Tugadude

Nice work! Perfect example of what to do with scrap leather. I can imagine you also leaving an opening to slip a folded piece of cash into for emergencies. Maybe instead of a rivet you use a snap?

Very cool. I didn't know about the acid process. I guess I assumed that the grinding and/or polishing would suffice. Have you attempted to use the Damascus for a blade? I saw some that had been done by I think a Japanese or Korean manufacturer that looked beautiful.

Nice work Rossr. I have always admired folks that had multiple skills and the ability to combine them. Is that Damascus steel I see? Based upon the shape of the handle I'll be it fits perfectly in the hand.

I would say that for the irons he was demonstrating that a 0.8mm would be appropriate. Nigel Armitage does publish his opinions on thread sizing for the various sized pricking irons and stitching chisels. He actually test drove them and compared them with thread sizes. He has all of the major brands covered at this point.

I just came across this video and I think it does a good job of explaining the mechanics of the saddle stitch. He teaches it with a cast, which is good for some types of leather and thicknesses but not desirable on all. The other thing about the video is the choice of thread. In my opinion he should have sized up for those irons. There is too much of the slit showing after the stitching for my taste.

This has been on my mind a lot the past week or so. You are in my prayers.

Beautiful job on the bag! Is that an embossed leather or the real skin? If real it must have cost a fortune, or in England is that "donkeys"? By tradition, I didn't mean the saddle stitch itself, but rather the importance of it being slanted. Some believe that to be a "true" saddle stitch, the threads must behave in a manner as to create a slanted stitch. They contend that a flat, or straight stitch just doesn't pass muster. I'm not saying I take it that far, but I am saying that I STRIVE to create the slant. I am not always successful. Sometimes I am. And sometimes only on one side! But I keep trying.

There's a lot of truth in what you said there. Even Mr. Armitage's stance on chisels has softened. I think he learned that they have value. The new styles of stitching chisels make decent stitching attainable to beginners. So that is progress!

Welcome! There is an area where a lot of great information is stored for beginners. Check out things like edge finishing, stitching, etc. You can also search for threads on tools for beginners and even threads on.....thread! Ask questions as they come up. We all started somewhere, don't be shy.

Toxo, you are correct that you can still get a slant with a round hole. Nigel Armitage demonstrates this in one of his videos. The most important thing is to have a presentable stitch. Whether that is flat or slanted is then secondary. Funny you mention purist. On another forum unrelated to leatherwork, I've had discussions of my tendency towards tradition. For example, I still believe there is value in learning how to write in cursive. Many schools aren't teaching it anymore. Whether you use it or not, I still would teach it. Do you need it? Obviously not. So how is that related to stitching? Only in that if you accept that slanted is traditional (and perhaps there is argument there) then some will want to strive to achieve it. Are they right? Not any more than those who espouse we write out things in cursive. To each his or her own as they say.

Glad you appreciate my comments. They were meant to encourage, not so much critique. My point about it being a process is to remind that there are a lot of ingredients that result in the finished product. This was from a briefcase I made for my son to take to college 3 years ago. I just saw it yesterday as he is home visiting. It still looks the same. A little patina here and there, but in remarkable shape for the abuse I know it has received. This was the result of Tandy's Craftool irons, the black diamond chisels that they sell. I used the 2mm on this one. Then I used a thread they sell as waxed sewing thread for awls, the awls that have the thread inside. I don't own one of those awls, but this thread is pretty good, plenty strong and I like the color. It isn't white, but sort of a "straw" color I would say. As far as size, it is probably around 0.8mm. I used the John James #4 needles I think. It was 3 years ago! BTW, I didn't burnish any of the edges on his bag and am glad because they have held up great. They look just the same as when I made it. If I had burnished and/or used some sort of edge coat, I think they'd look worse for wear.

This. I'll bet it would do a very nice job especially on things like watch straps, belts, etc.

Stitching is a process. In addition to the right materials, the technique of stitching is crucial to getting a good stitch. It looks clear to me that you are losing needle priority and that is causing the wavy line of stitching. Your stitches are slanted, albeit mildly, but the problem is consistency. Some are slanted, some are flat. Strive for uniformity. The way to accomplish that is to follow the same procedure for each stitch. If you haven't, I urge you to look at Nigel Armitage's videos on youtube. He covers needles, thread, chisels, etc. The round hole tool you have is probably designed for lacing, not stitching. I suggest the diamond chisels. The one you have is fine. Get some smaller thread and JJ needles. Good luck!

I assume you are meaning the blade itself and not the haft? The blades from Barry King get good reviews. Douglas used to be noted for quality, but availability is questionable. Most any awl blade of decent quality can be made into a workable tool with proper sharpening and polishing. There are youtube guides from Nigel Armitage and others that show techniques for fashioning a good awl.

Oh, I forgot about the needles. I think #2 and #4 will stand you in good stead. That is another thing Nigel addresses in some of his videos. Good luck!

Some leatherwork is unfortunately a matter of trial and error. However, we should be able to give you some help. I will tell you that some of these questions are able to be found with a search of the forum. For other questions, specifically about stitching chisels, you can look at Nigel Armitage's website and his youtube videos. On Nigels website, armitageleather.com, he has posted tons of reviews of both pricking irons and stitching chisels. He goes into detail on their sizes, stitches per inch and he even recommends what size of thread works best with each tool. Nigel, and a lot of leatherworkers, love Ritza 25 "Tiger Thread". It is excellent, available in several sizes and a lot of color choices. Although in general, you can get by with black, white and tan. At least I do. Those specific chisels are not ones I have used. I own two types of Tandy chisels, the black Craftool ones and the stainless steel Craftool Pro. They both are really good. Just judging by the looks of those chisels, I'm thinking you'd be safe with a 0.8mm thread. Perhaps up to a 1.0mm for the widely-spaced chisels. But again, trial and error. You might prefer a "chunky" look, at least on some items, or you might prefer a more refined stitch. Hope that helps a little bit.

chrisash, you are a good man, thanks for this as I wasn't following the developments. I am now. My prayers are with all of our friends "down under" and with all of the members of this forum that they have a blessed Christmas. In Him, Ray

You can make a heck of a coin purse out of mouse hides. Sure, they look a bit cheesy, but so what? Welcome to the forum Sraab!

Great first project! You obviously have been studying means and methods and have jumped in ready to swim. Keep learning and reaching, raising your own bar. I learn something with every project or at least try to.

NeilMott, I suggest you look at (if you haven't) Nigel Armitage's youtube videos on stitching. He covers a lot of the basics and anyone can learn a lot by watching him. He covers the traditional style pricking iron and awl stitching as well as over a dozen stitching chisels including the KS Blades chisels. However, he demonstrates the ones with slanted teeth. As I read some of the answers here I was reminded that experience is the best teacher. Some of the advice clearly works for the person giving it, but to find the look that makes you happy you are going to have to sort it out yourself. I'm not saying that any of the advice is wrong, but I found points on which I agreed and points on which I didn't. I prefer slanted stitching and try my best to achieve it all the time, front and back. Sometimes I'm more successful than others. The type of leather matters, the thickness matters, the stiffness matters. Then you add the irons, the thread, your stitching style and it really is a complicated matter. In the end, find what works for you, what looks acceptable to your eye and appeals to your taste.

So I did a little googling on the prison and found some fascinating information. If you have the time it is worth looking up. Butch Cassidy spent some time in the Wyoming Frontier Prison back in the day, before he formed the Wild Bunch.

Fascinating stuff! Shame that it all came to a screeching halt.

If you have a particular leather whose backside is comfortable against the skin, then go ahead and skive away. Personally, I've made them both ways and I think they each have their strengths. If you aren't going to stitch all the way down the sides, then a single, solid piece is obviously better because otherwise you have to rely 100% on adhesive and I wouldn't. I'm not in any way saying that RockyAussie's method is not good, not in the least. It is just that my expertise at gluing is lacking and I couldn't count on the type of results he gets. His work is stellar.

I love it and I like the lining color contrasting with the exterior. As far as the scuffs, I tend to like them so long as they are patina. In other words, when stuff gets used for its intended purpose, it is going to show wear. That doesn't bother me on most stuff. Shoes are an exception. Shoes should always looks as good as possible, but I digress. I like the idea of the closure, I presume it is magnetic by the looks of it? I would have never thought of doing that, but I think it looks great. That would be a nice place to put a monogram or something to personalize it. Also interesting that you have the handle on one side only. I guess it isn't good or bad, just a design choice. Was it intentional or were you following an existing design?

Ah , the conundrum, seems lots of folk want something to look worn without the wearing. I guess I understand the appeal. But does it really make sense to put a pristine watch onto a band that looks like it has been through the war? Oh well, I'll leave that to others to decide. Besides, there are companies that are also adding faux patina to watches, including Timex believe it or not. So there is that. I think those that own airbrushes often do a good job with the color fading. They tend to make items darker around the edges and it adds to the "vintage" aesthetic. So that would be a start. I'm sure you could also dye in a lighter color to begin with and then go with a darker concentration around the edges and just use a rag or dauber. The scuffing and such has to be fairly severe as you've found out. Many leathers, especially those with lots of oils and waxes in them can hide blemishes when they are rubbed. Or at least that's my experience.