dikman

I cut the fingers off an old pair of (riggers) gloves and use one on each little finger. Helps to protect the fingers when pulling the thread (until your fingers toughen up ).

Very nice. Do you have a photo of the back of the holster?

Simple and elegant.

I built a vacuum system some time ago to stabilize wooden knife handles - never used it! The pump was made from a stand-alone single cylinder compressor head, belt driven from an old motor. I modified the input to the compressor head so that I could couple an air hose to it so it became a vacuum pump. It can pull 28" of mercury, which is the max vacuum I can get for my elevation. For the tank I used a 20 lb. propane tank, cut in half and welded a ring around the rim to fit a rubber seal. The top connection was adapted to fit a vacuum gauge and release valve and a nut was welded on the bottom half to fit the evacuation hose and a valve to close it off. I also made a wooden plate to fit in the bottom half so that I could use it for vac-forming, but haven't had a need for it yet. I suppose I might find a use for it one day.....

One of my machines came with a very old Singer clutch motor, it looks a bit the worse for wear but still works well - unfortunately, I lack the skill to control it, even with a speed reducer!! As Eric said most of these Chinese servos are perfectly adequate (and affordable) for we hobbyists. While it would be nice to have a high-end servo, needing three meant it was not even a consideration. I'm more than happy with my $200 Chinese servos, they're perfectly adequate for my needs.

I found the same thing with the needle positioner and because I sew very slow decided to remove it. I can control the needle position well enough without it. Interestingly, I can't do the "pencil mod" on mine because the design is different (doesn't have the gradient piece inside). I have 500W and 750W motors, same brand, and at least the 750W is physically bigger on the outside .

Ok, NOW it makes sense - but I think you would have been better off just showing the holster, seeing that the belt isn't meant as part of the rig. (Yes, I know, I'm being picky).

Nice, but a percussion cap revolver with cartridge loops on the belt?

No dye? Came out better than mine when I just used neatsfoot oil. Must be the leather, I guess. Whole rig looks very neat.

Very nice holster (did you notice the snap is crooked?). One way of avoiding the problem would be to use a hammer thong instead of a strap? Anyhow, good job.

I reckon because it doesn't have reverse or a servo you might be able to knock the price down! Sounds like a pretty good deal and would be a nice cheap intro to industrial sewing machines.

Very nice! While it's not my style, it's always good to see other designs to show what can be done. What colour dye?

Thanks for that, I'll probably have to ask them to get it in as I haven't seen it on the shelf.

I have one and have fitted a servo AND speed reducer! It crawls along nicely. It will do belts fine, and probably knife sheathes, but I wouldn't expect it to do a typical folded over holster (I've decided to only handstitch my holsters as I think it gives a stronger piece). As Wiz said, 3/8" is pretty much the limit. It's a nice machine and has reverse, which is very handy. I do my own servicing/repairs so can't comment on costs if you have it done, but I've found it pretty easy to work on - once you understand how it works!!

Nice. I made my last lot as natural, no staining just oil/wax. I think I like the walnut better, as it looks more natural than natural . Is it Feibings dye?

Forgot to ask, what colour stain did you use (or is it natural)?

On the inside of the pulley there should be two flats, put a spanner on them to hold the pulley and take off the nut on the front. The pulley should pull off, it has a slotted key-way to locate it on the shaft. Check the shaft diameter, most of them are 15 mm, if so it's a standard size for most motors and pulleys are readily available via ebay.

I had the same problem with the 111WSV77 that I bought. I ended up comparing images of similar looking machines on google until I found some that looked the same and then downloaded manuals/parts lists for them. By working through the specifications/parts I eventually found that it was, to all intents and purposes, the same as a 111W153. Many of the parts had different part numbers but appeared to be the same parts. While there appear to be lots of SV models there's virtually no information available for them.

Looks very nice, LumpenDoodle. I was wondering why someone would want the holster soft. My research thus far has shown that most "original" holsters of the Old West were indeed soft leather, as they were intended to enclose and protect a gun (a fast draw didn't seem to be a concern). The modern need (single action shooting etc), however, really requires a very stiff holster, shaped to the gun and with very little retention (like you appear to be making). So I'm a bit puzzled. Lots of neatsfoot oil will definitely soften it, but could also turn it into a shapeless lump! If someone wants a soft holster the best way is probably to use thin leather with no lining?

I'm with mike and Uwe, looks like it could be more trouble than it's worth. Plus because of its age some of those components could be a bit suspect (old capacitors, for example, tend to dry out over time). If you want a needle positioning system I reckon you'd be better off buying a servo with the NPS option. I did that, but found that I was better off without it, as the slow speed of the servo gave me sufficient control. An interesting device, however.

For what you want to sew the 211 will be more than adequate, and reverse really does make life easier.

Looks like all they've done is mount their "B" version to a small thick wooden board and mounted a typical servo motor behind it. I think Uwe made a similar setup for one of his machines. If it's anything like my Pfaff 335 while it could be considered "portable" (as in not being attached to a table) it's going to be a heavy lump to move around!

Jimmy, I buy my (industrial) needles from Elizabeth Machines (were Capron Carter) here in Adelaide. I'm sure there would be an equivalent place in Brissy. As for thread, the only place I could find heavy machine thread is at a leather supply place. My 335 is happy with Metric 40 (#69) and will go up to Metric 20 (#138). I use polyester/cotton and straight bonded polyester. If all else fails you can get thread via ebay. Make sure to get a few spare bobbins too, so you can keep some wound. I slowed mine down with a servo and a large pulley on the head unit and it has a surprising amount of grunt!

Probably just one of many such companies that we don't hear/know about until someone finds them. A pretty impressive array of products, including assorted spare feet/feed dogs. With such a range they're obviously not some backyard operation. If you're getting them through a dealer then you would be getting a warranty? The first one looks interesting, handling 20mm thickness is pretty nice, the second one is obviously a direct copy of a Pfaff. IF the price was right I'd probably give it serious thought - but can the dealer help you out with setting them up if you have problems? Or will you be on your own? A good price isn't much use if you can't get them working, and the last one in particular, with all the electronics is not something you want if you can't get support.

Glad it worked out ok.