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Sonydaze

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Everything posted by Sonydaze

  1. Dilute with water by 50% then spray it. Everything else I have tried has left me frustrated.
  2. Pictures here: http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/75053-uwes-441-table-installation-on-an-artisan/
  3. I had a dealer supplied table and it always annoyed me... poor fit, awkward bobbin changes and not attractive. I got one of Uwe's tables and am very happy with it. Bobbin changes are much easier with his ingenious, magnetically attached plate over the bobbin.
  4. I would try this 1st. Loosen the set screws on the drive wheel, push the bobbin winder in and move the drive wheel over until you get firm contact. Tighten screws. Check to see if it is clear from the driven wheel when the bobbin winder is released. Then you can likely find a replacement part at your leisure and put it on the wall until next time. Parts for me are 4 hours away, including a ferry ride or wait for the mail, so I have had to learn alternative fixes. lol
  5. I think taking your blade to someone that does scissors and knives is risky unless they have experience with splitter blades. I agree with Bruce, someone that is good at sharpening planer blades would be a better choice to try. End of the day, I would sent it to someone that is known to be able to correctly sharpen my splitter blade, getting back a poorly sharpened blade can be much worse than a dull blade, especially if you end up having to replace your blade. I have a Tormek sharpening system and was able to adapt their planer blade jig to sharpen my splitter blades. However knowing how long it takes me to sharpen a blade, I think Bruce's offer of $15-20 to sharpen your blade is a very reasonable cost. If I wasn't in a different country, I would likely use his service and use the time saved to work on other things.
  6. We all have to do our own math on what is the best choice for individual businesses. The title on the thread is about mass production. Although I understand 'mass' is a word that can have greatly varying connotative values.
  7. I just noticed that the Thread Exchange has added some pages with good needle information: http://www.thethreadexchange.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=TTE&Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=ndl-sys There is also a thread to needle guide and a needle guide.
  8. They are often too slow for production. There are also pneumatic and manual presses but again, not that fast. Aside from the cycle rate of the clicker, being able to quickly place both your hide and die makes for considerable time savings.
  9. A clicker takes up the space of a pallet (they often live on them because of their weight) and often need 240 volt 3 phase power. Single phase can be stepped up with a phase converter or inverter. Clicking is usually the fastest but with this application you will have a bit more waste leather vs, cutting into lengths. One advantage is that you could have your clicker die made so it also punches the holes for sewing as it cuts your basic shape.
  10. I think you will find it kind of gratifying to see your work on the screen. But as I mentioned, you usually have to watch fast as the image never stays anywhere very long.
  11. Seeing your work on the big screen is a nice feeling. I made most of the leather for the Red Room in Fifty Shades of Grey and enjoyed seeing how it looked in the movie...not that anything was visible for very long. lol
  12. I use Triflow on my harness machine but am careful to wipe down the feet before sewing. For most of my machines, I use good ol' sewing machine oil.
  13. You may want to look at this company: Tempco Power Wave. 5hp. $389 I bought one of their three horse power ones several years ago and it has been problem free.
  14. I finally qualified for all of the discounts! 65 last September.
  15. My understanding: Asian manufactured equipment is subject to duties (they are not covered by nafta and there are no free trade agreements with China or Taiwan). If you are out of Canada for over 48 hours you can be exempt for up to $800 Canadian if you import it personally... as in not for your business. You should find the tariff code for the machine and country of origin so you know where you stand if the customs officer happens to feel strict when you cross. https://www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca/trade-commerce/tariff-tarif/menu-eng.html
  16. Sonydaze

    Landis 12

    That's what I thought. If I had use for it, I'd be all over it.
  17. If you think the Sunstar is the right type of machine for you, it is only an hour away. I would contact the seller and see if I could take it for a test drive... bring some of the materials you plan on sewing on it and see how it actually sews (you may need to bring thread as well). Sew on the machine using both forward and reverse, change the stitch length around. If it sews well and doesn't make any unusual noises, it is likely fine. I like to get a good look at the point of the hook, to see if it is worn or burred. In the pictures, the machine looks close to new. The foot pedals don't show much wear and the paint on the cylinder arm doesn't look worn. It already has a servo motor on it, which you would end up changing to if you bought a machine with a clutch motor. The Juki that Uwe suggested looks good as well. I would look at it too if possible.
  18. I run a couple of Sunstar KM 590BL machines fairly hard (for many years) and they have proven to me to be good machines. The few parts I've needed were easy to get. That being said, I buy my machines used and certainly wouldn't turn down a good deal on a Juki.
  19. Sonydaze

    Landis 12

    I saw this on Craigslist andI thought someone might be interested: https://vancouver.craigslist.ca/van/for/d/landis-12/6390721698.html I'm not the seller and I've never seen the machine...it just looks like a good price for someone that needs it.
  20. I use a belt sander for straight edges, a disk sander for convex edges and a spindle sander for concave edges. They work great! If you get a bench top spindle sander as well as a bench top belt/disc sander, you are set. If you don't want leather dust everywhere, be sure to use a shop vac on their dust ports.
  21. It is likely a Sunstar (made in Korea). They are a decent machine. If you talk to Marc at Mason Sewing, I'm sure he can give you more info. It is a bottom feed (with reverse), assuming it is in good condition and still has a clutch motor on it, I wouldn't pay over $300 for it. If you are sewing leather or heavier materials, I would wait until you can get a walking foot machine.
  22. Sonydaze

    Servo motor

    Your profile doesn't tell what part of Canada you are in but on the west coast I look to Mason Sewing Company for my servo motors and parts. Talk to Marc, he is very helpful and knowledgeable. https://www.masonsewingmachine.ca/ As far as the used clutch motors, I have about 15 of them in storage. I haven't been able to figure out a use for them yet.
  23. http://www.omacsrl.com/products/preparation/folding-machine/edgefolder-star-3000/ It doesn't glue or apply double sided tape but it does fold. Should be available from Campbell Randall.
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