dikman
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Everything posted by dikman
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If the blade is similar in size to the one in the link it should be possible to re-grind the blade. A belt grinder would be best but an angle grinder should work, just take it slow and keep cooling the blade. Finish off with oilstones/waterstones.
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First sheath that survived the scrap bin
dikman replied to Gezzer's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
A very interesting knife, particularly the bolster. He certainly did nice work. -
That explanation for the double bevel sounds odd to me - and why only on one side?
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Not strange at all. That's how I got into sewing (and industrial machines) I couldn't buy the holsters I wanted so made my own.
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Yep, the common terminology is cap and ball. That is very, very nice work indeed! The carving is what I was trying to achieve on my first attempt at carving a holster (and didn't quite get there).
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Looks good, and not overbuilt. On one table I had I screwed a piece of angle iron across the underside of the table as I felt the top wasn't stiff enough. Looks like a target frame on the right of the table?
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Pair of Schofield Holsters
dikman replied to JWheeler331's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
Nicely executed holsters. And a pair of Schofields too, lucky you. -
Leather sewing machine for the knifemaker
dikman replied to EmilHandmadeKnives's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Thanks, it might be simple but it's very effective. -
Yep, definitely a redneck!
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Exactly my thoughts too, kgg. Realistically, I don't see any benefit, in what we do, in having a direct-drive sewing machine.
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Leather sewing machine for the knifemaker
dikman replied to EmilHandmadeKnives's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Nothing to add about a machine, I just wanted to say that your knives look very nice, a practical size and shape for a using knife. Your sheaths are also well designed, but how did you get that mottled finish? You can't just post them on the forum without explaining how it's done, it's just not allowed. -
Cute! It would go well with the cute little knife that Chuck made.
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Well, ain't that a little cutie! Could also be called a fancy patch knife.
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Only real difference (besides yours being much prettier!) is the sweeping curve of the blade.
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goober, that's a full-tang design, you can't fit a stacked leather handle to it, as it's shown.
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The motor and arm linkage look pretty generic, the major difference that I can see is their control unit has more buttons on the front, which presumably means not having to access the menu to make basic changes (like speed control). Other than that my guess is it won't be much different to most of the other 750w servos out there.
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To my un-tutored eye, and with nil experience in bag-making, they look excellent!
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From memory they all had 3/8" lift except the 155 at 1/2". The 155 was the model with the "major" differences in that sub-class grouping, the rest were similar, as you say.
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In the third photo the bed looked pretty bad, it's hard to believe how well it cleaned up. Overall it appears to be in good condition. I once bought a similar machine with the same type of motor/clutch setup, and while it was interesting, from a mechanical perspective, I didn't mess around with it, I went straight to a servo and (home-made) speed reducer.
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My first thought was "an interesting shape, looks quite useful", my second thought was "it wouldn't be hard to make".
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The front ones look like leaves to me so my eyes tried to see the rear one as a leaf, but once I accepted that it is a feather then it looks right (if that makes sense). You still did a good job on it.
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It may darken a little more after oiling.
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Airbrush questions
dikman replied to NealzKustomz's topic in Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners.
Air pressure will be affected by the type of brush, I'm guessing yours is probably a basic external mix siphon feed, which will require a bit more pressure, probably around 25-30 psi. That's what I run my Paasche at. -
I use mauls I made myself from melted plastic milk bottles. I also made a maul from rawhide and have a couple of rawhide mallets that were given to me, I find the milk bottle mauls work fine, the rawhide mallets don't have enough weight but that could just be my technique that's at fault.
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I don't know about using it in Weldwood but I've used it to thin Sika brand contact cement. I would think it would probably work in any contact cement that is made using hydrocarbons, as Xylene is a strong solvent.