DJole

I use a leather "canister" (like a map tube) to store my skiver and Xacto knives in. Keeps the sharp side away from my fingers!

I only have the TF Barge cement, like you. I've never used the "real" stuff. Before I picked it up, I used various white glues (like Tandy's EcoWeld), but I needed something stronger for other projects. I'll be interested to see comparisons.

You can actually stamp it after dying, as long as you haven't added any other chemical (like Resolene, for example, or other protective finishes.) What you should do first, however, is do a test run on a scrap piece of leather from the same hide: dye it, and then try casing it and stamping it. Then take another piece, stamp it and then dye it. If you're okay with the first round, then you're good to go. If you really prefer the second round, then you know what to do next time! Usually the stamping goes first because it affects the leather surface, and dye will react differently to those changes.

Out on the Kenai you probably don't have a leather supply store nearby, but probably a few bears around. Welcome to the forum!

Welcome to the forum!

What an absolute beast of a machine! Good to see it slowly coming back to life.

Welcome to the forum! It's a great place full of helpful people and a goldmine of information. I did a quick Google search to find out what this journal looks like: Diary as it looks in the TV program So, now for some more questions: It doesn't appear that the lines are cut in and then tooled with a beveler, although this could be done. It appears that they are deeply embossed, with a rigid, rounded-end tool. It's even possible to make that design by forming the thin leather over shapes (like this person did).

How to finish edges, and how to do traditional stitching. There was no Internet when I wanted to learn all this in the mid 80s to mid 90s. I suppose I could have asked that Tandy store less than 1/4 mile away from me for instruction, or something, but it seemed like everything was Western themed, and that's not my interest.

Thanks for posting those, Tugadude.

I'm looking at edge waxes, like Columbus brand, but I can't find any instructions on how they are applied: heated and applied as liquid? rubbed on like a burnisher?

Those are lovely! Nice colors, smooth and clean design.

Any experience with the Felsted skiver? Or is that strictly limited to bookbinding leathers?

Well, you probably got yours in an alternate universe or something! ;-)

The cheap punch you have illustrated there is not worth the money, whether sold at Tandy or elsewhere. The formed sheet metal bends under pressure, and you get the alignment problems. Buy the solid metal punch instead; for example, Tandy Leather Craftool Pro Rotary Leather Punch 3230-00. (Or something similar from another manufacturer.) It costs more, but it will last a LOT longer and should be nearly trouble free. Don't forget that if the individual punch tubes fail (break or bend), Tandy will replace them for free.

Welcome to the forum! There are many helpful experts here, and they would be glad to help you out! For best results getting answers to your question, you should do the following: 1) Change your post title from "Hello Everyone" to something more descriptive, like "Hello Everyone -- Newbie User Luberto#9 question" 2) Post your question in the subforum dedicated to sewing machine problems and questions.

Completed the 2nd of two phone cases. This is for a co-worker's husband. It's veg tan, 3mm thick, wet-molded around a wooden form cut to the size of the client's phone. He is from Hawaii, so I added the reverse carved hibiscus flower as an extra. I used 2 coats of Fiebing USMC Black, well-rubbed to remove powdery residue. Thread is .6 Ritza Tiger in black. The edges are clear Tokonole. Finished with 2 coats of Resolene. My co-worker tells me that he loves it! He'd actually been thinking about getting a phone case, and she surprised him with this.

Hey, I'm over on the West Side of the same city! Welcome to the forum.

Welcome to de-lurking!

Some of us have tunable bodhrans, especially useful in areas which have a wide range of temperatures and humidity to deal with (unlike Ireland, for example.) Mine has held up pretty well over...hmm...let me think...30 years at least, from the high deserts of Utah to the wet Lowlands of western Washington.

I remember reading that the bodhran is traditionally goat skin. I'm quite sure that mine is, at least.

To attract the attention of experts on this subject, you should change your post title to be more specific, like this: Please / Quick Recommendations between 2 leather sewing machines

Just make sure you empty them first...

Instead of two days of tooling, it's two days of stitching! heh! Unless, of course, you have a machine... But still, it's a nice design element on a very lovely bag.

Good question -- if you have never stropped it, try the experiment: cut without stropping, then strop it and cut again, and see if it makes a difference. The material differences between metal and ceramic might come into play here, but I'm just guessing.

I have a phone case that I made, which a fellow worker admired very much. She recently asked if I could make her and her husband phone cases in a similar design. So today I finally got hers done, except for the final coat of SuperShene. This is a wet mold, around a wooden form made to the dimensions of her Samsung phone that is a bit larger than her actual phone. (I took the molded leather in to her earlier to make absolutely sure that her phone fits it, and it does.) This is my second wet mold project (the first is her husband's case, which is still half done.) You can see the bottom fold where the leather was folded over itself and then molded around the wooden form. `I used 2mm thick veg tan, dyed with Angelus Ox Blood (her choice), with clear Tokonole on the edges. That burnished edge turned out astoundingly good, thanks to various forum posts on the topic. The one picture taken on the brown background (my computer desk, where I do all my stitching!) shows the edges before I trimmed them to size and burnished them. The thread is Tiger Ritza 0.6, Bordeaux color (from Rocky Mountain Leather Suppy), saddle stitched using John James 002 needles and an Osborne stitching awl. I used 4 mm pricking irons which I picked up from Amazon, then spent some time sanding and polishing to smooth the tooling marks on the teeth. I think I did a pretty good job here-- only a few things I know which are problematic. I showed her some pictures in progress and she was quite excited. Hopefully she loves the finished product.