billybopp

http://www.fiebing.com/tips/color-charts-dyes-stains-antiques-2/ Fiebings has a color chart for their colors to at least get you pointed in the right direction. Note that those colors are only a rough guide, however. If you use most dyes undiluted, your result will almost certainly be darker than the chart. I dilute these dyes about 50/50 with dye reducer or denatured alcohol. Also, the color of the leather to begin with will have an effect, as will neatsfoot oil and other materials. It's always best to try the color on a piece of scrap that is similar to your work piece. Hope that helps Bill

Truly beautiful work!

Those are awlesome. The deer antler handle really does look like it's comfy to use. Well done. Bill

Can't help you too much here, Raven, but I did notice a product and tech support phone number on the link you provided. It's odd that any product has problems across its own product line. I would have expected the Tandy gold to give you more trouble. I'd give 'em a call!! Bill

I've had the same problem on occasion. Since I don't have a sander, that's not the problem in my case. It seems that a small amount of dye ends up on the burnishing tools, which can then transfer off onto a lighter colored piece (I'm sure it happens from light to dark as well, but just isn't noticeable). I have since started cleaning my burnishers with a little alcohol on a paper towel or rage and some vigorous rubbing before switching to a different colored piece. The lighter the color, the more work needed to clean up the burnisher. Needless to say, white is a real bitch and takes a LOT of cleaning. I am considering getting several hand burnishers and color coding them for use on similar colors to avoid some of the cleaning chore. Hope that helps Bill

Some suppliers are happy to send out small samples so that you can have a look at them, sometimes free and other times for a small fee. If you want to buy a large enough sample to try something with, Springfield Leather is willing to sell in smaller quantities for some of their leathers. http://springfieldleather.com/ There may be other vendors willing to do this as well. Hope that helps. Bill

Looks pretty darn good to me!

Looks like you got a pretty nice machine there! We'll be waiting to see what you do with it! Bill

Here's a video on making a very simple change purse by Ian Atkinson. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SjKAejwUJPg&list=UULkCG-505-1t0rYlgBTSnpQ He has a pattern available for sale, or you can back-engineer it form watching the video. There are other patterns to be found if you look about for free, as well. Hope that helps Bill

Good starter tools need not be terribly expensive for simple projects! And there's a good chance that you have many of them already. A good utility knife with sharp blades, Stanley brand for example, are useful for any number of things around the house in addition to leather. Home improvement stores, and department stores are possible sources. A self healing cutting mat, or poly cutting board are helpful, not too expensive and also available at many places. A metal straight edge with a cork or rubber non-slip back also has many uses. Home improvement stores or department stores, perhaps. A rotary hole punch is a little more specialized, but very useful and not terribly expensive. Multiple tip drive hole punches are another option. http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/tools/punches/3240-00.aspx A proper diamond sewing awl is highly recommended and not too expensive at ~ $20 US. The Japanese ones arrive in a usable state of sharpness, not all do. http://www.goodsjapan.jp/category/awls/catId=4252437 http://www.fineleatherworking.com/leather-tools/blanchard-leather-sewing-awl Tiger thread, which is a super thread to use, is available in short lengths from a number of places. https://www.etsy.com/listing/120961806/tiger-thread-for-leatherwork-20m?ref=shop_home_active_2 Needles (if you don't find what you need in your collection): https://www.etsy.com/listing/174952548/john-james-002-saddlers-harness-needles?ref=shop_home_active_7&ulsfg=true You can probably get by without a beveler, but they are useful. It's also harder to find a good one that's inexpensive. New ones arrive dull as dishwater and take some work to make usable. Vintage ones tend to be better, and expensive. You'll have to be creative without one. Some use sandpaper to bevel, but it's a little time consuming. An overstitch wheel is very useful, but you might get by without if you have a very good eye for spacing, or use a ruler and careful marking. http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/search/site-search-results.aspx?sectionpath=3&processor=content&p_keyword=overstitch A stitching groover or creaser is helpful, but you can probably figure out some other creative way to do the same job as a creaser. I've actually used a butter knife and straight edge to crease when the other half borrowed my proper tool and I couldn't find the damn thing. (take my tools, I take your silverware! Mwahahaha) http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/tools/stitching-lacing-tools/88081-00.aspx An edge burnisher of some sort is helpful for making a nice looking edge, and not expensive. http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/8121-00.aspx Rivets and a rivet setter sometimes come as a kit. http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/hardware/rivets/3635-00.aspx Chicago screws are an alternative to rivets for a belt. http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/hardware/1290-051.aspx Some leather, some dyes, some finish .. Maybe some saddle soap and beeswax for edge burnishing ... I don't think I've missed anything important. It looks like a lot, but it isn't, really. You may already have many of the tools. Others are useful for things other than leather work. Many of the items above can be found for less money on ebay and elsewhere if you're willing to do the searching. Chinese tools seem to be a mixed bag .. Some OK, some not, and no way to really tell which is which until you get them. Tandy tools are mostly OK for a starter. They have a store in the UK, so might avoid some shipping expenses for you. There are also a number of other UK vendors .. there is a thread on here listing UK and European vendors, but I can't find it at the moment. Hope that helps! Bill

Most of what I've found so far comes from youtube videos, and some from the spousal unit. The books / folio we're seeing may in fact be a paper covering over leather or something else, with leather used for the spine / inlay. Or it may actually be a leather panel on the books. What I've found so far seems to say use water based dyes. Remember that's not a pan of water .. It looks more like jello that hasn't been in the fridge long enough to set. The gel being more dense than the dye will allow it to float, yet not spread too thinly as oil based dye might. From what I've gathered so far, you can dye directly onto leather, but it takes a bit more care than paper, and needs to sit atop the dyes for a much longer time. There doesn't appear to be much wasted dye, but I do not know how long the "gel" will last, or if it can be stored. I don't know about starting with a pre-stained piece, but would think that if it doesn't impede the marbling dye absorption it should work. It's worth an experiment! As far as I can tell, multiple dips aren't necessary, and have no idea what would happen if you do. ( not that I know what will happen if you don't yet, either!) The video that looks closest to what we're seeing in the examples is: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SwAotLTL-Ws Very similar pattern, although on paper with different colors. It's pretty fascinating to see what artists come up with using this technique. This one looks to be tulips. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NqedBekgLdo This one has some cool patterns... on a HUGE scale: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ak-Gcikux7E In any case, trying this is on my to do list for some time soon. Hope that helps Bill

Strangely enough, the same sort of thing came up on here just recently. Check out: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=57852&hl= It's a variant of paper marbling using leather rather than paper. The short version is water with carrageennan (also known as Irish Moss despite the fact that it's seaweed) or methyl cellulose mixed into it makes a very wet jelly like ... er ... um stuff. Dyes or paints are then dripped onto the surface where they spread out, and sometimes pretty designs dragged through the paint. The paper, fabric, or leather is then carefully laid on top and allowed to float there for a time before being carefully lifted off of the .. er .. stuff. That's the short version, anyway. I'd tell you more, but I'm just finding out about it myself! Hope that helps Bill

You're most welcome. I can see why the knives are selling well! There are a number of videos about making messenger bags on youtube if you want to check them out. Nigel Armitage has a particularly nice one at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nEwbvfsZfBw Bill

Either type of gusset will work, however you may find that the "U" gusset shown in the left diagram presents a few problems if you're new to sewing. Because of the different radius between the inside of the gusset and outside, there will be either a shorter stitch length on the inside curve versus the outside. If you don't care about that, no biggie. If you do, its a bit tricky to deal with. The leather will also bunch up on the inside of the curves, which can be tricky to deal with. All in all, despite a little more stitching, the "square" gusset in the right diagram is probably easier overall. No problems with stitch length in this style. Getting the leather around the corner is also likely to be a little tricky, but not so much as the "U" gusset. I've made both types, and prefer the square gusset, but that's just my preference. Hope that helps Bill

Try tracing film for tracing and then transferring images. Tandy sells it in both rolls and 8.5x11sheets. It's considerably more durable than tracing paper. Wet the leather, let it dry just until natural color, and it will be ready for to be traced and worked. Bill

A 10cm square stamp is pretty big. You'll probably find that 1/2 ton won't readily do the job. I've got stamps smaller than that which are difficult to do with my 1/2 ton. Most prefer a piece of steel under the leather, but I like a piece of 1/2 inch plywood. The slight amount of give of the plywood seems to make some stamps work better. For my bigger stamps, I back them with a piece of steel to spread out the pressure. It helps, but I find that I still have to press in several locations to get a good impression. Unfortunately, it's hard to say just how much press you need. I think that 2 tons is about the biggest mechanical press that I've seen, and I think I'd start there. Most that I've seen bigger than 2 tons or so are hydraulic and slower in use. That speed may or may not be a problem depending on what you want to do (and how patient you are). Hope that helps Bill

I have absolutely no complaints whatsoever with my goodsjapan awls. They came sharp, and with a little work are REALLY sharp with a nice polish and seem to stay that way. I have recently used one of them to go through 3 layers of 10oz veg tan with surprisingly little effort. Bill

Some things just do not translate well from UK English to American English. My closest childhood friend's grandmother was from England, and moved to the US after retiring to live with the family. She liked to help out with the cleaning, cooking and grocery shopping as much as she could (she introduced me to Yorkshire Pudding .. YUMMMM). So, one day she went to the supermarket to buy groceries. This grocery store had scratch off tickets for discounts, freebies, etc. She had never seen such before in England, and asked the cashier about it, and was told to use a coin or something to rub off the paint from the ticket to see her prize. She promptly turned to the 16 year old bag boy and asked him "Do you have a rubber?" Needless to say, the boy turned the most amazing shade or red, and she was totally confused. England and America are indeed two nations divided by a common language. Bill

I have several Black River templates and tools, and love them. Joyce is great to work with. She has, however been swamped with orders lately and fell a little behind. Hopefully she'll be caught up again soon and help us all out!! Bill

Monica! Your mandolin/violin design is anything but rough or rustic! It's a really great idea and beautiful design. Very slight changes would take it to a very high level indeed. Joe may be talking about the loop on the front of the bag that the strap goes through to hold down the flap. Think something like a beltloop that is sewn from inside the loop. There are some videos on youtube to give you an idea of how to sew one in place, although I can't find one at the moment. You could also rivet or chicago screw it in place if it's a full loop. The back pocket stitching does not look bad as is, but you could also make it full-width and incorporate the sides in with the gusset seam, although that would slightly thicken that edge. The bottom of the pocket could still be stitched across the bottom, where it would be a less noticeable. With a bit of skiving of gusset, back and pocket leather it may not thicken the seam too much. It could be worth a try! Another interesting idea that just came to me ... To add a touch of whimsy, you might be able to find a tuning nut to use in place of the sam brown stud. i'm not sure if they are available anywhere, and you'd have to adjust the size of the hole in the strap, but it might be cool! It's a great design as is, however! Hope that helps! Bill PS My niece plays violin .. Would you be offended if I were to make something for her?

Blue Duck, check out this recent thread ... http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=56437&hl=vector#entry362026

It looks really nice, but yeah .. I can see how it might be a pain to sew like that. Bill

That's a pretty good list to start out with, but I'd make a few changes if I were starting over again. 1. Wing Dividers: Really handy. Don't go cheap, they need to be pretty sturdy. Even better, they're useful for 101 things around the house. Strap end punch: Expensive, hard to find good quality, and a little harder to use than they seem! Skip this one early on, and hand cut your strap ends with a sharp knife and a circle guide of some sort ( a coin, a jar lid, or even a can depending on size). Buy a strap punch later when you get a better feel for strap sized that you like, etc. When you do buy, consider vintage tools. They are usually better quality. Adjustable V-gouge: Useful is you need to make relatively acute corners with a single piece of leather. Otherwise, not quite so much. Depending on the designs you have in mind, you might hold off on this one. Not insanely expensive, in any case. (I bought one early on and didn't use it for years.) Skiver: Essential tool. You might start with a "safety beveler". Cheap at $5. Be sure to get a package or two of extra blades (probably more expensive than the knife!). A solid skiver knife will be pretty pricey, and you'll have to have some skills to keep it sharp. Strap Cutter: Essential tool: Wooden ones are not overly expensive, and very useful. See if you can find "the original strap cutter", as opposed to a knock off. I have a knock off, and it's OK, but folks that have used both say there is a difference. Be sure to get extra blades, or some on here have suggested that the above-mentioned skiver blades work better than the purpose blades. Others have mention Schick Injector razor blades as cheaper and better, if you can find them. There are also a few useful modifications that can be made to wooden strap cutters. Poke around on here and you'll find them. Head knife: I'd go a different route to start. In order to get a good head knife, you will have to spend at least $100. Vintage is usually better than new. You also have to have some sharpening skills with these. Instead, I'd buy a decent utility knife such as Stanley, and good blades. Somebody on here recommended Irwin bi-metal blades recently, so that might be worth a go. Add one or two hobby knives, such as x-acto #1 and #2 with their associated blades and you're good to go. Some people really like the rotary cutters, and they work great on straight lines, but I find them hard to get around curves. Burnishing bit: Useful tool, but ... I'd suggest getting a hand burnisher to begin and learn with, and add the power burinsher later.. A Dremel with a burnisher can pretty quickly over do the job. If you get a feel for how it should be by hand first, you then know what to look for when you do switch. Either way, get a hand burnisher. They have their uses even if you power burnish. Stitching groover: Useful tool. Get one something like Tandy's Pro stitching groover, It has changeable bits so that it can cut a groove, or a make a crease. I also find it easier to use since the pressure on the "blade" is straight down from your hand, rather than off to the side as with other groovers. I prefer a crease over a groove to keep stitch lines straight in most of the things I make. Cutting board: Essential. The self healing mats are nice, but a regular ol' plastic kitchen cutting board will work just fine. It's what I used for years. Wal-mar, k-mark, any kitchen store .. Within the limits of your work space, bigger is better. You'll have to re-position things less with a bigger board. Overstitch wheel: Not really necessary IF you will be using pricking irons. Tandy has one three wheels of differing stitch length (5, 6, and 7 SPI, I think). It might be better to start here rather than with pricking irons (they are pretty pricey). Other, better wheels are available in other sizes as well, but usually they are a one-size tool. Diamond Awl: Essential for stitching. Width of the blade, length of the blade, profile of the blade, and size and shape of the handle are all dependent on what you are doing and personal preference. It ain't an easy equation. If you really want to sew at 4spi, you'll be using thick thread, and will want a wider blade. For handbags, you probably will not go through terribly thick leather, so a shorter blade will do .. I find shorter blades a little easier to work with since a small movement of the hand makes a small movement at the blade tip. Longer blade, more movement. I also prefer a blade with straight sides or a very mild taper. You want the holes on both sides of the leather to be close to the same size. Pricking Iron: Quite useful, but not essential if you use the overstitch wheel. I think I'd hold off on these until you are certain what stitch lengths you like to use. If you look back at some of the threads on here for the last couple of months, you'll find that pricking irons has been a hot topic with some pretty prickly debate (sorry for the bad pun). It's a little too much to go into here and now. ADDED TOOLS: Straight edge: Steel or aluminum. Cork or rubber backed. One short ( 12 - 16" or so ). One long (36" or more). And possibly one very short such as a pocket ruler. Sandpaper: Various grits. Anything finer than 300 or 400 is probably wasted effort on leather. Edger: Possibly a couple of different sizes, depending on how thick the leather is. Takes off the corner of a piece of leather to help give it a better look and feel. Used before burnishing, which completes the job. Sharpening stones: ( and associated oil, etc). Various grades to sharpen tools initially, finer grades to keep them sharp when dulled. Strop board and grit: You can make a decent strop from a piece of leather and wood, or you can buy them. Either way is good. I have some of both. Most people seem to go with "Green" (relatively fine) compound to strop their tools. I have a some coarser grit compounds as well, but green is used the most. Hammers: A hammer in the 16-24 ounce range is useful for a number of things. Setting rivets and snaps, tapping glued pieces, tapping down stitches. I'd start with a rawhide hammer. It will work passably for most things, at least for awhile. A dead-blow hammer is nice for setting rivets and snaps, but a little much for may other uses. Pliers: A set of small smooth jawed pliers can be useful for a number or things, but especially for sewing. Once in awhile you just can't get enough grip to pull a needle through. Pliers such as these will help with that and not mar the surface of the needle. *note .. If that happens more than once in awhile, thread/needle is too big for the hole ... Or vice versa! I'm sure I've forgotten something, but darn if I can remember what it is. Arbor Press: I'd skip it to start with. NOT for use with pricking irons. I'd hand-set rivets for at least a little while, and then think about a proper rivet setter rather than an arbor press. Check out this thread http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=51602&hl= Arbor presses have their uses, and if you had one around already, or had lots of use for stamping letters ( and other things that arbors are good at) it would be worth modifying. Otherwise, a rivet setter will work better. Thread: I like the poly woven thread, such as Tiger. I've used both Tiger and Chinese non-brand versions. Tiger is nicer to use, but the other stuff is good too. 1mm is that thickest available that I'm aware of, but I haven't really looked for anything thicker than that. Opinions vary widely about thread, and much of it personal preference and the look that you want to go for in your work. I would suggest that Tiger is the nicest option for you as you learn to hand stitch, despite it's price at something like $45 a roll. It can be had in smaller amounts from various places for less overall cost, although at higher cost per foot. Needles: Saddler's needles, or harness needles. Many have recommended John James brand, although there is some confusion as to size vs. their numbering system. I have not major complaints with Tandy's needles. Rivets: I like double-capped rivets as opposed to the hollow backed "rapid rivets". Rapid rivets have a pretty sharp edge at the back of the post part which can cut into the leather with use. Rapid rivets ARE useful if you will be gluing a liner or something over the back since they don't create a bump. Double caps are better about not cutting into leather, are prettier, and seem a bit stronger to boot. Both types set about the same way. There are other options such as copper rivets (VERY strong, not so pretty) and Chicago screws ( useful for a number or things and reasons, but a little clunky). Tool sources: For a middle-of the road approach to tools, I'm happy with the Seiwa awls and irons I got at http://www.goodsjapan.jp/ ... just be sure to pay for their expedited shipping or be prepared to wait. Others have suggested http://www.leathercrafttools.com/ for many of the same Japanese tools at less cost, but I can't tell you anything more about that website. Check the sponsor websites, listed in the banner ads at the top of the webpages. They all have various tools of various quality and price levels. Enjoy! Bill

Looks really great! They'll love 'em! Bill

I don't know about other types of leather, but on plain ol' veg tan it will certainly burn if too hot, then burnish/glaze if a little cooler. So it has to be "just right". Next time I try it, I'll break out my infrared thermometer and see if I can give you an actual temperature. Bill