Uwe

My Adler 67 has the standard mounting holes for attachments. Sailrite makes a nice binder attachment that uses these standard mounting holes and it may work on your 227R as well. The curvature of the top plate on the Consew 227 may still be an issue, as it will slightly tilt any attachment due to the offset of the mounting holes towards the front. I measured the mounting hole locations on my Adler 67 and took two pictures to illustrate their locations and distances from the centered needle position (stitch length set to "0"):

Somebody came up with an interesting way to attach a binder to his Consew 227R, as posted here: http://gearmaker.org/index.php?topic=347.0 I have a feeling this guy considered drilling holes directly into the top plate, but must have had reasons to go another route. The curved top plate may not lend itself to mounting a binder directly to it, perhaps due to tight space and moving parts directly underneath (having a screw extend below the top plate may interfere with moving parts). The parts list for the Consew 227 series has 38 parts listed on page 17 that are special to the synchronized binder version of this machine (227RFS). Here's a picture of the custom binder setup and the owner's description:

Can you post a picture of your machine head and perhaps the binder you plan to use?

Without seeing pictures of your 105-27 I have to guess its similar to the 105-27 that Nick-o-sew was selling on eBay some time ago. Their machine looked just like a 105-25 but had a little flatbed attachment and an elaborate bobbin winder contraption that ran off the hand wheel. It was not unusual for a time for a high-volume-buyer to request a custom version of a machine to suit their specific manufacturing needs. Help solve the mystery by looking at the Adler brochure of the regular 105 machines and subclasses ( http://www.duerkopp-adler.com/commons/download/download-text-attachments/Vintage_Leaflets_Adler/Leaflets_Adler_class_105.pdf ) and then take a few photos of yours that highlight what's different with your machine. If you post the pictures here we'll have a record of it for future inquiring minds and the ever hungry search engines. The only real 105-27 documentation reference I came across is a 2-page parts list sold by Proleptic for $2 (http://proleptic.net/shop/adler/adler-105-27/). Here's a picture of the machine Nick-o-sew was selling:

It is still available. I'm in Europe right now, returning to Detroit on August 22.

Another resource for older Pfaff manuals, including 138, 145, etc. is here: http://dixiesewingmachine.tzo.com/PFAFF%20SERVICE%20BOOK.htm

Pfaff makes manuals for some of its machines available here: https://www.pfaff-industrial.de/en/support/downloads/technical?set_language=en The manuals cover mostly newer models, so yours may not be in the list.

Your reverse lever may not be "centered" properly. With stitch length set to max and needle at bottom dead center, the top and bottom feed dogs and should NOT move when moving the reverse lever up and down. If the feed dogs move, your forward and backward feed dog movements will not be equal. On page 11 of the 335 service manual ( https://www.pfaff-industrial.de/db-downloads/technicaldoc/justieranleitungen/300/ja_335_01-14_en/@@download/file/JA_335_01-14_EN.pdf) they talk about how to "center" the reverse lever. The manual is for the newer model, but often these mechanical adjustments are the same over several generations of the machine.

The needle positioning systems on these cheap servo motors mostly work by installing the sensor on the hand wheel ( easy or hard, depending on your machine). The sensor has a switch that activates when the hand wheel is in a certain position. During setup you turn the hand wheel in the desired position (usually needle down), then turn the sensor until the switch activates and the little light comes on, then tighten the set screw. The programming unit now knows which position is the down position and will stop in that position when you let go of the pedal. The programming unit usually allows you to switch between stopping in either needle up or down position with a few button presses. However, it does NOT stop wherever you start. Some systems also have the "heel" feature which gives you an additional half turn when you tilt the pedal backwards with your heel, making both up and down needle positions easily accessible. It's not so easy to turn the needle positioning OFF on the systems I have tried. I wish they had a simple three-way switch like my old Viking has (up/off/down), but unfortunately they generally use button presses to navigate a cryptic, crude menu with no OFF option. On my motors I had to unplug the sensor to turn needle positioning off. Much of the above probably does not apply to fancy setups like Efka systems etc.

Hola Marius, The topic of servo motor variations and relative benefits deserves its own topic. From my personal experience here's what I found: There's only a handful of variations on these motors that seemingly come out of even fewer factories in China. All of them benefit from installing the smaller pulley (50mm) if you want to sew slow and leather. All of them can be combined with a speed reducer which will make them powerful enough to deal with your machine and leather. Some motors have optical sensors to translate pedal movement to speed, others have a magnetic sensor. I think the jk model has a magnetic sensor because it looks identical to my Consew branded motor. The optical sensors can be easily modified to improve pedal response - many post on that topic on YouTube and this website. No such modification is possible with magnetic sensors to my knowledge and pedal response is just okay but not great on my Consew motor. The build quality and materials vary, from plastic mounting brackets to cast aluminum parts. The JK version appears to the cast aluminum version, the ISM version appears to be plastic. The needle positioning should be accurate enough on either of them if you adjust/set the hand wheel position correctly. I tried two different servo motors with needle positioning and didn't like either of them, mainly because I set my sewing speed very slow at about a stitch per second and the needle positioning happens at normal speed. This means as I sew slowly and let go of the pedal, the motor speeds up to move the needle to next target needle position very quickly. I could not get used to the motor speeding up when I let go of the pedal and removed the needle position sensor. Personally I prefer to have good, gradual speed control at the low end and the motor to just stop exactly when I let go of the pedal. Reporting live from Hurtigruten ship MS Lofoten in the Norwegian Fjords . . .

Out of the two machines you're considering, I think the Adler is more desirable because it's an original as opposed to a clone, likely to retain its value better and allow you to sew thicker materials and user thicker threads. That Adler looks like it's in super nice condition! The Pfaff 335 clones will be more versatile for getting into tight spots on bags etc. Clones in general are more risky in terms of quality, longevity and value retention. The 335 clones don't have a drop bottom feed, the feed dogs moves back and forth, but it does not lower or raise as it moves (except for one subclass, which I doubt was ever cloned.) Both machines will work fine a with a servo motor with positioner capability. A speed reducer will translate excess speed into punching power and will make almost any motor powerful enough for both machines. In Europe, Sieck.de and College-sewing.co.uk keep coming up as good resource for sewing parts. I saw a nice Efka positioning motor in German eBay(http://www.ebay.de/itm/Efka-Variostop-380-V-Industrienahmaschinen-Motor-/201397421450?hash=item2ee438c58a) Local Oslo member Tor (user name Trox) has a vast knowledge and experience in all things sewing machines and has some very cool variable frequency speed control setups ( not sure if they are position sensor capable).

I don't know of a source for ready-cut real leather edging tape. There are a few choices for PU imitation leather edging tape that pop up in Google. Mass produced goods often use bound edges to hide the not-so-pretty layer edges of mixed materials or the raw edges of poorly tanned leather that is still blue in the center. On smaller scales, I'm guessing most leather crafters make their own leather edging tape from the same hide to make sure the leather color and texture match or coordinate with the main piece. A large cutting mat, metal ruler, a clamp or two, and a very sharp knife will go a long way to making nice straight strips in small batches. Personally I use a large, moderately expensive Logan 850 mat cutter I originally got for cutting photo mat stock to make up to 48" long precise strips of leather for handles, belts, etc. If you're going to make a lot of straps and have the money, there are special leather strip cutting machines available. Of course after you cut the strap, you probably also need to thin the leather with a skiving/splitting tool.

So you print the gradient on normal paper and then attach it to the clear plastic just for stiffness, right?

Just from looking at your pictures, it seems that your needle holder "might" work if you turn it around to that the screw is on the left and presses against the needle directly. As it is in the pictures, the geometry of the needle and bar may not allow it to press the needle properly against the needle bar to hold it tight.

The Kwok Hing website can be a pain to navigate. Here's a link to page I think you need: http://www.kwokhing.com/KHF/app/app_bi_1n.htm Once you find what you need or want, you'll need a bit of good luck finding somebody who can actually sell you the thing. Ordering directly from Kwok Hing can be challenging. Of course a google search for "Consew 206rb-1 binder" also comes up with a couple variations on the theme and a few buying options in the $50-60 range so you at least know what you're looking for. Our header advertisers may also stock these binders and be able to offer advice. Exactly which of the binders work for your application depends on the leather strip/tape you're trying to use for binding (how thick, how wide, etc.) If you make your own strip/tape you can customize it to fit whatever binder you get. If you plan to use ready-made leather tape, you'll have to get a binder that is compatible with that particular size leather strip/tape.

Nice work on the copper table frame, Mr. Sergeant! I like the walnut pedal, too - it looks very classy.

Thanks guys! I am busy making enough parts to put about a dozen or so of these table attachments together. They'll be for sale starting in late August when I get back from Europe

Oops, bad link. This one works: http://www.ebay.com/sch/uwe/m.html

Due to the lack of nice table attachments for 335 class machines I've been working on my own design over the past few weeks. Rather than doing a one-off, I've decided to put a little more manufacturing thought into it so I can make more if I want. It's far enough along to share a few sneak peek pictures. This version attaches directly to the arm via three knobs. The board is made from bamboo, the white insert is powder coated aluminum, and the bobbin access plate is polished steel (held in place by three magnets). The knob on top of the arm uses a little cup to isolate the pivoting feed dog arm from the table to avoid binding.The whole affair installs in under a minute without tools and is surprisingly solid. I'm still fine tuning a few details and will probably make a few extras to sell after get back from vacation (watch out Trox, I'm heading to Oslo!) Here are a few pictures of the current state of development:

I got some nice Kwok Hing presser feet in this week and put my extras on Ebay ( http://www.ebay.com/sch/uwe/m.html ) Below are a few pictures of the feet. Prices are $65 for the spring edge guide and $89 for the Left/Right feet on Ebay. 10% less via direct PM if you prefer.

Thanks Anthony! I had posted links for the presser feet earlier in the thread. I drilled the holes by hand, setting the machine on its side and shimming to have level drilling surface and the using the built-in water level guide on the back of my drill to make sure I'm drilling perfectly vertical (and holding my breath while doing it, haha).

Perhaps you can put a little shim or washer under the roller guide to raise it up a little so it won't interfere with the feed dog. The swing down guides are height adjustable so they don't touch the surface unless you want them to.

No user manual, sorry, but I came across this thread that talks about the Efka motors on a Pfaff 1445: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=43867 Efka manuals are available here: http://www.efka.net/pdf/index_en.php The Efka programming may be trickier than the threading.

That was a steal indeed for two working genuine Pfaffs with Efka motors - good for you! Post some pictures of your new arrivals when you get them set up so that we can admire them!

The Pfaff 335 was not designed to work with needles and thread as thick as you want to use. Even the heavier of the two Pfaff 335 versions only goes up to 120Nm needles, which is a size 19 needle and the most the machines will happily handle is perhaps 138 thread. I think neither you nor your machine will be happy with size 24 needles and 277 thread. That's 441 or 205 class territory. I have a Pfaff 335 and an Adler 205-370. The 205 picks up where the 335 leaves off, there's pretty much no overlap in their design specs. The 205 will not be happy doing fine threads, and the 335 will not be happy doing heavy threads. I'm attaching the relevant snippet from the 335 manual.