill

I have a round knife, but haven't used it too much yet .. for cutting nor skiving. It seems to do OK for both jobs, but I have a hard time controlling it which probably means nothing more than I need to practice. I've also been eyeing up Lisa Sorrell's skiving knives. They aren't fancy, but I'd bet they're well made and of good metal. Now .. Wonder if they work OK with cheese?? Bill

I have made a few messenger bags similar to this ... Using Nigel Armitage's design as a starting point and then modifying it as needed. For mine, I used 7oz for the front, back, and straps and then 4oz for the one-piece gusset. I wanted the bag to be overall a little stiffer than it would have been with all 4oz, but 7oz proved to be a bit much for me to try to work around the corners. One o' these days I'll upload pictures of these. Hope that helps

Check out this thread ... http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=60483 The answers that you seek may be there. Bill

Hmmm. I'm thinking that the cheese knives sound like a gouda idea! And if we combine that with the wine that we drink in order to use the corks as awl backers, we're pretty darn close to having a party! ( but if any o' the folks that live in the big square states offer to bring cow chips to the party, do NOT partake. They are NOT really what we out east call chips and most certainly nothing like English chips ) Bill

From http://brucejohnsonleather.com/links-resources/leather-tool-makers-history/ : HF Osborne - started in the tool business with his brother CS Osborne. In 1877 or so he left and established his own company. In 1905 he sold his business to CS Osborne.

BTW .. The single line creasers are really groovy tools. I have a couple and love 'em. Bill

Looks great to me!

Personally ... I like this style in fox. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YNHXFviVb8I

It might be helpful to find some pics of what you want to achieve and post them on here. It would be much easier to help you then. Bill

OOHHHH.... Do the Rush 2112 cover!!

I love the mask. That's awesome! But white leather dye totally sucks ... Worse than useless. That is the path to heartbreak and pain. I have tried a few types and found nothing but disappointment. If you need white, go with white acrylic paint. Bill