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dikman

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Everything posted by dikman

  1. As a repository of knowledge for all things leatherwork this has to be THE site to come to. This is doubly so when it comes to industrial sewing machines, I seriously doubt if there is anywhere else that has such a wide experience base to call on and that is freely available to all.
  2. Oh yes, I forgot to mention that I made a replacement arm cover plate from a piece of aluminium.
  3. http://www.kwokhing.com/pfaff/ I bought the 206-04 plate and feed dog and the KP335W, in hindsight I should have bought the N071. You'll have to email them for prices, there's an enquiry form on their website. I figured that the cost didn't matter much as it meant I could at least use it as a normal machine.
  4. Yes, need a new feed dog too.
  5. Based on those measurements there shouldn't be too many issues fitting it. I have an assortment of pulleys (45 mm, 65mm, 75, 120 and 140) that I can use on the reducer shaft to the head so I can fine-tune the final drive ratio. It's amazing how many pulleys I've accumulated since getting into this sewing machine thing! I've also just fitted a steel channel underneath to reinforce the table against the extra weight. Still waiting for the shipping quote, I just hope the Chinese are quicker at actual shipping than working out a quote!!!!
  6. I did that to my Pfaff 335. I needed a new needle plate and both feet, which I bought from Kwok Hing. I think I replaced the feed dog too, but I'll have to check on that (memory gets a bit confused these days ).
  7. Excellent! Thanks Brian. I intend to replace my 335 with this machine, I've swapped the motor for a 750w that I used on another machine and fitted a speed reducer (3:1). These measurements will enable me to make sure that the belt will clear the slot and give me an idea if any of my existing belts will fit.
  8. I was wondering if someone with one of these could do me a favour please? I would like to know the distance from the tabletop to the centre of the main (pulley) shaft and the diameter of the pulley itself (not the handwheel part), also, the distance centre to centre of the four mounting bolts.
  9. Sounds to me like you'll need one of the usual suspects - an upholstery-class walking foot. You'll be struggling with any domestic machine. An industrial straight-stitcher might do it (cheaper) but you could face issues with multiple layers not feeding properly.
  10. Now that is different! Nicely done.
  11. Yeah, there is that! I figure buying them from the people selling the machine gives me a reasonable chance that they will actually fit.
  12. Ok, it comes standard with the blanket feet, 3 bobbins and a couple of needles. I priced 1,3,6,8,12,13. The dearest was 3 at $24, the rest were between $14 - $18 (US$) which seems pretty reasonable to me. For a couple of hundred AU$ I can get a nice assortment of extras. Now I'm just waiting on the shipping quote and as long as it's not stupid I'll be in business.
  13. Wiz, the motor's not a problem. This will be replacing the Pfaff 335 on its table, already fitted with a servo and I have several speed reducers that I can fit (I've had a little experience at slowing down machines ). As for the edge guide, I'll probably make one to suit, I've already made one or two different types for my other machines. I'll ask them what it comes fitted with (I'm guessing the blanket foot).
  14. Assuming I get my 441, what type of feet, plates and feed dogs will I need to sew leather (holsters and belts)? Keestar have a selection available so buying from them makes sense as at least I know they will fit the machine. I sort of have some idea but figured it's better to rely on other's experience.
  15. Yes, I just found out that they have assorted bits. I'll start another thread about it.
  16. Thanks for your input, Glenn. I would love to buy the cheapest, just to see what it's like, but like most of us I have to try and get it right the first time. The little voice inside is saying Keestar, and I've ignored this voice in the past and got things wrong! I've always intended to go through whatever I get, to both check it out and to get familiar with it. I've managed to resurrect/adjust a few machines now so I don't consider it as a big deal. Now I'll need to find a source for extra feet, needles and thread (thread heavier than #138 is not that common here). More expense.
  17. Good idea about the saw blades. I have a couple of cheap handsaws, I'll have to test the steel and see what it's like. Failing that I'll try and find a saw sharpening place.
  18. My guess would be that the most they would do is turn over the machine by hand to make sure it at least moves before leaving the factory. If it's bought from the factory that assembles them then I guess there's a better chance that it will have at least been examined as the final stage. If it comes from a reseller, and apparently there are quite a few on alibaba, then the reseller wouldn't check it they would basically on-ship it as it came from the factory. Keestar, while a bit more expensive than some, sounds promising. They apparently manufacture a wide range of sewing machines and the woman I've swapped emails with said that if there is any problem with damaged parts they simply send them out. At least it's a name I've heard of. I've just emailed the customs broker to ask for a quote based on this machine, although the size/weight won't vary regardless of where I buy it from.
  19. Finally got a price from Keestar, $1310. She suggested an Adler clone that they sell would be better - but at double the price I think not!! So far the cheapest price is $938.
  20. I made a mini head knife! I have a Fein multitool (great piece of gear) and the half-round bi-metal cutting blade broke where it fits on to the tool. I was looking at it and thought it was a nice piece of steel, very thin and hard. So I ground off the teeth and shaped it , then turned a small wooden handle, slit it and epoxied the blade in. Bit of varnish on the handle and then I sharpened it on my motorised paper wheel. It is SHARP! Great for skiving. Now I need to make a bigger one once I find a suitable piece of steel.
  21. I've been trying to get a price out of Keestar, should be simple, just ask for FOB price like all the others. Nope, they want to know what I'm making, what type of leather I'm using and want my email address to send me literature. I told them I want a 441-type machine, what is so hard about giving me their FOB price?
  22. tt, while I agree with your sentiments Bert is right. If the difference was $2-300 I'd buy local, but I'm looking at a minimum saving of $1000, and depending which one I buy could be up to $1400 by buying from China. I don't know about you but that's a significant amount of money to me.
  23. Two more prices, $938 and $1269. The hard part is trying to make sure they are actual factories or simply resellers. This is becoming quite an experience . I definitely intend to buy a 441 as I've convinced myself I need it and I've just sold my 111W117 (to make room - well not really but it sounds good).
  24. Interesting, Bob, never knew that. Could explain why some of the crates are made from the cheapest plywood they can find! Chris, it's a dilemma. The cheapest one has positive reviews and reading their company profile sound pretty good. The dearer ones have been on alibaba longer, but does that make them any better.
  25. So far I have prices of $1600, $1579, $1400, $1392, and $1111 (Australian $). The last one is branded SKSEW. There are many more sellers on alibaba, with prices all over the place. These prices are for a 441 head unit only, FOB. I'm estimating shipping/customs at $500-$600 air freight.
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