dikman

The table itself works fine, but for now I've given up on the post-bed and put it to one side. The presser wheel is great, as it lets me get in real close to the edge, but it has a nasty tendency to break needles! If I try to use anything too thick it can cause a very slight deflection of the needle which then hits the needle plate with inevitable results! I'll come back to it at some point in the future, but for now I don't need it as the two flat beds and the cylinder arm (all walking foot) are more than adequate for my needs.

Yep, big pulley indeed! You will need to know the shaft diameter and also look at how the pulley fits the shaft - it will either have a slot in the shaft with a key or locking screws, usually recessed into the pulley somewhere. These days most sewing machine pulleys are pretty standard for a 3/4" shaft with a keyway, but that is an OLD motor, so anything is possible. Fitting a smaller pulley will certainly make it more manageable, if you can find one that will fit, but may still be a handful for a newbie (it was for me, it was inevitable that I would replace mine with servos). By the way, on that last photo it looks like the thread isn't going between the discs on the top tension/guide?

It's certainly different (first blue one I've seen). Nice work. As for the price, very few people would appreciate the work that goes into something like this. Anything hand-made is the same, if you try to charge what it actually cost (particularly the labour cost) most wouldn't pay it.

When I saw that blade shape I thought "hmmm". I agree with chiefjason, without a snap/retaining strap the only way I can see is to make a pouch-type sheath that extends part-way up the handle (at least to the "bump", if not a bit further). You would certainly have to wet mold it, but that way you might be able to introduce a bit of a restriction at the thick part of the handle to provide a bit of holding pressure.

Not snagging the bottom of the holster. One thing I noticed is that on the Remington 1875 the part of the ejector (the bit you push) at the front sticks out quite a bit and my molding around it is a bit too snug. On this next one I've taped a dowel along the barrel behind the front sight and also one from the front of the ejector to the front of the receiver. Along with padding out the frame/cylinder a bit this should provide smoother contours to mold the leather around, thus giving a bit more "wiggle room". I'm also trying a slightly different method - last time I molded the pouch around the gun, let it dry and then stitched the pouch edge (I stitched most of it first, leaving the pouch edge until molded). This time, after stitching all the edge except the pouch, I thoroughly wet it and folded it over, lined up the pouch edges, lightly clamped it and left it to dry. Tomorrow I'll stitch the pouch edge - I may run two rows of stitching down, still thinking about that one - and then wet it and work the gun into it to shape it. I figure by the time I do #3 I should just about have figured out the best way to make them. And this time I remembered to fit the Chicago screws before gluing the leather halves!

I whipped this one up when I first got the machine, a bit basic but I wanted to see if the idea would work.

I've got a small bottle of thinned brown so I'm thinking of putting a bit in a small container and adding a couple of drops of black just to see what happens. Sounds like it might be worth experimenting a bit. Front sight - I had intended removing it, as for such close range shooting I don't see that it's necessary, but a member from another club said that occasionally they will shoot at a target that has a small centre so greater accuracy will be required. I'm still undecided about it, but it's only a matter of developing a technique with very slight pressure pushing the muzzle to the rear. Doesn't need much, I'll see how I go.

Nice. I might have ago at something similar, just for the ruckus it's likely to create here . The fact it's been approved by the governing body would be my "ace-in-the-hole"! I tried my holster at the range yesterday, and I like it. I just have to develop a technique for clearing the front sight (so that it doesn't catch on withdrawal) but that's no big deal. The next one will be in natural leather, but I suspect I'll end up making two like that plus a matching belt. I like your two-tone effect, but I think I'll try that later .

(Insert bright flash of light!). Now that makes perfect sense! I've always been concerned at adding too much dye because the stuff I've read always indicated that I should get coverage just using a couple of coats. I see now that I wasn't going far enough. Many thanks for explaining your method. I've just been asked to make a couple of shotgun cartridge belts, and looking at your design it's rather intriguing. Is it a belt with another piece stitched on the inside, extended up and folded over? It looks like it will have the effect of angling the cartridges away from the body a little. It's certainly different to every other one that I've seen.

Thanks for the info, Glenn. I'll have a play with it later.

Red Cent, I meant to ask how you get such uniform colouring? By dipping? Longtooth, your info was invaluable in understanding the design. Many thanks. (I must admit the colour is a fluke on my part ).

Yup. I see you're going down the same path. Air rifles here are classed the same as .22 rifles, paint ball guns and single/double barrel shotguns - must be registered and you need a licence to own one. I note that air pistols appear to be lumped in with air rifles over there, but here an air pistol is considered the same as any other handgun (with the same restrictions on ownership). As has been said many times, once government and bureaucracy get involved logic and common-sense fly out the window!

Not a mod I'm likely to be considering!

That brown is nice, it actually looks brown! One of the problems with these dyes is that it depends on what base colour is used to create it initially, wihout knowing this mixing colours can have all sorts of interesting effects. That last photo is sort of what I originally envisaged (but not in two-tone, very striking). I've decided to make the next holster "natural", just using neatsfoot oil and waxing it. Depending which one I like best I'll then make another one in that colour to give me a pair. Fortunately, the actual cost of making a holster is pretty low material-wise, the cost, as we know, is mostly in the time involved so not using one of them is no big deal. You guys are possibly quite unique in the world in having your Second Amendment. DO NOT let them modify it, change it or take it away or you'll end up like us!!! We (Australia) tend to be held up as a shining example of gun control and how it prevents "bad things" happening. Don't you believe it. The only people affected by these strict laws are what we refer to as LAFO's - Law Abiding Firearm Owners - the bad guys, strangely enough, ignore these laws and don't seem to have any trouble getting (illegal) firearms.

Coeta, although I have one of these machines I can't really offer any useful advice as mine is working. I would, however, like to say well done for resurrecting this machine, I reckon you've done a great job so far! (A garden ornament! What a waste ).

Thanks for the nice comments, guys, particularly as I would only consider this an "adequate effort" compared to the excellent work I see on here. Stu, I have to make another one, as I need the pair, so it will have to be the same colour, but I'm tempted to make another one as well and just use the neatsfoot oil just to see what it will look like ( ). Red Bear, I used lacquer thinner to cut it. I'm not sure if it's the right stuff to be using (spirit dye, not oil-based) but it seems to work. My first effort was with White Spirit, but it wouldn't mix and the colour made a bubble that floated in the Spirit (looked pretty cool!). I finished off the holster with two coats of hot neatsfoot oil, one after the other, and rubbed in with a cloth. Let it dry for a few hours then applied a mix of beeswax/mutton tallow/neatsfoot oil, rubbed it in and buffed it with a lambswool pad. The colour isn't uniform but slightly patchy, which suits me fine as it should give it a slightly aged/used/worn look (I hope). Holster accreditation. In this country anything to do with firearms is controlled by strict regulations. The only way you can own handguns is by joining an approved pistol club, and they can only be used at club ranges. Holsters are a no-no, unless you pass testing for the particular purpose - IPSC, ISSF, Single Action etc. While the relevant club will run the course/testing, all of this is controlled by the Firearms Branch of the police. If you get caught using a holster and aren't accredited you can lose the lot - guns and licence! Because of this control, clubs are extremely safety conscious as any incident can have dire ramifications for the club. The 30 degree rule, and the resultant possibility of "sweeping" with the barrel, is one that is a potential issue so is carefully watched. (We had to get another Single Action club in to do the testing, as we don't have anyone approved to do it). Sorry for waffling on, but it can be hard for you Yanks to comprehend how Draconian our laws are!

As usual, a well done video, Uwe. (But such clean hands ).

Some time ago I asked about McQueen's holster (from The Magnificent Seven). Lots of useful responses, thanks guys, so I eventually had a go at making one. An interesting exercise, to say the least. My paper pattern could have been a bit wider, although I just managed to squeeze the gun in while molding it. Biggest mistake - I was so fired up to make it that I forgot to put the Chicago screws between the leather before gluing!!!! So I had to recess the screws afterwards. Minor problem, but it should work ok. I was going to just use neatsfoot oil on the leather, to keep it natural, but then decided to use some Feibings Mid Brown that I have. My first use of this, on a belt, came out as what I would call a dark brown, so I cut this 50% to try and lighten it. It now has a reddish tinge to it! (Reminds me of Red Cent's search for a true brown). I should have stuck to the neatsfoot oil, I think. While it's not as neat as many on here, as long as it's functional is the main thing as I've just received my holster certification and the testing showed that my other cross-draw had too great an angle (although it was 30 degrees, if the belt angle changed it could become a problem). This one is 20 degrees, so will function as both strong side and cross-draw.

Don't know if this will help. I opened mine up and traced the connections. Looking at the front of the plug, notch at top. I'm guessing D and U (labels on the PC board) refer to Down and UP. (Excuse the slightly blurry photo, camera didn't want to focus where I wanted it to!!). If the plug on yours matches the socket on the servo, I would suggest checking the connections. As long as the +ve and -ve line up then plugging it in shouldn't do any damage.

Quite possibly. Mine also has a 4-pin connection (Skyrit servo from China) but I have no idea if there's a wiring "standard" for these things. Unfortunately no-one seems to provide wiring diagrams for these things.

I would say that they must have an electrical connection somewhere on the needle bar. You won't get very good conductivity via the oil that the bar should be running in, and as you say any arcing would be an issue. I'm still trying to figure out what use it would be

Blast! Just when I thought I had it sorted you guys come along and say it should work! Looks like a bit more experimenting is in order. Just a thought, are you chaps referring to older models or newer ones? (Don't know what differences there might be between them). JLS, that's exactly what I'm doing! I used the WSV77 to run the holes around the edge, which makes it much easier (and neater) to use the awl and needles. I must admit that I had reservations about using #138 thread, but because I had the machines I figured I should use them. I feel happier knowing I'll have more substantial thread on the holster itself. (I used the WSV77 because I can get down to 4 1/2 spi, the other machines will only go to 6 1/2 spi).

Thanks Bob, I wondered if there was something in the design causing the problem. While I realise that it operates differently to the 211 (horizontal vs vertical shuttle, for one thing) I don't have the depth of knowledge of these things to understand the subtleties involved. It works fine with #69, so I'll leave it at that (and at least I know why it's happening, which is the main thing). Eric, I went to a lot of trouble getting the timing right. I guess doubling the thread size could require re-adjustments, but in this case, based on what Bob said, there's not much point messing around with it. Even if I got it working it sounds like it might not be reliable for long runs. But thanks for the advice, it's all useful info. I'd already come to the conclusion that I'll probably have to hand stitch it and this just confirms it. I'll save the machines for belts, I guess.

I'm making another holster (for a single action revolver), so this time I figured I should use my machines rather than hand stitch. I reckon that #138 thread will look a bit better than #69 (realistically #138 is the heaviest my machines will probably handle). I wanted to use the Pfaff 335, because I'll need the cylinder arm to do part of it, but it just doesn't seem to like #138!! After a few stitches the top thread is snagging somewhere down below and cutting a couple of strands - not good. I tried with #138 top and bottom, #138 on top and #69 on the bottom but it still happens. I tried a size 16 needle (yes, I know, it's too small but I had to try everything I had), size 18 and size 22 but it still happens. I then tried the 211G166, and that worked fine with the heavier thread and size 18 needle - but the flat bed won't let me stitch the holster when it's folded over (because the edge of the holster doesn't sit flat). Has anyone used #138 on a Pfaff 335? The machine's got plenty of grunt behind it, it's just the thread it doesn't like! The only options I can come up with are 1) hand stitch it (no big deal, it's a lot smaller than doing a belt) or 2) machine stitch as much as I can and then hand stitch the folded double edge - but I would have to use the #138 thread for uniformity. At the moment I'm tending towards 1.

I agree about the dashed lines, Art. That is what's so confusing. Ordinarily, dashed lines like that on a cct., as you said earlier, would indicate that there is something else in cct. and/or that they go via some other equipt (or that it may be a temporary connection). In this particular case that's not happening, so I'm perplexed as to why they used them. I'm blowed if I can think of a (sensible) reason for them.