dikman

I'll post it on here (assuming it works!) but might be a while, I keep getting distracted with other things.

There have been one or two posts about NPS and reducers. It appears that some servos will work with them and some won't (the NPS on my Skyrit servos won't work with any combination of reducer added). Only way to find out is to try it.

Those socks should stop the thread from dropping loose coils under the spool, but I've noticed when winding bobbins that the thread can often start twisting after the bobbin is partially wound. Unwinding from a horizontal spool should be a more "natural" thread flow. A bit like unwinding fishing line from a spool onto a fishing reel, after a while it starts to develop a reverse twist and if you're not careful you can get some frustrating tangles occurring. I'm going to modify my stand-alone bobbin winder to use horizontal spools and look at how to make a unit that can be swapped between machines, maybe with bearings to reduce drag. That should eliminate at least one possible potential problem.

I don't think I put any water in, just threw the lot in the slow cooker, left it on low until I had crispy bits in the bottom and poured it out through a sieve. Can't get much simpler, I reckon.

Hmmm, you made me look at my post in a completely different light........but yes, I was referring to lasers.

Mate, that thing of yours is a work of art! Considering the relatively minute size of mine and the fact it will only be used for small, short duration jobs it's not likely to be a problem for me. I've moved it down to my leatherwork/reloading shed where I can use it next to an open door, and if necessary I can stand another small fan next to it.

Josh, you're slipping, I found a flaw! Fifth photo, between the two speed holders, your scribed line is wonky! Seriously, very nice work and beautifully finished.

You've obviously done something right and as long as what you're making is selling that's all that matters.

Just saw this, it's an interesting idea. I've never really liked the way thread unwinds off a spool. Might have to give this some thought.

Yep, 3/8". I've already made an adapter to hold the stamps, now it's just a matter of refining the design. One of the presses had been modified by grinding down the "cam" part on one side of the handle and this is perfect for this job as it gives more leverage and pressure on the stamp.

Another possible use for one of the presses- make an adapter to use the alphabet stamps that came with my stuff. I reckon it should work.

Extremely unlikely that they would be metric or SAE (or any other "standard" thread). Singer tended to use their own thread sizes.

As I mentioned in another post I now have 3 x United-Carr 369 presses. They came with an assortment of dies, none of which fit any of the eyelets, rivets etc that I also got, or any of my existing snaps, rivets etc.The dies are all too big and I have no idea what they're for (see first photo). I also found a few smaller dies but these are obviously for a different press as they have tapered shanks, but some of them fit the rivets and eyelets! Making adapters to fit the Carr press wouldn't be difficult but the first thing would be to take off the tapers. Easy, just chuck them in the lathe thinks I. Slight problem, they are HARD! After wearing out two carbide cutters I ended up using a belt grinder to take most of it off then chucking them in the lathe and using the grinding belts held against them to make them round. Just have to drill and tap the adapters to hold the dies in place. (Photo 2). It's also occurred to me to make an adapter to hold an awl blade, then a press could be used to punch stitching holes through very thick welts. I hope.

My little engraver (same as VYO's) arrived today. Plugged it in, tried to install the driver but it wouldn't install!! Tried it on another computer (Win10) same thing. Hmm. Started searching the 'net for a driver and found a few people who didn't even receive the software! Eventually found a link via a youtube vid and that worked. I'm impressed! Yes, it's very limited due to its size, but for what I'll probably use it for it's fine - and it's small, so storing it is no problem!!! Looks like it's going to be a bit of fun to play with. One thing I've quickly learned, don't engrave leather in a small room, it stinks!!!!!!!!!!

Maybe we get a better quality beeswax down-under? Mine is all hard (bought from a beekeeper I know) and only gets slightly sticky when it softens under heat.

Would sticking the awl into beeswax first help? It does with non-glued parts.

An "adapter plate" should work and should be neater than having to fit support pieces in the hole for a "standard" base. Looks like bread crumbs on the base!

If you run a servo and use slow speeds then grease flinging shouldn't be a problem.

You got a walking foot post bed for next-to-nothing! Bargain! I decided to put my 51W59 (post bed) on a table with a "standard" cutout and had to make a filler piece as the bed was shorter, as well as fit some support pieces along the lower edges. Mine doesn't have hinges. I would think that a 111- lift lever should work.

A cylinder arm is probably more versatile, but it all depends on what you're going to sew, you can do most things on a flatbed (except go round and round and round like in the video ).

I wish! I've been told "no more sheds". I had to move the sewing machine spare parts into another shed and re-arrange the reloading gear to make room. And get rid of a domestic machine that I don't use.

Here's what I did to mount a motor on top. I had a full depth table so cramming it in wasn't necessary for me. Without a big pulley it could be fitted a lot closer. The second photo is the somewhat extreme length I went to in order to slow it right down! If you made a "box" to mount the head on and made it longer then you could almost fit the motor right next to it and in line.

Don't worry, I will be, as I love old tools. In some ways these knives are no better, functionally, as my re-shaped and re-purposed old cutlery knives, but these have a "pedigree" which sets them apart.

If that lot is from a private collection it's all a bit bizarre! It's as if he went to a Tandy store and said "I'll have one of everything to start with" and then just grabbed extras too.

Found 3 G Barnsley knives, thanks to the other recent timely post I've identified one as a clicker knife and one as a banana knife (weird name for a knife). Pretty well all the tools need sharpening. The hides are pre-dyed (coated?) on one side only. Of limited use to me, although the black, brown and reddish-brown may be useful, white, light yellow and purple not so much. Cleaned up the three Carr presses and realised that some other strange-looking bits are actually assorted fittings for the presses (for rivets, snaps etc). Next big job is to make sense of the rivets and caps.