fredk

I found that in my case it was my browser [Firefox] it doesn't happen on Chrome

On all belts I make, if I use rivets I use at least 4 and often 6. Two up by the buckle, and two each side of the strap keeper. If the buckle has a built in keeper then only 4 rivets, two by the buckle and two at the end of the strip of leather folded over

No problem at my end. Changing pages is as fast as turning a page in a book. Refreshing a page is almost instant

Use a ready-rivet? Post diameter is usually 1/8" [about 3mm] and vary in length and can be cut shorter if necessary. Head diameter from about 4mm upwards. Looks like a double-head rivet of 8mm diameter heads would do the job.

1. dampen your leather, not sodding wet, but wet like you are going to tool it. This will help the dye spread thru the leather 2. Dipping doesn't need a big tank; here's a method I use for long straps, its based on how I used to develop films in the field. Put gloves on, put thinned dye into a jug or tray. Dip one end of dampened strap into dye, pullout by pulling the length of strap thru the dye in the jug/tray. Holding each end of the strap pull it back and forth thru the dye, making sure the ends get into the dye as well. Do not allow any part of the strap to remain in the dye any longer than any other part. Work it back and forth steadily for a short time then hang up to dry. There will be some dye running down the strap; form your first two fingers into a V and run them down the strap, one finger front and one back of the strap, wearing rubber gloves this action will squeegie the excess dye to the bottom of the hanging leather quickly, not allowing it to dry in streaks down the length [although, allowing that leads to interesting patterns] 3. for large flat areas consider using a spray brush to spray the dye on. I've only just started using this method as I don't make anything very big. It does give a very even finish. I use a spray brush which cost under $20 hth

UK company Norsol links: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NORSOL-Leather-colourant-pigment-paint-recolour-dye-Industry-Std-120ml/152663364215?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140122125356%26meid%3D02a2aaa912654f6ba5b3ab9ed215a5e4%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D3%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D113026087360%26itm%3D152663364215&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NORSOL-LEATHER-EDGE-FINISH-DYE-PAINT-COAT-COLOURANT-STAIN-120ML/152729174649?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140122125356%26meid%3D7378d0744840477eae9d86605c21d325%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D152663364215%26itm%3D152729174649&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

I've had a thunk on this. I'd make a tube shaped bag using belly leather. About 5 inches long. A bag like a bicycle handle-bar bag [see below]. Use a snap at each end of a flap that is the main body. Bring the first bag out under the flap, like a dispenser. The flap can be unsnapped for the bag to be refilled. Attach to the leash using Chicago screws. Place it either near the hand grip, or just above the collar end This sort of design, but using a snap at each end of the flap https://www.leathercraftlibrary.com/product/1968/bicycle-handlebar-bag

I found the simplest storage of tools solution was some car mechanics tool drawer units. I have one for 'stamping', one for 'sewing & riveting', one for 'cutting, skiving & punching' and another for extra and odd tools eg spare hammers/mallets. The 'Sewing' drawer unit sits atop a drawer/cupboard wheeled base, it all contains my threads, laces, boxes of ready-rivets. The 'stamping' one also sits on a wheeled unit, it all holds all my letter and fancy stamps except the handled tool stamps, the unit also holds boxes of conchos and bag fittings etc. The 'Cutting' unit sits on the lower shelf of my work bench, as does the spare drawer unit. The handled stamp tools are stored in artists paint-brush box units, afair I think each unit holds 64 stamps up-right. These sit on top my workbench. These paint-brush holders cost me about £2 each hth

1. not if the first coats sealed the antique or stain 2. one uses a technique called 'dry brushing' where one just uses a dry brush very lightly, just to disperse the bubbles, nether a loaded brush nor a heavy brushing action

It looks like the sections with the belt slots are one piece with the rear layer of the sheath

up to now I've been using Evostik contact in the red tin, I've also used Screwfix' own brand. Neither have brushes** and I dont use them either, I use a wide lolly stick* with the round end cut off. When glueing leather to a board for a game board I pour some glue on the board and spread it around with the stick. Being heated it flows better but also starts to 'set' faster - faster than normal but not too rapidly ** the Screwfix one might have had a brush in the lid, but I would have got rid of it * wide lolly sticks, cost about £2 for 50. use multiple times; just cut off the gluey bit and reuse, about 4 times Now, note, heating the glue will make it flow better, its still thick, just not like molasses, more like honey once I forgot to pop the lid; it blew off with the sound like a gunshot - scared the bejayzus out of me so it did

dunno, I just place the tin in very hot water. pop the lid open first or it blow off. be careful not to get water into the tin. then I just leave it to warm up whilst i sort things out ready for glueing, tidying the work space [yeah, right] so its maybe 5 to 10 minutes for a full-ish 250ml tin

I use regular contact adhesive. I find that it flows better after the tin is heated in jug of hot water

Are these the same as what you are looking for? https://www.holstersmith.com/vcom/mountings-belt-loops-canted-c-547_632.html

It sounds like you are using it neat and the two coats are sufficient. The surface is rejecting the third coat because it is sufficiently sealed and there is no room for it to soak in. The third coat is pooling and drying by evaporation. I find some leathers will just keep soaking up resolene and some are sealed after just a couple of coats. I dilute my res 1:1 with water and dip, spray or brush/sponge it on If you really need that third coat, apply the res and if it starts pooling just keep sponging or brushing it over as it dries

Does the leash attach to a body harness or choke collar? 1. If it attaches to a body harness I would make a small bag, about 6" x 6", out of soft belly leather or upholstery type leather. Attach it to the body harness with Chicago screws. 2. If it has to go on the leash I would sew up a tube shaped bag, again using upholstery leather or soft belly leather. A tube about 8" long x 3" diameter, with end opening and flap. Attach along its length using Chicago screws 1. 6 x 6 bag along the shape of this one from Tandy https://www.tandyleather.eu/en/product/bike-bag-kit Construction can be as simple or as detailed as you are content to do

That there would be quick. I have some projects I started in '05 - thats 2005, not 1805! [or is it? ] I think I even have some from '02. Anyone who knows me knows that they'll be done in time for Easter/Summer/Thanks Giving/Christmas - but I never tell them what year! My 2019 New Year Resolution is the same as it was for '18, '17, '16. . . its to not make any New Year Resolutions!!

N.I. is a very wet place. I rent a half of a 40footer container for storage. The container is bone dry [almost], no condensation nor leaks. I've stored my excess leather, both chrome and veg tan in it for several years now. There has been no problem. I store the leather in rolls on open shelves of shelving units. They get a bit of air round them but not a breeze

I would seal with either Resolene; several thinned coats, or Eco- Super Shene, then when thats dry rub in some Aussie Leather conditioner

From experience; don't waste your money on cheap sets, unless they are quality ones discounted. Get round to 'garage' sales, antique shops et cetera and you can pick up old, quality, 'wad' or gasket punches for cents. I've picked up a few larger sizes from 'car boot' sales, farmer's markets and antique shops for no more than about £1 each [$1.30] I/we had rather a lot of them but lost most when my son's garage business was burgled and we lost a number of tool boxes and equipment. I use a Tandy rotary punch a lot and individual punches for harder to reach areas caveat; I've found that even 'quality' named tools can be rubbish, names like Draper. Their punches on their rotary punch was so soft the metal punches bent going thru 3mm leather. I tried several - all the same. I expect the ones recommended by other on here will be worth their money

If I may add - I work in millimeters. 3/4" = 20mm, 5/8" = 16mm. I set my holes at 15mm apart, so roughly your 5/8" Depending on age of child. For the very young [up to about 6 y/o] 5 holes, a bit older [7 to 12 y/o] 5 for girls and 7 for boys

Woodworker's PVA is water based so I just thin it down with water. No exact measure, its sort of PVA into a tub, add some water, stir well and paint on. I use PVA which is water proof when dry

I vary between an A0 sized self healing mat, or a scrap of hardboard/MDF. For when I need to really press the knife down and maybe trim something its the self healing mat. For lighter cutting I use the MDF board. When that is scored too much It goes to recycling then a new one is bought. I give my MDF a coating or two of thinned PVA glue. I find that helps lengthen its life

1. My timber yard had no 4 x 4 in stock when I visited. Largest was 2.5 x 3. But they had some 2 x 2 off-cuts and they cut it down and the blocks cost me all of £2 [$3] 2. I used standard water-proof woodworking PVA. Gluing to about 1/2" of each end of each block. That should take care of the punch hitting a glued joint. No way is the punch going to go in as much as 3/8", maybe 1/4" but no more 3. The boards around the outside are mostly decorative - to make it all look tidy. Very little chance of a block coming loose and breaking away. They also make a grip for easy lifting and moving of the block. I made my block to fit the top of a special stamping/punching table I built 4. The roughness of the end grain on mine can leave marks on the leather sometimes. I usually punch from grain to flesh, but some times I need to go flesh to grain. To prevent wood grain marks I just put a thin bit of waste leather between the two. A harder wood than mine would probably have a smoother end grain. My wood is cheap framing white-wood. The cheapest one can get

I have a few small blocks of lead which I used to use for punching into. I mainly used them when I was on-site at a history presentation and I was doing a leather work demo. When heavily marked I just melted it down and let it set again with a fresh surface. But I found it still dulled the punches as it is still metal. I still occasionally use one of the lead blocks when I'm too lazy to move over to the big block just for one small hole My block sits on a 6mm thick rubber slab on a special stamping/punching table I built. I do need to add extra rubber to the bottom of the table tho as it is still not quiet enough