fredk

dunno, I just place the tin in very hot water. pop the lid open first or it blow off. be careful not to get water into the tin. then I just leave it to warm up whilst i sort things out ready for glueing, tidying the work space [yeah, right] so its maybe 5 to 10 minutes for a full-ish 250ml tin

I use regular contact adhesive. I find that it flows better after the tin is heated in jug of hot water

Are these the same as what you are looking for? https://www.holstersmith.com/vcom/mountings-belt-loops-canted-c-547_632.html

It sounds like you are using it neat and the two coats are sufficient. The surface is rejecting the third coat because it is sufficiently sealed and there is no room for it to soak in. The third coat is pooling and drying by evaporation. I find some leathers will just keep soaking up resolene and some are sealed after just a couple of coats. I dilute my res 1:1 with water and dip, spray or brush/sponge it on If you really need that third coat, apply the res and if it starts pooling just keep sponging or brushing it over as it dries

Does the leash attach to a body harness or choke collar? 1. If it attaches to a body harness I would make a small bag, about 6" x 6", out of soft belly leather or upholstery type leather. Attach it to the body harness with Chicago screws. 2. If it has to go on the leash I would sew up a tube shaped bag, again using upholstery leather or soft belly leather. A tube about 8" long x 3" diameter, with end opening and flap. Attach along its length using Chicago screws 1. 6 x 6 bag along the shape of this one from Tandy https://www.tandyleather.eu/en/product/bike-bag-kit Construction can be as simple or as detailed as you are content to do

That there would be quick. I have some projects I started in '05 - thats 2005, not 1805! [or is it? ] I think I even have some from '02. Anyone who knows me knows that they'll be done in time for Easter/Summer/Thanks Giving/Christmas - but I never tell them what year! My 2019 New Year Resolution is the same as it was for '18, '17, '16. . . its to not make any New Year Resolutions!!

N.I. is a very wet place. I rent a half of a 40footer container for storage. The container is bone dry [almost], no condensation nor leaks. I've stored my excess leather, both chrome and veg tan in it for several years now. There has been no problem. I store the leather in rolls on open shelves of shelving units. They get a bit of air round them but not a breeze

I would seal with either Resolene; several thinned coats, or Eco- Super Shene, then when thats dry rub in some Aussie Leather conditioner

From experience; don't waste your money on cheap sets, unless they are quality ones discounted. Get round to 'garage' sales, antique shops et cetera and you can pick up old, quality, 'wad' or gasket punches for cents. I've picked up a few larger sizes from 'car boot' sales, farmer's markets and antique shops for no more than about £1 each [$1.30] I/we had rather a lot of them but lost most when my son's garage business was burgled and we lost a number of tool boxes and equipment. I use a Tandy rotary punch a lot and individual punches for harder to reach areas caveat; I've found that even 'quality' named tools can be rubbish, names like Draper. Their punches on their rotary punch was so soft the metal punches bent going thru 3mm leather. I tried several - all the same. I expect the ones recommended by other on here will be worth their money

If I may add - I work in millimeters. 3/4" = 20mm, 5/8" = 16mm. I set my holes at 15mm apart, so roughly your 5/8" Depending on age of child. For the very young [up to about 6 y/o] 5 holes, a bit older [7 to 12 y/o] 5 for girls and 7 for boys

Woodworker's PVA is water based so I just thin it down with water. No exact measure, its sort of PVA into a tub, add some water, stir well and paint on. I use PVA which is water proof when dry

I vary between an A0 sized self healing mat, or a scrap of hardboard/MDF. For when I need to really press the knife down and maybe trim something its the self healing mat. For lighter cutting I use the MDF board. When that is scored too much It goes to recycling then a new one is bought. I give my MDF a coating or two of thinned PVA glue. I find that helps lengthen its life

1. My timber yard had no 4 x 4 in stock when I visited. Largest was 2.5 x 3. But they had some 2 x 2 off-cuts and they cut it down and the blocks cost me all of £2 [$3] 2. I used standard water-proof woodworking PVA. Gluing to about 1/2" of each end of each block. That should take care of the punch hitting a glued joint. No way is the punch going to go in as much as 3/8", maybe 1/4" but no more 3. The boards around the outside are mostly decorative - to make it all look tidy. Very little chance of a block coming loose and breaking away. They also make a grip for easy lifting and moving of the block. I made my block to fit the top of a special stamping/punching table I built 4. The roughness of the end grain on mine can leave marks on the leather sometimes. I usually punch from grain to flesh, but some times I need to go flesh to grain. To prevent wood grain marks I just put a thin bit of waste leather between the two. A harder wood than mine would probably have a smoother end grain. My wood is cheap framing white-wood. The cheapest one can get

I have a few small blocks of lead which I used to use for punching into. I mainly used them when I was on-site at a history presentation and I was doing a leather work demo. When heavily marked I just melted it down and let it set again with a fresh surface. But I found it still dulled the punches as it is still metal. I still occasionally use one of the lead blocks when I'm too lazy to move over to the big block just for one small hole My block sits on a 6mm thick rubber slab on a special stamping/punching table I built. I do need to add extra rubber to the bottom of the table tho as it is still not quiet enough

I got a timber yard to cut me 3" lengths of 2x2, I then glued them side to side to make a punching block using the end grain of the blocks as the top surface. The advantages are; 1. You don't take a chunk of wood or rubber out of the surface. 2. punching on the side of wood the wood compresses either making it harder to cut a clean hole or giving you a distorted one, but not with this 3. You need to change your punching surface frequently but not with this. 4. I've found my punches stay sharper longer The black marks are my alignment marks; so that no two blocks have the end grain pattern running in the same direction. I've used this block for many years. The punches do leave circular ring marks in the end grain but have never removed any wood. This cost me just a few ££ to make

I'll be making to the pattern I suggested but it'll be fancy cos I'll do it as a holster for my new cell phone Off to sort out the leather now. . . . .

Question; the collar I've circled is spring loaded. When I press it the shaft for the foot-raising lever raises up. For Why?

Even tho the OP has cut his lines he can use those to guide a groover. A stitching groover would do the job too

I would use a groover to cut a, er. . . groove, rather than a cut line. I use woodcarver's V and U chisels for cutting certain grooves. I also sometimes, rarely, use the Tandy V gouge : https://www.tandyleather.eu/en/product/craftool-adjustable-v-gouge-2

Maybe use a slit and a big button or wood toggle - easier for wee hands. . . . and quicker cos yer cowboy haz gotta get to his ammo quick afore he's a deader edit; PS. I think I'll knock one up tonite or tomorrow, jus cos I wanna.

I forgive you This time

Thanks. I believe I have both roller and teflon feet which should fit this. I'll check later that I do still have them and that they fit. They were bought for the 15K

Up to you how far you wanna go; I'd make a simple one. One big back piece which includes the front flap. A bit of a welt and one front piece. The flap part of the back comes over the top and is held closed by a Sam Brown stud. One wide-ish bit on the back for the belt to slip thru. The belt loop can be riveted on. Using soft leather for the front it'll stretch enough to hold a whole bunch of 8 round caps.

Well no decent cowboy is gonna go around with only 8 shots. He's gonna need a lot more for those gunfights. Have you any conchos? put a star one on the pouch?

Got it. It was seized up a bit tho. A bit of brute force and oiling got the stop plate moving. Moves real smooth now. Did a little bit-by-bit dismantling and oiling - yup I'm using the proper oil. Had a stiff spot in the mechanism. Turned out to be mostly a big divot of fluff between the teeth bit and the case. As the teeth moved back they jammed a bit by the fluff. Once cleared and all oiled its moving like Fred Astaire on an ice rink The plastic handle for the handcrank was in the accessory box. Its all ok, but I might change the handle to a wooden one. The shaft and release parts of the bobbin winder were slightly seized up. Once again, oiled and worked and its working fine. I thought of leaving it off but then there is a big ugly gap there. Come 'ere, I'll tell ye a funny one. I said there was no serial number. There is. On the main casting, just under the front lip. Each time I'd opened it up to see under I'd been putting one of my hands right over the serial number plate! big Doh!