mikesc

Thanks :)..I know that site of old..but thought that Wiz was maybe referring to another..

Nope ..only in my head..but..I have a Wacom unit that I can hook up to this computer tomorrow ( just after midnight here now ) and then draw it ( what I'm thinking of ) for you .. :)

:) ..When taking photos of items outside , an overcast day ( but not actually raining ) is better than a sunny day..gives a "light box" effect, well lit, no harsh shadows..Not too "busy" a background..leather and logs or leather and the sawn face ( top ) of tree stumps looks good.

You seem to be going about it the right way, and enjoying what you are doing.. :) Only thing I'd say is ..when you take your photos, have the light behind you, or be outside, very hard to see your work against the light.

No photos of what your patterns make , no quantities, how many patterns, only 4 posts.. lot of "unknowns".. "Mystery deal"..good luck.. btw.."pass along" usually means give away..you appear to be selling..but what, how many, that makes what, no examples, mystery deal..

Thank you :)

Ah..I read the posts below that one that spoke of "selling them" and "Etsy shops"..didn't read the entire thread..#red face#.

Umm, Wiz..you forgot to post the link to "the page" ..."If you go to this Singer model number page and look under the section for the 11 series" mentioned in your last post.. :)

I think that you'll find that he " Sells them" via his Etsy shop ( old thread, maybe the shop is still there ) , he doesn't appear to just "Send them" to anyone who asks.

You might be able to get the Adler to do this , if you rigged up some sort of straight edge line guide* on the arm so that as you sewed along the arm you could watch the stitched seam that you were sewing stayed aligned with it, and thus make sure it did not wander. *Something that went around the upper arm and held a block with a hole bore vertically so that it allowed a vertical bar with a straight edge to be lowered so as to rest parallel to the lower arm on the material along the seam as you were sewing. Two large "hose clips" or strong cable ties to hold a bar with a vertical hole and a side hole to allow a threaded guide stop screw..that would let the bar slide up and down..then on the bottom end you attach a small bar about 50mm to 100mm long that rests on top of what you are sewing , right up against your stitch line..and parallel to the lower arm..if you watched that your stitches stayed "along it" that would keep your seam " along the arm" pretty straight..Not perfect..but it might do until you can get a true along the arm machine.

The machine in the last two photos isn't going to "sew along the arm", because the feed dogs ( zoom in to see them ) are pulling from front to back.. HTH :) It looks to be a very long arm machine, maybe for sewing sails.

Cheers Fred :)) Just looked up K&S on ebay.. sent from UK to me is a bit less than half the price ( even including tracked postage ) that I would pay in France for K&S..Going to order a pack of 4 different sections ( each section slides tightly inside the other, perfect for small sculpture armatures ) when I've had lunch.. return to subject..ABS maybe ? about 5mm to 10mm thick..? The Lada 4x4s were OK ( slow, noisy and thirsty, and no road holding ) but off road, they could damn near climb trees :)..had one converted to GPL in the Alps Maritimes..basic but fun :)

Kydex may well be a very good solution. :) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kydex even harder to get here ( at a sensible price ) than good Brass..easy to get where you are..

Old Landy.. 1958 model ( in Malta ) ..and also a 1960, and a 1962 ( both in Wales, around Barmouth , Porthmadog, North Wales in general ) .... the newer ones are indeed sea air proof..the older ones were also duraluminium, but not quite the same alloy as the later ones.. Yep.. steel will corrode..stainless wont do it so badly.. Brass corrosion depends on how long..can take a few years to set in, or a few months..I've got some items that have verdigris after 6 months..Brass fittings ( studs, rivets ) in Chrome tan and some in Veg tan that have not budged, others in Veg tan went green around the Brass ware after a year or so.. I did think originally of mentioning HDPE in flat bar..but depends on the weight that would be put on it, all the plastics will distort ..maybe carbon fibre or kevlar ( 4 or 5 plies in polyester resin ) would be more solid, and would not react with leather, either Chrome tan or Veg tan. btw.. I think that in English those metal strips are called briefcase handle support bars..here they are called "barre serviette" or "barre cartable"..I have some ..and the thinner ones used in handbags ( sacs ) by most of the French manufacturers since WW1 at least are made in Brass..some of the sacs got verdigris, and some (as has been your experience Fred ) have none..and their age varies from nearly 100 years to about 50 years.. Sounds like you have access to better Brass than I can get here..and that previous French sac manufacturers had better Brass too.. I know ksmetals.com , but have never ordered from them as the freight cost of shipping Brass to me ( due to the weight ) is not pleasant ..If it was reasonable I'd have ordered square Brass tube years ago for sculpture armatures..Here the only suppliers are on the border with Germany ( other side of France from me ) they buy it from Germany to supply model railway makers..Shipping from them to me is also high..not much Brass to a kilo :( OT..Alfa Romeos used to come into the UK "pre-rusted" underneath , ( I had a few of the sportier ones , the GTV 2000s , nice cars ) and their smaller 1300 and 1600 versions , never had any of those smaller size engine ones ..Not aluminium, but IME the Italians don't do good Stainless steel , or steel either.their stainless steel gets what you call "spiders" quite quickly, be it in sheets or bars etc.. "Spider's legs" is a better description than wiggley..I might "borrow" that if I may :)

The reason that I didn't mention Brass is that it can ( and often does ) over time, react with leather to produce verdigris..( green discolouration ) ..you can clean it with weak acetic acid..but then you'll risk affecting / marking the leather.. Some types of stainless steel ( there is more than one type, "stainless steel" is a "catch all" term ) can also "react", but if that happens, it is the steel that can become "pitted" or have "frost pattern like" or thin wiggley* lines on the surface..the leather will not show as much discolouration as with Brass and verdigris..If the Brass is Nickel plated it would usually be OK, or you could clear coat it with lacquer. Some chrome tans react worse than veg tan to contact with Brass.. To make it worse, if the item is going to be used where the air is salty, aluminium will oxidise and make a white powder which will also discolour things..This used to happen to panels on older Landrovers that were kept near the sea ..Not in the sea, or on the sea front, but just living within a few kms of the sea could bring this about. *may not be an actual word.

Btw Emily..your "interests" makes me think you may appreciate this thread started by a past member.. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/3502-black-and-silver-leather-fantasy-armor/ and then follow his links.. also put this next line into Google site:leatherworker.net azmal or site leatherworker.net prince There are / were others here whose artwork on or around leather you might like. Deviant art has many other leatherworkers who make armour.. Almost forgot..there is also one of the mods here..immiketoo does artwork, leather sculpture, and armour..and abhandmade..sculpted leather.

Aluminium would be better, or stainless steel , mild steel will eventually rust and discolour the leather..tanned ( chrome or veg ) leather has quite a lot of "active " chemicals and organic compounds in it..Aluminium is better than steel, stainless steel is best..

Paddles ? Floggers ? "Restraints" ? "Armour" ? Shoe / Boot / Sandal soles ?

You could "correct" your ruby and ceramic blades on genuine diamond files / stones..take a while, maybe , but they'd be usable again. I used to use diamond tools ( including angle grinders ) and Dremel accessories, bits etc, and files / stones to sculpt ruby "blocks"..sold as corundum or corindon ..Ruby is nearly as hard as diamond, but not quite, so can be worked and shaped and polished with diamond tools and diamond dust and paste.. You mentioned magnifiers..this is the type that is very lightweight and wont break the bank.ABHandmade I think uses this type for some of his leather sculpture work that he has shown..This link is to a site in the UK, but if you copy the image and put it into tin eye.. https://tineye.com/ or Google image search you should be able to find a supplier nearer to you and probably cheaper as they wont be charging VAT.. https://www.quicktest.co.uk/acatalog/Binocular-headband-magnifier--5-lenses-can-be-used-singly-or-in-pairs.-Also-an-LED-light.-binocmag_01H.html#SID=217 HTH :) btw..Nice tiny carving :)

I read in Willium Cobblers / "mate's" voice..voiced by Peter Sellers.. http://www.thegoonshow.net/scripts_show.asp?title=s07e04_the_macreekie_rising_of_74 does it also say that you are "excused cabers" ? :) I have many of the goons episodes on ether 33s or tape or mps..I think I'll just dig a few out, takes me back to when I was a kid and listening to them on the wireless...30 minutes of bliss :))

I approve of that jalopy forum..my kind of humour :)

If you can get "Vanish oxy-action"..or "Vanish gold"..powder mix some up in a small bowl and sit with your fingers dipped in ( take them out from time to time as it attacks skin, makes it "friable" and white, and it stings a bit.. like the stuff for removing verrucas..it isn't the same stuff, but the effects are similar on skin.. Or the liquid equivalent from the super market sold as pre wash topical stain remover for clothes..do the same..pour into a small bowl..dip your fingers in..take them out after 30 seconds, repeat as necessary.. They are all the same chemical base..peroxide..so have the "bleaching action" like chlorine..but less aggressive, and without the smell.. You may already have some in the laundry room.

Reading the ingredients..I hope that you told the fire service that you have it..and where it is, in case they ever have to visit to extinguish anything..and that you have a brace or two of large ABC type extinguishers in your place..

Marvel Mystery Oil.. I had never heard of it..I thought you were joking with that name..But I looked it up ( thinking it was going to be a "Tex Avery" product" )..Imagine my surprise to discover it is a thing..and a "thing" that has been around for a long time..which, when you read about it here below https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marvel_Mystery_Oil Makes you wonder how it and the company who makes it have survived..must be the magical properties of the lard.. ;) Yep..I tend to agree with you, much better to wait for some real sewing machine oil.. :) ps..The mixture of chemicals in the modern version of "Marvel Mystery Oil", seems designed to be as potentially ( or confirmed ) as carcinogenic as possible..Members in the state of California.."look away now"..

Another thought, you can iron chrome tan..so..If you got some "iron on stiffener material"..Pellon* type ( like that used for stiffening textiles ) you could iron it onto the "flesh" side of your chrome tan ( you have to use a "crepe" textile between the iron and the Pellon, to stop the iron from sticking ) ..then assemble the pieces..and add a textile liner if you wish.. You could also glue plastic liners to each chrome tan panel "flesh side" before assembly..that would help it "stand" in a similar way that some of the Vuitton sacs made with coated leather are slightly more rigid because of the coating, but yours would be on the inside..Stitching would have to be done more carefully.. Some bag shapes are naturally more inclined to stay up right than others..cylinders will "flop" less than boxes. Depending on the design you could make a stiffer internal "frame"..Lot of potential solutions, unfortunately heating the leather ( as can be done with veg tan ) won't work, the structure of chrome tan is not the same after tanning as the structure of veg tan. *there are other "brand names"..