bikermutt07

Thanks a lot. I don't have a machine yet, but ran across this thread when reading another about the 31-20. I just realized that some of these old machines can work for light leather. This gives me a much cheaper option on a first machine. Something for thinner stuff now and later a big machine for the thicker stuff. Thanks again.

Thanks guys. But what about adding a servo? Is it doable?

If it wobbled it either it was off center or your dremel was worn out (bearings).

Pretty stuff.

Thanks.

I know this is an old old thread, but after reading it I have a few questions.. 1. Can you rig up a servo motor to these old machines? 2. The 31-15 seems more available right now. Will it work fine for light leather work? Bags, wallets and such. 3. Do they have reverse? Thanks.

Slaps forehead! I should have seen that. I've seen a thousand times.

Does the boss have reverse? Probably a dumb question, but I am a curious type.

Thanks. Is it something for saddles?

Well it looks really great.

Looks great. Did you dye it? Or pre finished? I like the color.

Glad you are finding an outlet for your artistic side. Keep up the great work.

Great job.

That is one of the best projects I have seen here. Beautiful design and execution. You really have something to be proud of.

Thanks.

Art. I'm a complete novice when it comes to sharpening. But I find the convex easier to maintain on my knives. Two years ago I watched a gazillion videos on sharpening. I just thought as a man, dangit, I should be able to sharpen a knife somehow someway. It was really frustrating. The first video that stuck out was some kid with a cheap buck lockblade. That kid took a cinder block, a red brick, and a little water and had hairs jumping off his arm in a matter of minutes. The second video was of a gentleman in Canada that sells fallkniven knives. One comment in the video went like this..... The first time "you" sharpen a knife it will take longer than normal. Your hand does certain little things that other peoples hands and machines don't do. What he was saying was that all my life I had given up on sharpening too quickly. I didn't take the time to acclimate the blade to "my" sharpening. That was a huge eyeopener for me. Since then I have been able to get my knives working sharp. Not sharp like you can accomplish, but sharp enough for my needs. I tend to lean more towards the sand paper mouse pad sharpening technique. I lay the blade flat and as I start to pull the blade across the paper I lift it up until I feel the edge grabbing the paper. This sets my angle. And it may not be right but it works for me. Then comes leather. I had to raise the bar. In the last two weeks I have finally been able to get my leather tools just about as sharp as they need to be. I have since abandoned the mouse pad and replaced it do The a piece of quartz (manmade granite) about 8x12. This has helped me get my edges cleaner. Two weeks ago I acquired a small Al Stohlman round knife. It was kind of sharp, but I hadn't played with it. Thirty minutes ago I read through this tutorial. I have never sharpened a round knife. The whole time I was sharpening it I was thinking "Boy am I messing this thing up". After stropping it, it cut a piece of Hermann Oak four ounce like it was paper. The I took it to some 8 ounce scrap. I can actually hold the piece up in the air and slice right through it. I was amazed. Now this is an Al Stohlman knife and I have heard bad things about those here. So, I don't know how easily it will keep that edge. But it's nice to think I can get it that sharp again. I'm quite proud of myself.

I'm curious to see this massive die or a pic of the item, if you don't mind.

Here is Mahogany and light tan mixed with water 50/50. The mixture looks a little muddy in the container but seems to go on well (this was applied with daubers). I think I will try it on a project soon.

Following this thread for the last few days reminded me to try something. In another thread we had mentioned maybe we could use spirit dyes with water. I think somebody brought up scotch and water mix well together. So just now I tried it on some scrap. This is fiebings chocolate mixed 50/50 with water. The two on the left are on hermann oak. The one on the right is the crappy Tandy leather I mentioned earlier. I think this looks more like what I think chocolate looks like. Ill report back after it dries.

Maybe look for some wrought iron?Midevul style hardware maybe?

Nice job.

If it's clothing, shoes, purses, or back packs that's usually chrome tanned leather. It's usually flexible. If it's knife sheaths, holters, saddles, or belts it's usually veg tanned. You will find lots of terms like bridle, latigo, strap, oiled, most of the time this is referring to veg tanned leather. Terms like pull up, garment, bag or chap leather will be referring to chrome tanned. This list is not complete, or even completely truthful(given that a lot of terms are interchanged from one store to the next. It's kind of a crap shoot you just have to struggle through in the beginning. Springfield will be a Great place to start. You can even email them and get help. Hope this helps a little. Keep having fun.

I have a cheap 3 ounce Tandy hide. The only way to dye it is dip dyeing in full strength. If I try and cut the dye with alcohol it comes out very weird looking. It looks a putrid shade of what ever color I'm using. The only way to make this leather look acceptable is dipping. My point? Sometimes it's the leather not the process. I always test on scraps now before I get too far into a project.

So why does it open on the side like that? Concealed carry Uzi?

Thanks, she's a scruffy puppy.