fredk

In 30 years of working with leather (only 20 properly) I've only seen this on fabric backed PVC. The material was sold to us as 'real leather' and top ££ paid. A simple burn test proved it was PVC as for a glue, I would use UHU or Bostick

them shore luk pritty Just shows Tandy stuff ain't all that bad

This sort of question comes up all the time. With no offence directed at you. 1. think ahead on your stitches. 2. Its inevitable and most likely that your stitch lengths will not match the length you have to sew 3. on your wallet T pieces its usual to have a stitch going over the edge of the material; make the holes for these first. If you are using a 4-tooth sewing punch, put two teeth either side of the top of the T. 4. Work away from the top of the T, to the bottom and top corners, but stop short about the 3/4 distance. 5. punch the corner sewing holes 6. continue the rows of holes from the T towards the corner hole, adjust the spacing of the final few holes 7. work from the corner holes towards each other, across the top and bottom of the wallet. Work towards the centre alternately from each end. 8. stop punching as you near the centre 9. Adjust the final few holes for even spacing This sounds long and difficult but its very quick in practice and once you've done it a few times it becomes the natural way to do it. Very often the adjustment of spacing of some of the stitches is only a fraction of a millimetre which is hardly noticeable An alternative to 4-5-6 is 4. punch the corner sewing holes 5. punch the holes from the corner holes towards the holes punched in #3 6. either adjust the spacing of the last few holes as you approach the T piece, or adjust the spacing as you go along

That looks nice. Nowt in Art needs to be perfect

Not that exact version, but I do use my version almost all the time. These are mine; I have these with 4 teeth and a set with 2 teeth They certainly speed up the making of stitching holes plus they are quiet. I live in a ground floor flat (apartment) so usually I cannot do any hammering before 09.00 or after 21.00 without complaints, but with these I can make stitching holes at 02.00 and do some sewing. I recently (OK, so it was before Christmas) made some book covers. It took me under 5 minutes to go around the edges to make the stitching holes in each one I prefer my version as the teeth can get right tight into raised, formed edge. Shop around for them though as I bought mine for under £10 a tool but I've seen them for sale as much as $85 a tool and those you've shown for as much as $65 a tool

yup an Interesting idea. In my experience the magnets need to be very strong, eg N52 minimum, to hold through leather, but if the magnets are outside the leather area N36 or so would possibly do

Contrary to common belief, mistakes were allowed for and accepted in these books. Obviously the fewer the better but its a myth that a writer had to start again if they made a mistake, they could and did alter a drip into a picture, or scrub out an error carefully using pumice stone. Until the 1950s people had a lower acceptance level of 'perfect' - I can give you a whole discourse on that, but I will not

The most obvious answer to why is there aren't many around; the nature of leather, it rots away. Especially in damp or wet conditions. Early leather was not tanned extremely well and even today's leather will rot away eventually Second reason is, up to the start of the Industrial Period (late 1700s) anything made of iron, especially fripperies, were considered prestigious and thinks made of leather, wood or pottery were replaced with iron. Then after the I.P. iron and steel gradually became cheaper and it was easier and cheaper to make things like hinges in factories In some museums you can still find travelling trunks and such from the Napoleonic Wars era and before with leather hinges. The hinges go un-noticed as they are 'just hinges'. In most cases the hinges are two-part over-lap with a wood dowel pin, unlike your multi-part butt, or 'piano' hinge. I'm kinda worried that the leather will soften up too much with use. Perhaps a brass rod as a pin rather than C.F. in the briefcase one?

Looking at that photo I've just realised somat. I used to come across stools like that seen in the lower right. Cast iron with a circular wood seat. Most had Simanco cast into them. Just about every home had one or two, junk / 2nd hand shops had them by the tens. I had 3 in my photo studio for portrait sitting seats and general use. I got them given to me. Here they were usually used and called 'piano' stools, now I know what they really were. Its only recently that I learnt that Simanco is/was Singer Manufacturing Company. PS. I like my 15k models, my oldest is of 1913

No reason it won't work. I think two parts will work better than just a plain one piece hinge. Its a variation on the steel butt hinge. Lubrication is necessary on any hinge, and the use of carbon fibre rod is a good idea. A type of over-lap hinge has been in use since early medieval times. Some are still in place on doors. They've hardened up so much over the centuries they are like iron now and often mistaken for iron hinges

Its not easy to find quality metal tools. From my experience. You cannot trust the quality of the steel in punches by either price or 'name' . I've bought a set of individual hole punches by Draper. Price was about £27 for six. The metal was so soft the tube ends rolled over when I tried them on 3mm leather with 6mm leather as a punch pad. These were made in India. I've bought hole punches with other top names and they've usually ended up in my son's waste/scrap metal bin. They've been a waste of money. I had very old punches which were owned by my grandfathers. They could punch through 0.8mm aluminium they were so tough and hard. Maybe look for old ones. If you have 'garage' sales still going on in your area you might be able to pick some up Now I buy individual punches direct from China. 8 out of 10 are sharp and ready to use as they come. Of all the punches I've bought this way only one out of about 30 has been poor quality. The price I pay is between £1 and £3.50 roughly depending on size and includes postage. Rotary pliers punches; the same stories. I've gone through dozens of them, from cheap ones at £2 to ones at £15 (again Draper). I'm very happy with some Tandy ones I bought a few years ago. They have changeable tubes but I've not had to change one yet. As Arturo says, only certain sizes are commonly used. I go by millimetres and not # size, so I have 1mm up to 7mm as the most used, especially 3mm, then a I have a few random larger sizes, 10mm, 12mm, 19mm. I also have a few random sized oval hole punches 5 x 2mm, 7 x 2mm etc

The closest I can see are these at Le Prevo 1. http://www.leprevo.co.uk/photos/315M-20.htm 2. http://www.leprevo.co.uk/photos/0508M-15.htm

I kno nutting bout that I know we have differences in the system and with that in mind; two weeks ago No.1 son drove 60 miles to me, bringing food. He stayed over night then drove home the next evening. He drove down and up our M1. Never saw a Plodmobile. However, that weekend the Plods said they had stopped over 2500 motorists to check and handed out over 190 fines. Where? No.1 said he just drove normally, so might not have attracted the attention of roving Plodmobiles

Really depends on Mr Plod. I would time it so that you travel during a busy traffic time. Mr Plod is less likely to stop one car in many than one car on an empty road. If you have to explain do it everso politely. Your reason sounds very reasonable - to me

a. You don't say where in the world you are and that would help us to advise you b, general advice would be to ask around your locality if anyone knows a leather worker. Don't ask at a shoe-repair shop as they think leather workers are competition, ask at a clothes repair or even a dry-cleaners shop c. a repair is to fix an item keeping what it has, you are asking for a rebuild. It might be cheaper in money just to buy a new one. If it is of special sentimental value then it should be repaired with very little replaced. (Trigger's Broom syndrome)

@D2G, the fitting in the link shows a screw back. That one is best used on leather about 3 or 4mm thick. If you use thinner leather make a circle or disc shape and glue it to the thinner leather to make that area thicker. A rivet back, it just means instead of a screw part to screw into the back of the concho, like the one in the link you have to hammer a ready rivet type head onto a post on the back of the concho. I do not like these as it is too easy to damage the front of the concho and they won't do what you want them for google translate to Spanish. I hope between these I can explain el accesorio en el enlace muestra un tornillo hacia atrás. Ese se usa mejor en cuero de aproximadamente 3 o 4 mm de grosor. Si está utilizando cuero fino, haga un círculo o una forma de disco y péguelo al cuero más delgado para que esa área sea más gruesa. Un remache, solo significa en lugar de una parte de tornillo que se atornilla en la parte posterior del concho, como el que está en el enlace, tiene que martillar una cabeza tipo remache lista en un poste en la parte posterior del concho. No me gustan, ya que es demasiado fácil dañar el frente del concho y no harán lo que usted quiere.

wot he says

Tbh I've only used the iron-on a few times. The solid sheet didn't work out happy for me; the heat was too much and the leather shrivelled. I need to get an iron on which I can set a lower heat. On the interlining, it was more successful. I used black to cover some thin aluminium tape (for RFID blocking) inside credit/debit card wallets. But again, that iron with a lower heat setting is looked for. As well, my iron is a steam iron which only works with water in it. Hot water and leather are not a happy combo.

As far as I know only Tandy does a snap for the back of conchos https://tandyleather.world/products/concho-snap-adapter-10-pack?_pos=12&_sid=7960432bd&_ss=r There are a few Tandy resellers in Europe. They might be able to get them for you

Another adhesive we have forgotten about; the sheets of heat activated adhesive. It needs using carefully as too much heat can destroy the leather eg; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Adhesive-Iron-On-Sheet-by-Sizzix-by-Sizzix-663009-/113709155177?hash=item1a79980369 If you just need a fabric lining you can get materials with iron-on heat activated adhesive on it eg; ebay.co.uk/itm/Iron-On-Fusible-Non-Woven-White-Black-Interfacing-Lightweight-Medium-0-9M-Wide/262845535860?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

A difference in materials; here those square nails are soft iron. Look at it too hard and it'll fold up.

My #1 son got his business support grant about 3 days after it was introduced. He's been told he'll get the wages grant at the end of this month. He has two workers on 'furlough' who will get 80% wages, which he pays then the wages grant pays him. afaik he has to prove their wages.

Tandy also has hat patterns in their on-line Library. The patterns are free Have a look here; https://www.leathercraftlibrary.com/product/1210/2662-leather-hat-pattern-pak if you can't find one PM me, I might have a copy saved.

True. But they should be entitled to the grants available. For some it might be enough to keep them from closing up. I only order from Le Prevo and a couple of other places. I have orders from those odd places but they might be closed up as my orders are now 5 weeks overdue, one is outstanding from 16th February.