fredk

Rub in some bees'wax / neetsfoot oil mix.

Airbrushing the dye on can get the same penetration. I've only recently started spraying dye on. Just tried it on some coffee cup cuffs. Make sure your leather is on the wet side of damp, thin the dye a bit more than usual and apply many, many coats

1. dampen you leather 2. dilute your dye 1:1 or even 1d:2w 1 & 2 together will get the dye going deeper into the leather 3. apply diluted dye; many coats might be needed until good colour density is obtained 4. allow to dry out for at least 24 hours after last coat 5. buff with a clean cloth, buff again and again until no colour is seen on the cloth 6. apply a finish sealer like resolene; thin it like the dye and apply several coats, front and back. 7. allow to dry for at least 24 hours 8. apply a beeswax/neetsfoot oil type mix, or something similar 9. allow it to rest for 24 hours then buff it up

also, contact Le Prevo up in Newcastle. They often have odd hides at discount prices. A large piece from them costs less than a small piece from Tandy, plus they have eons of experience

any regular hardware store will carry them in stock. The bigger the store, the greater the range of sizes and finish

Very nice work indeedy The screws are pozi-drive [or Phillips drive] counter-sunk head screws or machine screws set into screw cups - depends on what Mike has on the other side, if anything I use brass screw cups to back yellow or gold rhinestone rivets and shiny nickle-plated ones for silver and coloured rhinestones. Holds em better and makes em look a bit bigger

Saw another use of WTF? today WTF? "Where's the Food?"

That is nice

Basically you only need to allow for the thickness of the leather to be used, and most times you don't even need to do that. A male fitting tightly into the female part will just sit further out when leather is put between. The only time you really need to consider leaving a size difference is if you are using a buck and a frame around it to press the leather down over it

In the UK you can buy a car leather upholstery cleaner which will give off a 'new leather' smell after use. Car dealers use it on both new cars and used cars. The cleaner works on the PVC and plastic parts as well, shining them up but adding that 'leather' smell

I've not received an email about this and there is nowt on their website about it

In RAF we had one very important one; WOP....... Warrant-Officer on Prowl Its not so much the abbreviations, which are now quite common, but the names of everyday things that can cause confusion eg; US truck = UK pick-up. in UK a truck is a heavy goods vehicle weighing 3 tons or more or a small light weight wheeled vehicle for handling very large goods US, bill-fold, UK - wallet.

Almost all those abbreviations are standard fare in the UK, mainly due to t'internetty Not all British slang comes from Cockney!* TTFN was a popular phrase coined by a favourite radio presenter called Jimmy Young * in fact most British slang has nowt to do with them sort of Londoners IMHO = here, mostly is In My Humble Opinion we separate ATM from atm. But it is extremely rare for anyone here to ask for an ATM; they usually call it a 'hole in the wall' or 'cash point' Old one which still causes confusion; LOL - to some = Laughs Out Loud, to some = Lots Of Love afair, it was Lots Of Love originally to the British, but the US and international Laugh.... took over; thus older users use it for Love WTF; has a clean form, = Why The Face?

I did this game board about 15 years ago using a gold gel ink pen; I also use metallic ink pens by Molotow and also paint pens No problems so far. But seal the ink with resolene or something similar; the ink remains water soluble. If your item gets in the least bit wet the ink will thin and run.

I would 'wash' them down with lots of cellulose [lacquer] thinners and clean rags; until they are about dry of that oil, then apply neetsfoot oil to restore the lost oil, but not as much nfo, just enough to feed the leather

x

Taking a random sampling, we in the UK are paying approx 50% more than you in Canada for the same item, plus you have items in that flyer that are not in mine

They also used shellac varnish. I believe shellac is still used on the boots of the Household Cavalry, the long ones worn for official duties

A nice thing to solve the problem. Did you prep your leather before dyeing? I give mine a wipe over with a clean rag dampened with cellulose (aka lacquer) thinners to remove any surface contamination. Even some grease from your fingers can leave contamination which will prevent dye penetrating properly

Most excellent The kid wot rides that will need a leather jacket and cap. ala Marlon Brando in 'The Wild One'

I bought a brass one from a Chinese seller on ebay

Seal the dye with several coats of diluted Resolene. Then apply several coats of Snow Proof paste. Even apply some soft bees wax and buff it in. Then it will be rain-shower resistant, but not totally rain proof, it will never be that

Found square head Chicago screws https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Solid-Brass-Square-Head-Binding-Stud-Leather-Belt-Bag-Chicago-Screw-Nail-Rivet/152694517062?hash=item238d4d6d46:m:mjGLK7T9Mvki-qyv6zAuvxw

Thats doubly clever, that pipe. For dipping belts I use plenty of dye in my dip tray and pull a belt through, one end in each hand, back and forth. It takes time and care to get an even coating of dye. I forsee a visit to a builders merchants soon for some PVC pipe.

double; I know you can't cut the edges and retain the integrity of the rivet head. Cutting off one part of the edge is one way I use to remove them. The Chicago screws is the way I think. You can buy square ones from Chinese sellers on ebay