roo4u

well i dont tend to make leashes out of vegtan...it will get a bit stiff if it gets wet and is not conditioned well. my preference for leashes is 9-11 oz latigo or a nice bridle leather in similar weight although you can go one weight lower for smaller dogs. it looks to me like the slits for your braids are a bit long...it makes it look loose and untidy. also there is no need to stitch if your braid is snugged up a bit....i did occasionally use a rivet on the end if the customer asked or it was an exceptionally heavy leash to be used for schutzhund or similar as sometimes the heavy leather needs to wear in before it sits nicely in the braid. perhaps others can comment on the stitching as i am no pro there. i believe if you search on this forum you will find a link to a tutorial on how to do those split braids that explains it well... good luck :-)

i suggest using a bridle leather under and then use your vegtan tooling leather over the top this will give you a non stretch base. if you want a soft layer next to dog then sandwich bridle between layers, doesnt have to be real heavy. also as suggested teach dog not to pull. i disagree with the need for treats to train this however. I can typically teach a dog not to pull in just a few minutes with just a choke chain, or sometimes just a flat collar just depends on the hardness of the dog. prong collars have to be used a specific way and are not for the novice user.

I am a braider...i consider myself an artist. to me if you work in a factory making leathergoods same thing over and over you are just a leatherworker but if you make one piece at a time and strive to improve with every project you do, maybe looking to create something original you are an artist.

nope not marlin...however henry makes that gun and it is so sweet!

it is fear of punishment that keeps most people honest. but i believe it is unethical to create something like a braided item and know that you are copying things you learned from someone else and then tell the rest of the world if you copy me i will sue you. the number of people in the world with integrity seems to be shrinking quickly. very sad tracy

found a few examples of freds saddles online but no info on the maker...just realized i found this exact saddle on craigslist lol

that is most commonly called split braiding google that and you will find what you are looking for. this braid is used to attach saddle strings and i found multiple tutorials online. good luck

just a bit about prong collars...they are not intended to be used as a single collar they are a correction device but when properly applied to the dog. prong collars are meant to be used high up on the dogs neck with a buckle collar below them. two leashes should be used a short leash on the prong for the correction and your regular leash on the flat collar for general use. this method keeps handler from accidentally inflicting pain on the dog if the dog misbehaves. control should be kept with the flat collar while the short corrections are made with the prong collar. not all trainers or handlers are proficient enough with the correct use of these collars. i do not recommend anyone to use one on their first problem dog without some guidance from an experienced handler or trainer.

you can roll little things like bracelets with just your hand on a hard surface...then pull it to stretch the braid tight. as to the braid back im not sure if there is anything online. i learned from a bruce grant book on braiding. if i can get something braided i will try to post a tutorial on how i do my back braids.

those lil round key fob knots are called monkey fist knots used by sailors on the end of a line to give it weight for throwing. they were sometimes done around a small lead ball to add weight if the line had to be thrown long distances. very easy to do...tutorials can be found online just google monkey fist knot.

for my 4 strand bracelets i do a loop and braid the ends back into the braid so that the loop is also a 4 strand instead of the single stand loop you have there. also you need to roll and stretch your braid before you do final finishing because of the braid stretching and tightening down as you describe. roll braid well and then pull on it to get it stretched then do your size measurement and this will ensure a longer lasting fit. also all leather stretches..even kangaroo with has the highest tensile strength will stretch as it ages and wears.

i spose that is true but problem i have with some of the nylon products i have tried is they collect dust and dirt very quickly due to the texture of the stuff. tuff does have some neat stuff though.

i very much like the look of that mag holder thanks plinkercases for that..im about to try practical shooting and need to carry multiple mags for my bersa. im also think this would work for the mags for my marlin 795 if i get the chance to shoot at an appleseed id need to have approx 10 loaded mags....need to get crafting.

well his braiding is not original nor are his color combos. some of his products are original just because he has some custom metal items he adds to the braiding. the statement about copyright on his website made is seem as if all of the items he braided were his original designs and therefore protected by copyright law. this is of course impossible for the most part just because of how long braiding has been around. i do see that he has a new design to his website and has removed the bit about copyright.

here is a situation i recently came across regarding copyrights. i am a braider and surf the internet once in a while to look at other braiders work...not to copy but just as an interest, never know when you might come across some interesting new knot or braid to learn. i came across a site selling braided goods. the braider states on his website that all his works are covered under copyright law but also states he learned to braid from same book i learned from. none of his designs are original as far as the braiding goes so how can he claim copyright on something that has been done for thousands of years? it boggles the mind that someone would even try that.

oh ya n you havent really lived til you have jabbed a pointy ended edger into some part of your hand. i never ever cussed in my life until i became a leather worker. lol

that looks like an equitation saddle to me. designed to keep you sitting deep in the seat and not be able to move fwd at all. used for western equitation classes at horse shows. i dont show so not even sure they still have that class anymore.

hi..and welcome to braiding. i agree with cowboycolonel...i learned an awful lot from bruce grants books a must for your braiding library. now as to your question i suggest you tape them or use rubber bands to keep them attached to top but no need to be at angle to start just attach them to top of core. then start your braid..at first it will look a little odd as it wont fill in completely all the way around in first couple passes but if you are braiding in correct sequence then it will start to look right. nice thing about it is easy undo and start over if needed. as to materials, you can braid with anything. i have even braided with bailing twine. hope that helps

many uses....a romal on romal reins is just a big attached quirt....if using on horseback it can be used to fend off other animals, move cattle, make ur horse go faster or behave itself.

when we braid show leads with beads i use what bruce grant calls a rein knot to secure beads and for decorative small knots. i think it is shown in all his books. if you make it with small lace it is much smaller than a turks head.

perhaps try posting in the saddlemakers section.....im not sure how many of the braiders on here do that type of work....

only started in november? wow...nice work

Ooooh....purdy!!!

there is a big difference...especially with the commercially cut lace. commercially cut lace is much harder than hand cut lace and the edges do not roll smooth. so when the lead gets pulled through your hand the edges are very hard and the lead feels rough. with the hand cut lace you can roll them out fairly well so that they feel smoother than they are, but the commercial lace is sprayed with a finish so that it cuts smoothly through the machinery.