dikman

I've moved a few, always remove the head unit (easy to do) and as Wiz said lay it down with plenty of packing (old blankets etc). I had to completely disassemble the tables to get them in my car, but again no big deal. Just take an assortment of tools - screwdrivers (Philips and flat blade), a socket set, adjustable wrench, pair of pliers and some rags to wipe your hands!! If it has a clutch motor be aware they are heavy, if possible flip the table on its back and remove the motor. Having a mini-van you might be able to get the table inside in one piece and so save a bit of work.

You beat me to it, Chuck - that is a LOT of basket weave!! It does my head in thinking about it! A beautiful piece of work, Randy.

Nothing like a happy ending.

This is the plate and the feed dog that came with it. The left edge is rounded off and caused a problem with the foot that I had so I packed it out with epoxy to level it off. Incidentally, the metal that HK uses is HARD!!.

I've converted it back to a binder but I can post a photo of the needle plate later.

I bought the feed dog and needle plate from Kwok Hing and a generic set of feet from a local supplier to convert mine to a "standard" stitcher and it worked fine.

Looks like a nice cosy setup.

If you're referring to using it with a clutch motor then no, it won't work. A clutch motor is an induction motor and there is no known easy/cheap way to make them variable speed. Which is why servo motors were developed for sewing machines. That speed control works with what are often called universal motors, the types fitted to electric power tools (if the motor has brushes then it should work).

You're been a busy boy! Should be a good setup, the drum sander is a good idea. I just made a wooden burnisher and fitted it to a standard bench grinder (3400 rpm). How do you think the PLA burnisher will hold up? My experience has been that PLA doesn't take kindly to getting hot. It never occurred to me to fit a drum sanding thingy to a bench grinder, might be something to ponder on.

Norwegian, I can't help you with details on the machines, other than to tell you SV machines are extremely difficult to find information on. Manuals are virtually non-existent, except in rare cases. They are generally considered to be Special Versions/Special Variation (?) of a particular standard machine in that class. The trick is often figuring out which particular model they relate to. It is also often difficult to find out in what way they are different. The only way I can suggest is to try and identify any models in that class that look the same, try and find a parts manual and see if any of the parts appear to match what's already there. I did that once when I had one and identified an identical standard model, the parts numbers on mine were different but visually they all appeared to be the same in both machines. I never did figure out what made mine an SV model. One possibility, I suppose, is that the SV came first and then went into production as a standard model. Who knows?

All the best at the auction, I hope you do well.

400 Euro???? Now I understand why you weren't happy!

I have done the same thing and have suggested it in quite a few posts but it can be difficult for some folks to source a suitable pulley and fit it. On one machine I replaced the handwheel with a large pulley AND added a speed reducer - it crawled along!

I would go the other way () and fit a speed reducer first. If it still doesn't do what you want then replace the servo (which will still work with the reducer).

For holsters you should consider 277 to be the minimum thickness thread.

A 3:1 reducer, and a small pulley (2") on the servo should make it much more manageable. I went through the same process to slow my machines down. Another option is to replace the handwheel with a large pulley, which will have the same effect. When I bought my 335 it was set up as a binder, and at that point in my "education" I had no idea about what that was. I bought it with another machine because the guy wanted it gone and I got it dirt cheap ($250 Aus)! After much experimenting, and learning, I've gone back to using it as a binder, so don't write off yours just yet as you may find it useful down the track. And see how much you've learned in just a short time.

Sewed too heavy for bags? Sounds a bit strange to me. A guess would be the timing went out and she couldn't fix it (maybe made it worse?) so probably just left it sitting there. The feed dog on my Pfaff only moves back and forth, even with the new dog. The machine isn't designed to do anything else. I think I read somewhere that the newer model can be swapped out to oscillate up and down but it wouldn't be a simple modification if that's true. With the changed parts mine worked well as a straight stitcher, its limitation being clearance under the feet (5/16"), although by re-adjusting things I got 3/8" and #138 thread - but it wasn't too happy with it. Bear in mind mine is the "older" model 335, I believe the newer one (which looks like yours) may have 3/8" under the feet and can handle #138. As for rushing in and buying the wrong machine you're no orphan there!! I've bought and sold a few machines to get to the stage where what I have should cover all my needs. The subject of industrial sewing machines, and all the variations therein, is quite a complex field.

Yep, it's set up for binding but it's missing the actual tape feeder. You should ask if they have the fitting. It will do straight sewing like that but it's not ideal, you will need the two feet, needle plate and feed dog to do it properly. I bought mine (for an old casting Pfaff 335) from KwokHing. It will be best suited to #69 thread. It looks to be in very good condition, my guess would be that they bought it as a binder and then used it for straight stitching but as it's not ideal for that (as set up) didn't use it much or decided to get a proper straight stitcher. You should also ask if they have the instructions for the servo.

Don't know why I didn't think of her. Doh! I should have asked when I ordered the needle plate.

No blockages of parcels here in Oz, as Wiz said they are generally understaffed for coping with the massive increase of parcels due to the increase of on-line shopping that co-vid has caused. It's usually quicker for overseas postage than shipping within Oz!! Brian, where did you get those size 23 needles from? I just remembered that the smallest my local place had was size 24 in round point.

Thanks Wiz, #277 is the largest thread I have so this set is likely to stay put on my machine almost permanently. I'm just happy that I'll be able to go down to #138 on thinner materials with minimal adjustment. Christmas has come a little bit early.

I suspect the original design called for a heavy duty stitcher and sewing light material was not part of their remit. After all, Juki also have a range of machines to suit lighter materials, if needed.. As for fitting a Cobra 4, I'd be very surprised if it didn't fit, as the clones are just that, clones of the original Juki so I would expect most parts should be interchangeable.

Excellent! That covers everything I have! It will be close to the Holy Grail of sewing machines - one machine that can do it all. I can see me getting a lot more use out of the machine now.

Exactly what I was thinking!

What I forgot to ask is what's the thickest thread this combination will handle?