dikman

Sewed too heavy for bags? Sounds a bit strange to me. A guess would be the timing went out and she couldn't fix it (maybe made it worse?) so probably just left it sitting there. The feed dog on my Pfaff only moves back and forth, even with the new dog. The machine isn't designed to do anything else. I think I read somewhere that the newer model can be swapped out to oscillate up and down but it wouldn't be a simple modification if that's true. With the changed parts mine worked well as a straight stitcher, its limitation being clearance under the feet (5/16"), although by re-adjusting things I got 3/8" and #138 thread - but it wasn't too happy with it. Bear in mind mine is the "older" model 335, I believe the newer one (which looks like yours) may have 3/8" under the feet and can handle #138. As for rushing in and buying the wrong machine you're no orphan there!! I've bought and sold a few machines to get to the stage where what I have should cover all my needs. The subject of industrial sewing machines, and all the variations therein, is quite a complex field.

Yep, it's set up for binding but it's missing the actual tape feeder. You should ask if they have the fitting. It will do straight sewing like that but it's not ideal, you will need the two feet, needle plate and feed dog to do it properly. I bought mine (for an old casting Pfaff 335) from KwokHing. It will be best suited to #69 thread. It looks to be in very good condition, my guess would be that they bought it as a binder and then used it for straight stitching but as it's not ideal for that (as set up) didn't use it much or decided to get a proper straight stitcher. You should also ask if they have the instructions for the servo.

Don't know why I didn't think of her. Doh! I should have asked when I ordered the needle plate.

No blockages of parcels here in Oz, as Wiz said they are generally understaffed for coping with the massive increase of parcels due to the increase of on-line shopping that co-vid has caused. It's usually quicker for overseas postage than shipping within Oz!! Brian, where did you get those size 23 needles from? I just remembered that the smallest my local place had was size 24 in round point.

Thanks Wiz, #277 is the largest thread I have so this set is likely to stay put on my machine almost permanently. I'm just happy that I'll be able to go down to #138 on thinner materials with minimal adjustment. Christmas has come a little bit early.

I suspect the original design called for a heavy duty stitcher and sewing light material was not part of their remit. After all, Juki also have a range of machines to suit lighter materials, if needed.. As for fitting a Cobra 4, I'd be very surprised if it didn't fit, as the clones are just that, clones of the original Juki so I would expect most parts should be interchangeable.

Excellent! That covers everything I have! It will be close to the Holy Grail of sewing machines - one machine that can do it all. I can see me getting a lot more use out of the machine now.

Exactly what I was thinking!

What I forgot to ask is what's the thickest thread this combination will handle?

Being able to use #138 on the big machine would be great, anything smaller and I would use the Seiko anyway. I'll give the sewing machine place here a call and see if they have any needles in that size, otherwise it's onto ebay. I knew you were working on this little project but wasn't aware it was a done thing. Good job, cobber. Oh yeah, I'm going to need more bobbins too!

I've already ordered one. Jess just sent me the invoice so now it's a matter of Australia Post deciding how long they decide to take to get it here. This is probably the quickest I've ever bought something without thinking about it first. It looks like it will make the big 4500 a much more useful machine overall. What size thread/needle were you using on the wallets?

Impressive. I've only seen photos of Efka units on machines, and no details. Edit: manuals here - https://www.manualslib.com/products/Pfaff-335-3541803.html It's the "new" model, btw, not the old casting. It will show you what the missing reverse/stitch length lever looks like and you should be able to work out what the various added-on bits do. Those levers on the back would have been added to allow for the automation of foot lift and maybe tension? Usually the mounting hole spacing for clutch motors follows a standard 3-hole pattern and a servo should line up with the same holes. The only real problem I see is finding the replacement stitch length lever. Because the 335's were sold as "plain" machines there's no reason this one can't be returned to that state.

That is impressive!! A bit more character than my digital one.

Shooting took me down a (deep) rabbit hole, now in interest in archery is threatening to do the same but I'm trying to keep this one under control! Btw Rossr, I forgot to say that I like that cutter you found, something about the handle design looks real cool.

As I said in your other thread it shouldn't be difficult to remove everything that's an add-on to the machine and just leave the basic head unit on the table. All you've got is a 335 that has had the Efka stuff added to give it specific functionality. More photos, and closer, will help to clarify things. As for any solenoids/air lifters they are only added for the automation, the 335 didn't come with them as standard. The reverse may have only been blocked from working due to the automation and may still be there, again photos will help.

Thanks mate, for $120 I just have to have one!

Yin Tx, that pretty well summed up me! Although in my case I decided to make a knife (by grinding it from a bar). I soon realised that I actually wanted to forge it, so.......building to house forge, forge, anvils, tongs etc etc. Same with leatherwork, stated buying sewing machines but had nowhere to put them.......so shed, electrical wiring (trenching) etc etc.

It shouldn't be that difficult to completely remove the motor and all its associated fittings, you should be left with a basic 335 head unit. Then just fit a servo, again it shouldn't be that difficult as folks on here do it all the time. A 550w servo will work, a 750w would be better. A closeup photo of the needle/feet area would be nice, to see what feet/feed dog are fitted. Oh, and you might be able to sell the Efka, seeing that you have a working unit.

Brian, that is very impressive! What size thread is that? You got more details - price, availability etc? I don't really need one but that's never stopped me before.

ANY hobby I take up (and there have been a few) always seems to turn out expensive!

If the router motor is a universal-type motor (not induction) then you should be able to fit a basic speed control to it and slow it down.

What sort of items are you making? This will be a big deciding factor in the type of machine you need. As pointed out the 441 class are for heavy duty sewing of thick materials with thick thread (holsters, gunbelts, horse tack etc). Whilst they can be "dumbed down" - Wiz has written an article on how to do it - it is not an ideal machine for lighter material. As for not wanting to spend a lot, you're probably no different in that from most of us. Unfortunately it rarely works that way when it comes to industrial sewing machines.

I'm not sure that I would have thought of starting it with the foot pedal down, I haven't seen that mentioned anywhere else. At least you got it working.

I wonder what the torque would be like at that speed? I've found speed reducers are the best way to get very slow speed with a servo as this also gives increased torque.

I would say it has to be a burnisher, with those four different sized grooves on it. The grooves are all very highly polished and the edges of the slots are rounded over slightly. I would assume the motor is adjusted so the groove you want to use is level with the flat top of the table, so good for burnishing belts. Just a guess on my part, of course. An interesting design, it would never have occurred to me to put slits in a burnisher.