fredk

The gasolene will have evaporated off by now. It'll leave some smell. I would hang them where a breeze can blow thru them for a couple of days then treat them with neatsfoot oil to replace any oils the gasolene has taken out of them. The smell will go eventually, quicker if you don't lock them away in a drawer or some place, but hang them up so air can get around them

I use side-cutters, but I have a woodworking round awl with a steel shaft which fits into the rivet shaft. Cutting the soft metal of the rivet carefully doesn't even mark the awl shaft and it keeps the rivet part round. ~~ however, I keep quite a range of rivets of different shaft lengths so I rarely need to cut any down

Wot he says; I'd go for the easy way. double-tape some wet & dry to a board and rub the stamp over it, using a circular motion. Use 600 grade w&d, wet. You could also use a marker on the letters and when the marker ink is gone off them you'll know they should all be even.

Nothing has changed for me. Might it be your browser changing the look? I used to run Firefox and a certain website had a very different look on my desk computer compared to my laptop

well, thats certainly a different take on the usual boring look of the points. Nicely done

Tandy does the four suits as individual stamps in their 3D/2D mini stamp range. You'll need to scroll thru the list to find them; https://www.tandyleather.eu/en/category/mini-2-d-3-d-craftool-leather-stamps

2 inches - which way? Length, width or for 2 inch strap?

Risky; soak the sandal in hot water; block out the sandal with scrunched up newspaper, and dry quickly in a very warm, but not overly hot, environment or with a hairy dryer played over it

I would wash it down using warm water with detergent soap and a very small about of bleach added

For this I use a Desk Top Publishing programme ~ aka DTP With this I can import any image into a box on a page. I can resize the image box, in direct proportion ~ that is, if the image is A by 3A, I can resize it to 2A by 6A, etc, or I can stretch the box, to A by 6A, or 3A by 3A etc. I can rotate the image box, add other image boxes on top or underneath the first one. I can draw simple geometric shapes within the image box or alter its shape from square, round, oval, star etc. I can add writing to the image box. If I download an image from the internet I save it to a file then drag it into the image box on the DTP page for manipulation To scan an image I use a printer/scanner/copier. I scan the image into a basic photograph editing programme. I clean it up then save it to a file to then drag it into the DTP page The artwork for this stamp was all done on the DTP, using several overlaying boxes; eg each letter of LAZY~D is in a separate box, each rotated, the oval frame is a separate box. It was drawn up at about 15cm across. When it was done it was exported as a JPEG image and sent to the stamp maker for a brass stamp 3cm across. hth

Check out Poundland, Home Bargains and B&M for a thermos mug. Anywhere from £1 to £4.99 for the same mug. I have a couple for use at motorsport events deviation; that there would be handy for keeping pots of glue/resin/dye warm [do not put all three in the same pot!] https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Coffee-Warmer-Office-MWBLKPDQ-RB/dp/B000CO89T8

A. Don't have wifey B. I never waste a cup of coffee C. 1/2 mugs of tea; on average, 4 by 1/2 cups, sometimes set down in another room, eg, next to one of the computers, or is it on the cutting table, assembly desk or. . . in the kitchen? Today, just one.

If you want to try pipes; go to a carpet shop. Carpets come on heavy duty cardboard tubes, about 13 ft long. Cut down they'll give you 3 tubes each about 4ft long. usually you can get the tubes for free. I stored this way for a while. I recently changed to using large long plastic boxes. The boxes are meant for storing small-ish reusable Christmas trees. The boxes are about 4ft long and about 15 inches deep by 12 inches wide. The boxes have handles on each end and 4 wheels on the bottom. I just throw the rolls into one on these now. I have two stacked in my back hall for ready-use leather, plus a 'Christmas Tree' storage bag for a few odd rolls of leather and material. Other leather stock is stored rolled up in card boxes on shelves in my storage unit

How big a round hole does youse need? I bought these; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3pcs-Tool-Leather-Carving-Hole-Craft-Prong-Stitching-Punching-Punches-Tool/283327622505?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 I bought a set with 4mm spacing and a set with 6mm spacing. They make holes about 1mm diameter, Fine for 1mm thread or round lacing

Try this seller; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Leather-Hide-Skin-Black-Leather-Side-3-5mm-Drum-Dyed-with-a-print-superb/254055721711?hash=item3b26e6aaef:g:CYkAAOSwEA9a~YbP:rk:23:pf:0 I got some thin leather off him last November. It was far better than what he said it was and delivery to me was only 3 days

This is the MDF buck I made recently for to wet mould a holster case for my new mobile [aka cell] phone. Its not even neatly carved and not sealed. The leather was bulldog clamped to the base part. The finished holster case;

If its anything similar to stuff I was given about 20 years ago; its reconstituted compressed card spray coated with a PVC liquid. A factory in Belfast which made similar closed down about 20 years ago and I was given a van load of belts. They were all marked 'Genuine Leather'. I used a load on toy shields then had the remainder burnt on a bonfire

I use MDF board. Its easy to carve with a heavy duty craft knife and rasps. Layers of thin MDF can be built up using just PVA glue. The 'frame' plank is not necessary. On some bags, I mark roughly where the sewing line will be then staple the wet leather to the base, the holes made by the staples are taken up in the holes for sewing. On small bags I use bulldog clamps and lolly sticks to hold the leather in place. With one set of pouches I had to do the leather was wrapped round to the back of the pouch and stapled to the MDF block - the sewing on these was to be hidden at the back, not visible on the front sides and bottom. MDF has no grain to worry about, is cheap and often odd sized off cuts can be obtained at DIY or builders stores or even from building sites.

I went to your link. Shop around for a better price. I recently bought one of these from a Chinese seller on ebay. It cost me £26 including delivery charges [about $33 maybe?] I've not used mine yet. It needs very careful setting up, but once set up it apparently will do a grand job - according to other users on this forum Edit; Heres a link to one at £21 [about $27?] https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Metal-Leather-Splitter-Rollers-Device-Edge-Skiver-Paring-Cutter-Craft-DIY-Tool-/303030069152?hash=item468dffe7a0

I found that in my case it was my browser [Firefox] it doesn't happen on Chrome

On all belts I make, if I use rivets I use at least 4 and often 6. Two up by the buckle, and two each side of the strap keeper. If the buckle has a built in keeper then only 4 rivets, two by the buckle and two at the end of the strip of leather folded over

No problem at my end. Changing pages is as fast as turning a page in a book. Refreshing a page is almost instant

Use a ready-rivet? Post diameter is usually 1/8" [about 3mm] and vary in length and can be cut shorter if necessary. Head diameter from about 4mm upwards. Looks like a double-head rivet of 8mm diameter heads would do the job.

1. dampen your leather, not sodding wet, but wet like you are going to tool it. This will help the dye spread thru the leather 2. Dipping doesn't need a big tank; here's a method I use for long straps, its based on how I used to develop films in the field. Put gloves on, put thinned dye into a jug or tray. Dip one end of dampened strap into dye, pullout by pulling the length of strap thru the dye in the jug/tray. Holding each end of the strap pull it back and forth thru the dye, making sure the ends get into the dye as well. Do not allow any part of the strap to remain in the dye any longer than any other part. Work it back and forth steadily for a short time then hang up to dry. There will be some dye running down the strap; form your first two fingers into a V and run them down the strap, one finger front and one back of the strap, wearing rubber gloves this action will squeegie the excess dye to the bottom of the hanging leather quickly, not allowing it to dry in streaks down the length [although, allowing that leads to interesting patterns] 3. for large flat areas consider using a spray brush to spray the dye on. I've only just started using this method as I don't make anything very big. It does give a very even finish. I use a spray brush which cost under $20 hth

UK company Norsol links: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NORSOL-Leather-colourant-pigment-paint-recolour-dye-Industry-Std-120ml/152663364215?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140122125356%26meid%3D02a2aaa912654f6ba5b3ab9ed215a5e4%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D3%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D113026087360%26itm%3D152663364215&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NORSOL-LEATHER-EDGE-FINISH-DYE-PAINT-COAT-COLOURANT-STAIN-120ML/152729174649?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140122125356%26meid%3D7378d0744840477eae9d86605c21d325%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D152663364215%26itm%3D152729174649&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851