Tina

Me too...I just Love my SK3 knife :-) Being a woman and having bigger, strong hands I still have the most narrow (smallest) barrel on my knife, I love it and I never cramp up. Ferg's suggestion about calling Paul seams like your best opption, good luck :-)

Hej Svartsmeden och Välkommen hit och skitbra fråga :-) There is just one small problem with the typical Scandinavian sheets, they're all formfitted/molded around the knife with the stiching at the back of it. Doing stamping/tooling on typical American sheet is "easy" but I too wonder when are you suppouse to tool the Scandinavian sheets? Before molding (which means the stamping will fade out) or after the molding, hense the knife will still have to be in there??? I guess it might be a similar problem when doing tooling on a saddle?

Love your bibs, Love your tutorial on them. Thanks a load Spinner

Awesome work as usual Boma. Love your stitchings and, Keep'm coming :-)

You must think of their waterbased acryllic leather paints? The only dye I have seen (or heard of) is the spirit dye :-) http://turtlefeathers.net/text/angelus/dye.html = the sprit dye http://turtlefeathers.net/text/product-index.html =the page with all the links to the rest of their line

I Love Angelus dye and I to have the choklad at home. There is a few things with using it... First make sure you have a good container of reduser (dentures alcohol works too), I know just a few colors that you can use just out of the bottle without diluting it first (red, yellow+???). All Angelus dyes are very pigment strong and most of them need to be deluted (which means they last longer=very economical). Ontop of that differnt hides takes the dye differntly, ontop you can also have different parts of the hide take the dye differently so Always try out an example first. I suspect this goes with all good quallity dyes nevermind the brand. If you use something else than recomended as a cleaner I would always make a sample piece first. Angelus have their own cleaner too. Good luck//Tina

Thank You massive guys, you're more than nice and generous with your comments :-) The Native American theme is pretty popular here (I don[t know why...A romatic freedom nostalgia?) but I'm happy my client loves it *S*

Thank you both for the nice words:-) Yes, the border is acryllics...The feather was first dyed but all the fine cuts with the hairblade made the dye go way to dark so...Ontop there's acrylic too.

...and Great Thank you Spinner for your expertise on the subject :-) So this is a tank bib to a newer Harley, or simply HD as they're called overe her at my end of the world. If I'm lucky I might end up "pimping" more bikes in the neighborhood.

Skriv till dom, jag vet ett par bara i Sverige som inom de senaste året köpt från dom...Bara dom inte ändrat sig nyligen???

Hi and Welcome to the best leatherplace on earth :-)

This is my advice to you...Buy them up, copy the pattern for your own use and then resell it...

I'm with Kevin here... The only affordable, non nylon (delrin?) metal maker I have come across is Philips engraving, I'm superhappy with mine :-)

This is the only place I know of: http://stleather.com/ Page 39, item number: A0162 = Stainless steel lace, 3/16 x 25ft rools at $4.95 ea

Very nice looking mocks, and they look to be verry comfy too

There is no dye getting "white white". You have to use acryllic paint and I would suggest using Angelus white leather paint, I get it from this place (they have it in different sized bottles), it might be other places to out there? I don't have anything to do with this company except being a happy customer:-) Another tip is painting it in thinn layers and make sure it dryes in between, this is the way you will get the best resault without lumps and bumps and a nice white color at the end. http://turtlefeather...elus/paint.html

I second Bard Skye... You rock Spinner and Great Thanks for all your advice, this will for sure help

Thanks Spinner:-) I'm going to try and find it on this side of the pond first...The custom is just toooo exact here and I want to avoid more fees than necessary. I have one more question...What do you do to the flesh side of the piece, in this case I am doing a tank bib. I mean that bit has to soak up load os water if it's raining, at the same time I don't want to treat it with something that destroys the paint on th tank...Any ideas?

Hi Spinner and Thanks a load for the help...Now I only need to find the Pecard brand over here, I have the rest :-)

As I have been asked to make some biker gear, I have to get the treatment right too. So all you biker gear makers, what are you using to make the leather items stand the heat, the cold and the water from mother nature on veg.tan leather? (and does that treatment allowes for using antiquing?) Looking forward to some good advice :-)

Thanks you Ray for this mornings first and good laugh

Tandy has them, item number: 3061-00

SuperThanks Clair, really good explanations :-) McJeep...As Clair said, this is a true spirit dye. It soaks into the leather and leave the surface as before the dying. Due to the spirit in the dye you need to use an oil afterwards to replace the natural oil in the leather that the spirit dryes out...I use pure neatfot oil but there might be other options too.

I would use the dye for sure :-) I also make sure to get a som reduser to fade it in to the tone you would like...The color "Light Rose" is what you want, The color on the screen does not make it justice. Here's where you can get it for a nice price and a quick shipping: (I do not have anything to do with this company other than being a happy cutomer) http://turtlefeather...ngelus/dye.html I did find the picture I made some time ago...This is the "Light rose" dye and from undiluted to some diluted versions.