dikman

Exactly what I was thinking!

What I forgot to ask is what's the thickest thread this combination will handle?

Being able to use #138 on the big machine would be great, anything smaller and I would use the Seiko anyway. I'll give the sewing machine place here a call and see if they have any needles in that size, otherwise it's onto ebay. I knew you were working on this little project but wasn't aware it was a done thing. Good job, cobber. Oh yeah, I'm going to need more bobbins too!

I've already ordered one. Jess just sent me the invoice so now it's a matter of Australia Post deciding how long they decide to take to get it here. This is probably the quickest I've ever bought something without thinking about it first. It looks like it will make the big 4500 a much more useful machine overall. What size thread/needle were you using on the wallets?

Impressive. I've only seen photos of Efka units on machines, and no details. Edit: manuals here - https://www.manualslib.com/products/Pfaff-335-3541803.html It's the "new" model, btw, not the old casting. It will show you what the missing reverse/stitch length lever looks like and you should be able to work out what the various added-on bits do. Those levers on the back would have been added to allow for the automation of foot lift and maybe tension? Usually the mounting hole spacing for clutch motors follows a standard 3-hole pattern and a servo should line up with the same holes. The only real problem I see is finding the replacement stitch length lever. Because the 335's were sold as "plain" machines there's no reason this one can't be returned to that state.

That is impressive!! A bit more character than my digital one.

Shooting took me down a (deep) rabbit hole, now in interest in archery is threatening to do the same but I'm trying to keep this one under control! Btw Rossr, I forgot to say that I like that cutter you found, something about the handle design looks real cool.

As I said in your other thread it shouldn't be difficult to remove everything that's an add-on to the machine and just leave the basic head unit on the table. All you've got is a 335 that has had the Efka stuff added to give it specific functionality. More photos, and closer, will help to clarify things. As for any solenoids/air lifters they are only added for the automation, the 335 didn't come with them as standard. The reverse may have only been blocked from working due to the automation and may still be there, again photos will help.

Thanks mate, for $120 I just have to have one!

Yin Tx, that pretty well summed up me! Although in my case I decided to make a knife (by grinding it from a bar). I soon realised that I actually wanted to forge it, so.......building to house forge, forge, anvils, tongs etc etc. Same with leatherwork, stated buying sewing machines but had nowhere to put them.......so shed, electrical wiring (trenching) etc etc.

It shouldn't be that difficult to completely remove the motor and all its associated fittings, you should be left with a basic 335 head unit. Then just fit a servo, again it shouldn't be that difficult as folks on here do it all the time. A 550w servo will work, a 750w would be better. A closeup photo of the needle/feet area would be nice, to see what feet/feed dog are fitted. Oh, and you might be able to sell the Efka, seeing that you have a working unit.

Brian, that is very impressive! What size thread is that? You got more details - price, availability etc? I don't really need one but that's never stopped me before.

ANY hobby I take up (and there have been a few) always seems to turn out expensive!

If the router motor is a universal-type motor (not induction) then you should be able to fit a basic speed control to it and slow it down.

What sort of items are you making? This will be a big deciding factor in the type of machine you need. As pointed out the 441 class are for heavy duty sewing of thick materials with thick thread (holsters, gunbelts, horse tack etc). Whilst they can be "dumbed down" - Wiz has written an article on how to do it - it is not an ideal machine for lighter material. As for not wanting to spend a lot, you're probably no different in that from most of us. Unfortunately it rarely works that way when it comes to industrial sewing machines.

I'm not sure that I would have thought of starting it with the foot pedal down, I haven't seen that mentioned anywhere else. At least you got it working.

I wonder what the torque would be like at that speed? I've found speed reducers are the best way to get very slow speed with a servo as this also gives increased torque.

I would say it has to be a burnisher, with those four different sized grooves on it. The grooves are all very highly polished and the edges of the slots are rounded over slightly. I would assume the motor is adjusted so the groove you want to use is level with the flat top of the table, so good for burnishing belts. Just a guess on my part, of course. An interesting design, it would never have occurred to me to put slits in a burnisher.

Ain't that the truth! $2!! That goes beyond being a bargain!!

Smokin'!! (I just watched The Mask again ). Should be good for a few more years.

To add something else to the mix I have a pair of paper sharpening wheels mounted on a grinder. One is embedded with fine grit, which does a good job of putting an edge on a blade and the other has fine rouge on it and hones to a very sharp edge. Some use wheels made from MDF to do the same thing. I have accumulated all sorts of sharpening gear over the years - grinders, belt grinders/sanders, a wet-wheel grinder, Arkansas stones, oil-stones - and have found the paper wheel system excellent for getting a fine edge quickly. The only thing I haven't tried is Japanese water stones, they apparently work well but seem to wear quickly.

You're right, that price is extremely low. One thing I don't like about it is it's an all-in-one unit, which means if you want to change any settings you have to get down on your knees under the table to access it. Still, at that price it's probably worth a try.

If you're only using it on a post bed (and you have a speed reducer fitted) I can't see where a 750w motor would be any better than a 550w. The deciding factor is the thickness of the material to be sewn and a post bed is not going to handle material thick enough to stop a 550w from driving the needle through it.

What a beautiful little machine!

I only have one Seiko, excellent machine, I wouldn't have any qualms about buying a Seiko.