Tugadude

Awesome, so glad it helped!

I use a hammer purchased from Harbor Freight with the screw on faces. Several are dense plastic and there is good weight with no bounce.

Nice score. I take it for granite also.

I hope you didn't think I was accusing you of something. Not my intent! I was wondering if you saw someone selling goods as handmade and were questioning the validity. There really are gray areas. My point about the tools was to say that just because you use a powered device should not immediately disqualify a product as being handmade. Burnishing can be done with a stick or a motorized wheel. Does it matter? I cut the leather with a knife, dye it, sew it then burnish with a Dremel tool. Is it suddenly not handmade? https://www.bigcommerce.com/ecommerce-answers/how-define-handmade-items/

Question has been tossed about in many threads. Handmade can mean different things to different people but you asked what it means to us. I think it means something that is made by someone mainly without use of high-production machinery. Now that doesn't mean that if you use a motorized slicker it isn't handmade. It also doesn't mean if you use a fileteuse it isn't handmade. It doesn't mean if you cut your leather components out with a clicker it isn't handmade. I doesn't mean if you use an airgun to apply dye and/or sealer it isn't handmade. It doesn't mean that punching holes with a drill press nullifies it as being handmade. But the basic work should be done by hand. Handwork versus automation is a possible definition. Handwork carries with it the notion of being "better" than something that is mass-produced. That doesn't necessarily translate into reality. It depends upon who is doing the handiwork and how good the machines are which produce the mass. Is there a "back story" to your question. Is someone stating that work is handmade and you question it due to their use of machinery. See this link for various opinions. You've uncovered part of the irony of the original question

AlexD, this isn't what you asked but I thought I'd throw it out there anyway. If I lived in the UK, I'd give serious consideration to enrolling in classes with Nigel Armitage. Nigel provided "hands-on" instruction in various techniques related to leatherwork. If I lived within a reasonable distance, I'd have already signed up. https://www.armitageleather.com/ Nigel is a master craftsman and a trained instructor. You can view numerous videos of his if you haven't found them already. His saddle stitching videos are great. He also demonstrates a lot of basic techniques, some you might use rarely but will want to know how to do. Thanks my $.02 except to say good luck!

Great job. I too appreciate the splashes of color. She'll be truly proud to carry that.

I like

Nigel has helped more people than he knows. I'm glad he checks in here from time-to-time. He will likely see your post. It is right to give thanks where they are due. I owe whatever proficiency I've developed with stitching to Nigel's training videos. I strive to get better and better so as to not make him look bad!

Yes, happy to help. They are great for centering snaps on things and pretty much any time you need to keep an even margin on both sides of a component.

Do yourself a favor and buy a clear centering ruler. Mine also has hole spacing guides on it.

Wing dividers for really thin leather. On other projects I've used creasers and groovers. If you don't use too much pressure a groover makes a scratch, not a groove. If you want recessed stitching use a groover and remove leather. Just making a dent is no good because the leather will expand eventually, eliminating the recess.

Here is the video I spoke of. He mentions techniques on other videos too, but this one is specific to the issue at hand.

Remember you can punch through layers separately and then line them up. Nigel demonstrates this on a youtube video. Or as recommended above, punch through two layers and then use an awl to finish up.

Actually that is possible. I posted a seamless dice cup on here a while back and asked folks how it was done. It was one piece, seamless. The consensus was that it was likely made from leather derived from a bull scrotum.

That, sir is a piece to be proud of. The contrast between the two leathers is amazing. That is my cup of tea if you will. I like the closure system on the flap. Funny how there are so many ways to accomplish it. That one is pretty cool and there really is no hardware to fail, etc. If carrying that around doesn't generate interest and people wanting one for their own I'll be amazed. Good job!

Timbo, I'm glad that your awl hafts are selling now. Personally, I like the "repurposed" look of the scratch awls, but everybody's taste is different obviously. For me, awls are tough to buy without a "test drive". What feels good to some doesn't to others. As you know, there are a lot of variations in awl hafts and there are even "ergonomic" shapes that supposedly fit the hand better. Your awls are certainly a great value at the current price. I'm sure that you don't want to have to discount them though. One thing you might consider is reducing the variety down to perhaps three models. Those models can vary a bit in size so that there is a choice for those with small hands and a choice or two for those with larger hands. I'm only speaking for myself, but sometimes when I'm faced with too many choices I just move on. Good luck in whatever route you choose.

My suggestion would be to inform C.S. Osborne. The seller may have a 30 day warranty or return policy but I'm sure the maker wants to make it right with the end users. I'd let them know anyway because if you don't how are they going to know. Perhaps this isn't the only one that had this happen. I've worked for manufacturers and the last thing we want to hear is that the customer has had this issue multiple times. Well then why didn't they contact us the first time?

Sure, it will give you a basic pattern, but be aware that because it might be sewn with very tight margins (the nylon one) you may need to add a bit of leather so that you have room for a proper stitching line. If you simply lay them out and cut to the exact size, by the time you go to stitch the edges the pockets may end up too tight. So use it as a "guide" rather than a true template. Obviously there are other things you can co this with. Many here have taken apart an old purse or satchel in order to use it as a pattern. It works and it helps.\ Good luck! BTW, I forgot to mention turned or rolled edges. If you plan on those make certain to add the required dimension.

Personally, no. I merely edge bevel and crease the edge. If you do roll the edge, make sure to skive it down to about 1/2 the thickness of the leather to avoid bulk. I'm thinking that with a strong glue you probably can get away without stitching since the edges will be secured. I'm sure that others will have experience in that regard to share.

You know what? I didn't even think of that. I hand stitch everything so it is easier to get a close margin. Thanks for pointing that out to me!

Well I'd be pretty pleased if that were my first attempt. Good work there. Progress will come and soon you will be turning out even better results. The only thing that really jumps out at me and it is taste rather than rule, but I think the stitching could be tighter to the moulded portions.

This is great advice. Dive in and do something no matter how small. My entry into this craft began when I wanted to make a leather sheath for a stylus that I was using for an iPad. Well, I stopped using a stylus altogether and now I can easily make briefcases, purses, pretty much anything. So don't feel like you have to take on a big project right away. How about a coin purse as Rockoboy suggested, or a simple card holder. You will learn all of the basic skills needed and can chart your progress. I have kept a bunch of my early attempts at wallets and card holders. It is fun to go back and look at some of them. Some I smile, some I laugh and some I am still proud of. But that's the point, progress. Go for it! We're here to help! P.S. Forgot to say, look around for economy grades of leather for practice. Usually you can get a big piece that has a few issues but it will have tons of areas which are perfect. By doing small projects you can get this grade and find lots of usable leather. When you graduate to large items such as briefcases, then get better grades.

There is a section of this website for patterns and templates. Did you look there? That is a pretty basic style and shouldn't be too difficult to make up on your own. I would begin by finding out the overall dimensions and working from there. The outer shell needs to be about 3/8" to 1/2" longer than the inside. Since this is thin leather probably closer to 3/8". The pockets can be worked out by looking at an existing wallet and/or using a credit card as a guide. Are you going to do the turned edge as shown? Remember to leave extra material on the outer shell to allow for that.

Nice job on the bag! I like the rolled edge, you executed that very nicely. Regarding the scratches, do they buff out? If so, then it is just a matter of maintenance. Some like the "patina" that bags develop and actually want them to look used. To each his/her own I guess. I have a canvas briefcase that I was given as a thank you by an industry organization. I actually carry it daily to work. It has what I believe are nylon web straps and I have to tell you they look great and are holding up extremely well about 3 years in now. The bag is made by Carhartt so it is expected to be decent quality. I'm not a huge fan of the shoulder pad and I keep telling myself that I need to fashion one out of leather as a replacement but then I get onto something else. In the right place, I think fabric straps make sense. There is a nice look to be attained by mixing materials sometimes. Color and texture play into it as well. There are some pieces I've seen that I almost recoiled at because they looked garish or the colors weren't right or whatever. The key is finding the right strap, color, thickness, width, etc. I agree that many straps look cheap. The one on my bag does not.