MADMAX22
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Everything posted by MADMAX22
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How are those bull shoulders (temper, quality). I was going to get a couple for some upcoming projects and have only gotten one before from someplace else and it was very stretchy and not good leather (looked fine just was very low quality). Curious how theres stack up.
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Guess I should get a facebook account one of these days ........ or not.
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Cuts like that I would say can be left as they are. Now the outside edges of that wallet I would burnish. If you absolutely must burnish them, if you have one of those drill burnishers with the pointed end that they use on holsters and such if the point is small enough makes burnishing the holes a snap. Now the lines I generally will hold the top flap portion and push it in a tad and push out from the back on the bottom one and burnish the bottom edge of the slit then reverse and do the top. I would use some saddle soap wetted with water then a small brush to rub on the wetted soap then onto just the edge of the leather. Not a 100% proper burnish but it worked for the most part. Kind of hard to explain but the above is what I did for the cut belt slits in some knife sheaths I made.
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I got one of those tandy knives a few years ago. I have used it 3 times I think. The last time was after I sharpened it up real good and still didnt like it.
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Amazon handmade is 15% (minimum of $1) for items sold. Also reading the fees info page it looks like right now they "wave" the professional selling thing but after this time in 2017 its a $40 monthly fee so it would be $40 a month plus 15% per sell. https://www.amazon.com/gp/help/customer/display.html/ref=asus_hnd_lp_fees?nodeId=201818920&ld=NSGoogle
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"Hard boiling" will make it harder. If you need it softer to mold it then you will need to wet it (cold water) or by casing it. This will allow you to mold it to whatever you want for the most part.
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Yeah boning usually refers to molding the leather with what was traditionally a bone tool. Atleast as far as I know. Like other terms it has probably been used for various different expressions.
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Thats kind of odd, pretty sure Bob knows what a needle positioner is must of been one of his inexperienced employees. The only issue I would see is where your stitching one layer of 5oz. That is the very bottom limit of the 4500. I have never used a needle positioner so I cant comment on there effectiveness. I know I get by without one. Im sure the more experienced guys will chime in soon with more suggestions.
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What cowboy dealer are you speaking of? I would talk to Bob here on the forums about what is best for your situation. When you say 1/4" 5oz do you mean one or the other or two layers of 5oz? I will say the 4500 is not really suited for wallets and thinner leather. It can do it but I think something like the 227r would be more up your ally for those items you describe. Ive done a few motorcycle seats stitching about 6oz of upholstery leather with 138 thread on my 4500 and it does ok but its not the easiest thing to do.
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You can use a glass slicker or even the plexiglass ones. Case your leather then run the slicker over it in one direction. It will tighten and smooth things out. A better option is just use some vegtan horse butt. It is very dense and smooth and makes an excellent strop.
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Forgot about the 2x72s. I built mine (welded together) and thru on a grizzly 1HP motor. It works pretty darn good. Dont get to make knives anymore but it is very useful for other things as well.
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And you think industrial sewing machines are expensive
MADMAX22 replied to graywolf's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
So a sewing machine that "could" make you money should be $35k? Not all of us drive 35k cars or 60k trucks. To me $2000 is a lot of money as I am sure it is to some of you. -
You can go on some upholstery forums but pre warning, these guys think everything is a trade secret and generally abstain DIY or people who dont own there own upholstery shop or work for one.
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stiching problem with Cobra class 4
MADMAX22 replied to collarobo's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
I would call Steve at cobra and he or one of the others there can get you squared away. If you dont want to talk with one of them personally I would watch one of his videos on setting up a cobra class 4. He goes thru all the various timing checks and what not. Do the simple things first like change the needle out and what not. Follow the video to double check everything is timed appropriately. Have you done anything so far. -
How about a price.
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Arbalet I like your style for making items and still enjoy looking at your leather work but that being said this isnt the for sale section.
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I got it somewhat figured out. The website has "bonded" in the selection description but what they really mean is "soft" or unbonded which shows up on the invoice after you have placed your order (if using PP). "Just return the thread for a full refund for the price of the thread", so basically I am going to be out $70 for a $120 order because there website isnt updated properly. Sounds legit. Live and learn I guess.
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Think I found the answer, the website I placed my order thru says bonded poly, the thread I received is "soft" poly. So much for the money spent for 2 day shipping and needing it for a project I gotta finish this weekend.
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Question for those that have used both bonded poly and bonded nylon. I just received my first order of bonded poly to use on some motorcycle seats, I have always used the bonded nylon in my machines. Are you suppose to be able to untwist the bonded poly easily? I know with the nylon Ive got ya have a pretty hard time untwisting the individual threads, this poly I got ya just have to backtwist with your fingers and it unravels. Thanks for your input.
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NP and thanks. One thing I forgot to add is that I dont dunk these in water or anything. The exotic is glued to the flesh side of the vegtan so you have the nice smooth grain side for the inside of the sheath then I just sponge or spray the grain side and let it sit for a while. Kind of like casing in a way. I try and not over do it with the water.
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Thanks. This stuff was about 3-4 oz. I would put the padding on, glue on the suede, cut it somewhat close (within half a inch of the veg tan) then stitch. After it was stitched and the glue cured over night I would take a freshly stropped edge beveler and bevel the suede edge which also cut off the excess. The suede wouldnt bunch up as bad with a sharp beveler and with that half inch or so of extra it would give a little bit of rigidity while cutting/beveling. After that first cut/bevel I would go back again and basically roll the beveler more toward the suede edge to cut any excess left over and get the bevel as close as possible. Hope this makes sense, hard to explain in words. Wanted to add, its not going to be perfect like two pieces of veg. But it also can look decent with a little care.
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I use suede backing on rifle slings I use to make. Basically I would glue and stitch like normal, then use the edger on both sides (vegtan and suede), on the suede side I would edge back as much as possible. Then I do my burnishing like normal - dye, burnish, wax mix rubbed on, burnish, verify they look good, then when I seal the work with neatlac or a wax/oil mix I do the edges as well. Here is a link to a few I made Also the only picture I really had of the edges for one of them.
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Did you get a price for the 30 quantity? I have never asked about the price on them, it was on a price list I got a long time ago but prices from 2007 dont really transfer to prices today unfortunately. The ones from across the water look good and the different colors are a nice option but sure the shipping would kill the deal, plus returning anything is out of the question.
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http://www.hermannoakleather.com/products-and-pricing/misc-leathers-copy-20140722145318 Have never ordered from these guys http://www.dangerousthreads.com/leather-side-veg-tan-split-full-side-medium-weight-20-square-feet/ From across the pond I think http://www.metropolitanleather.com/Vegetable-tanned-split Forgot to add I think zackwhite carries veg splits but I have not ordered from them in a long time after getting some very poor quality leather a while back.
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Haha yeah although I would say the one that you can HT properly and repeatedly is the most important then the one that you can convince your customer that it will do the job of cutting down trees and butchering 10 moose without being sharpened and still look like new after doing it.