DJole

I have tried "locking" the needle onto the thread a couple times, but I don't do it anymore. Here is why: When (not if!) I pierce the thread while stitching, if the thread is not locked onto the needle, I can just slide the needle off the thread, and then pull the thread out to correct the error. I then just thread the needle back on, and then back to stitching. I can hear people say, "Well, just don't pierce the thread!" Of course, that's the ideal. I've gotten MUCH better at it lately (just once or twice per project maybe)...

I'm nearly done with this project. It's a wallet for my brother, who is an assistant coach for a high school football team. I used some black "Caviar" leather (from France, bought from Rocky Mountain Leather Supply) because it has a very similar pattern to the one used on American footballs. The inside is a gorgeous, soft bit of calf leather from Orion leather in Texas. It's the best leather I have ever had the pleasure of working with-- too bad I used nearly all of the small sample I had for this project! ;-) The thread is cream and blue Ritza Tiger (.6 size). I completed all the stitching today, and the last step is to clean up and burnish the edges. This wallet really feels nice in the hand. That Caviar is great stuff!

Looking good -- you're off to a great start! doesn't it feel great to know you've improved? I know it makes me happy! ;-) As for the chisel question: Your problem is that the teeth of those Tandy irons are too short to go all the way through the layers, right? 1) Lay out your stitching line on the top layer, and make your holes as desired. Then lay it on the top of the lower layer, and using those holes as guides, use your 2-prong chisel or awl to mark the flesh side of the lower layer-- ends of the stitching line, a few in the middle, the corners. Then take the top layer off, mark the same stitching line on the flesh side of the lower layer, and finish making the holes in that layer. Use the guide holes to make sure all the holes line up. Then put the layers together and sew. 2) Use thinner leather for the wallet! ;-) 3) Get a set of reverse irons, and use them on the grain side of the lower layer. Reverse irons work like this: your normal slanted irons go like this \ \ \ \ , and reverse go like this / / / /, so that the hole angles match up. 4) Learn to do it old-school style: pricking irons to mark where the holes go, and then a sharp awl to go all the way through while the piece is in the stitching pony. I have done methods 1, 2 and three, and though I have a set of pricking irons, I haven't practiced method 4 yet. You could also try switching to a different style of iron, like the Japanese, which are a cross between those straight diamond chisels you have there and the narrow slits of French style irons. You might want to take a look at Kevin Lee's basic tools, which are very inexpensive, yet well polished and well made. As Kevin Lee points out, "This tool is priced for beginners who wish to try out different SPIs with french-style irons before committing to better tools." I bought a set of his reverse irons, and they have worked very well. (https://kevinlee.global/collections/pricking-irons/products/basic-french-pricking-iron?variant=15905154891876)

ooo...that's nice! Love that broguing-- it's a great finishing touch.

You should certainly check out Ian Atkinson's videos. If you're brand new, trying to figure out what tools you need and how everything works (and what you really don't need to buy), then Ian has some instruction especially for you! Check him out here: https://www.ianatkinson.net/leather/videos.htm

Good stuff. My father did boot repair work after retiring from his United States Forest Service career. Most of what he did were work boots, worn by people working out in the forests. Thus, after he died, I ended up with 5 pairs of White's boots (another Spokane boot company) in my size (US 7-- I have smallish feet, apparently, like my father.) I'll probably never need to buy boots again. The boots in the picture below were ones that he repurposed for me -- they had been delivered to the purchaser's porch, but a dog had smelled the rawhide heel counter and tore open the package and chewed on the rawhide bits. In the shop, my father cleaned them up and changed the sole for me. These boots were one of the last things we talked about before the sudden heart attack he had at the boot repair shop. New, these are about 400 dollar boots. I don't get to wear them often, but each time I do, I am reminded of him, and that he worked on these boots with his hands.

My older Dr Martens (made in UK, actual leather) are still in decent condition (though the soles are worn). The newer ones...what is supposed to be leather is not, and the fabric/leather combination has torn at the heels of both shoes. I'm tempted to just make my own uppers out of real leather.

I will do that. I might get lucky!

I'd love to make a wallet for my brother, who coaches high school football. Using Horween's football leather would be perfect. But I don't need a whole 200 dollar plus hide. Where can I find smaller pieces?

I believe the term for your "spacer" is a "welt." You are right, that's a LOT of layers to try to knock a stitching chisel through -- I found the same problem on one of my own projects. The pricking iron and awl technique is likely the traditional method, if you take the time to learn how to get the awl straight through all those layers. But there are other ways using the stitching irons/chisels: 1) make holes in each layer separately. You need to make sure the stitching line is straight, of course. Make the holes in the top layer, then lay that down on the second layer, and using the chisel again, mark the holes on the second layer. Then take the first layer off and complete the holes in the second layer. You must be sure to keep consistent alignment of the chisel, or the holes will wander -- practice keeping it always at vertical! Look, check, and look again before pounding! Use the first layer again, and mark the third layer, and continue as above. Yes, it's tedious and fiddly, but it gets all the holes lined up. 2) Do the same as (1) above, but glue the 1st and 2nd layers (the welt) together, and make holes completely. Then mark 3rd layer and complete separately as above. 3) I have heard of some who use the same chisels on the front side of layer 1, and the back side of layer 2. This causes the holes to cross in an X X X pattern, and might not be what you want. In a piece with more than 2 layers, I don't think it would work. 4) To avoid the "X" holes of (3), invest in a set of reverse chisels. The teeth of those are opposite in alignment, so they keep the / / / pattern. I have one set of Kevin Lee reverse chisels; here's how I use them. I make the holes on layer 1, then glue the next layer to it. Using a 2 prong chisel, I go back through the initial holes on layer 1, making a few holes at the start and end of each stitching line (and a few in the middle), all the way through so I can see the holes on the front of layer 2. Then I use the reverse irons, starting in the guide holes, to complete the stitching holes on layer 2. The prong spacing should match up, if you are careful. Drawback: you need to double your investment in stitching irons!

I love it! Whimsy and function together in a great looking piece.

If OP is in American Fork, then OP needs to check up Rocky Mountain Leather Supply, just a quick trip north up I-15: https://www.rmleathersupply.com/collections/buckles-hardware/products/hasi-hato-premium-japanese-line-snaps-solid-brass?variant=15318453420141

Had a car stolen from a parking lot at work back in January. Some scumbag decided that my 93 Integra GS was too good to pass up, and stole her. She was missing for 4 weeks or so, but then popped up in a nearby impound lot. Here's what the scumbag thieves and tweakers did to her: http://djole.altervista.org/djole/Amusements/Acura sadness/SadCar.htm I just wanted to vent, because I am so angry and heart-broken at what these lowlife animals did to a beautiful piece of engineering. As a whole, she was wonderful. Now, she's broken and sad, and so am I.

Those are very nice-- what a thoughtful gift! And bonus-- you got to practice techniques! ;-)

How about the Japanese-made (and style) Olfa skiver, sold here for 15 dollars: https://www.rmleathersupply.com/search?type=product&q=olfa It uses replaceable blades, also sold there.

Oops! You didn't upload the picture!

Maybe Chuck at Weaver Leather Supply can help you out: https://blog.weaverleathersupply.com/the-leather-element-bullet-loops/

You will probably find Ian Atkinson's videos about leatherworking very useful as you start out. He also has an excellent video discussing necessary tools for beginners. Find the video series here: https://www.ianatkinson.net/leather/videos.htm

You mean just biting down and ripping a rivet out with your teeth is not how it's done?

What color was the belt? Did you dye it? 1) I have read that using shorter lengths of thread will help keep those light colored threads looking nicer. 2) Apply finish (Resolene, etc.) before stitching, to help keep the color down. 3) Use a cream or beige colored thread with darker leather colors. I have some Ritza beige, and I prefer it to the bright starkness of the white thread.

What he said... Except that you live in Canada, which means rmleathersupply can't ship them free to you. ;-(

I mostly use black markers for those hard to reach corners, and I have some colored alcohol markers for edges. I could use a brush, or a resist, but a fine-tipped marker just makes the whole process easier.

Not for this piece. This was my "learning to do zippers and piping" project. The bag you show there -- was it a turned bag?

I just finished this today -- got the second side stiched to the gusset and piping, trimmed the piping down, wet the veg-tan, and turned it inside out without too much trouble. Here's an oblique view of the bag:

Well, folks, thanks for the input! I didn't have to use temporary stitches or staples at all! I just finished the stitching, trimmed the piping down, dampened the leather, and turned it inside out!