fredk

As the OP asked his question over 4 years ago I reckon he got the waterproofing done But just to point out; there is a vast difference between canauba wax and carnauba cream. The cream is water soluble so will not waterproof for very long. Carnauba wax is very hard and will, if melted into the leather, waterproof [aka make it water resistant] for a some time. Usually carnauba wax is mixed with beeswax to lower its melting temperature and its hardness. A carnauba/beeswax mix is easier to apply and will last just as long. @paloma : do not worry about getting the right words or language. This forum has members from all over the world and most of us on here allow for the fact that not everyone has 'English' as a first language. I also allow that sometimes what someone writes on the forum comes across not how they meant it to sound. I put this through google translate twice; ne vous inquiétez pas pour obtenir les bons mots ou la bonne langue. Ce forum a des membres du monde entier et la plupart d'entre nous comprenons que tout le monde n'a pas l'anglais comme première langue. Je permets également que, parfois, ce que quelqu'un écrit sur le forum ne soit pas ce qu'il voulait dire.

Bring up beyond room temperature. If its in a reasonable sized container set it in a bucket of very nearly hot water for a while. After some time give it a vigorous shake. You might need to repeat this a few times. It'll come back to normal. It's only 'off' if it smells rancid

Basic answer; no. What you could do on the next one is to either use two layers of leather along and around the snap, with a hole in one layer so the snap is recessed, or use one thicker layer and skive around the snap place so its sort-of countersunk

I'm suggesting waist sizes; basically the strap from the buckle end to last hole. You'd want more for the strap folding around the buckle bar, a bit more along the back to hold the keeper on if you don't use a buckle with a keeper, and then maybe 4 inches past the last hole. Thus a mans belt for waist size 38 inch to 46 inches would be: 2 inches [on back] + 46 [from buckle to last hole] + 4 inches = 52 inches [roughly] Suggestion; for craft fairs, make long belts but don't punch the holes. Do that on site as a bespoke service. Keep a note book to note down what sizes you had to punch for. Then for future fairs you can make some belts pre-punched in some of the sizes.

I got what I ordered

One of the easiest questions to ask and one of the hardest to answer. For men; range from 32 inch up to 54 inch For women from 30 inch to 40 inch Men; you can have belts going 32 to 40 inch in holes on them, and ones going 38 inch to 46 inch, and 44 to 54 inch ~ that sort of range Women: similar but smaller groupings; 30 - 34, 34 - 38, 36 - 40

a. Only paper work is the standard Tandy packing list. No VAT number, I didn't ask for one as I don't require it b. I've found there is no need to keep any paperwork for any longer than 2 years or so, then only for HMRC purposes and audited accounts. When I had Limited Companies the necessary papers went into the files at Company House. I've bought from the US and the business sellers have paid the necessary duties/taxes at their end and the item just floated to me Tandy keeps telling me when I order I'll be paying VAT just as I have always done. Whether this time is a one-off or the norm only time and more orders will tell us

I asked both Tandy and DHL about customs, taxes and VAT and never got a real clear answer However, after some palava and missed delivery dates by DHL and me chasing Tandy via emails I finally got my order at approx 15.00 BST today. No customs duties, taxes or VAT had to be paid by me. The £440 I paid directly to Tandy was the full and total amount Evidence from DHL says it went thru UK customs clearing

Where are you getting your leather from? I rarely clean or prep veg tan leather before working on it. I've never had any problem of any area refusing dye. I do have some upholstery leather which is pre-dyed and has a sealant on it. To cut thru that I wash down with cellulose thinners aka lacquer thinners [?] I wash down the leather with cellulose thinners once or twice. I mean wash it, not just wipe it over. I use a rag well soaked in the thinners. This does remove oils from the leather but I put some back later with a nfo mix

A lot of soldering irons take a 4mm diameter bit. I'd not touch this with the proverbial barge pole. They've altered it from original spec. You can buy low powered soldering irons for as low as £5 [ $6.50-ish?] When I kept bees I altered a 40w soldering iron to operating at a low temperature by simply wiring in a resistor

This is the message I got in answer to my queries about taxes et cetera; quote Hi Fred, Orders will be shipped by DHL Express. Customs and duties will be prepaid. We will be charging UK customers a flat fee of 10 British pounds per order, regardless of weight. DHL is telling us to 2-3 shipping days once it leaves our warehouse. end quote As for DHL delivery time to me; as I've said elsewhere it can take DHL anything up to 2 months to deliver 'Express 48' items to me. So their quote of 2 to 3 days to Tandy is already false. By Tandy's timing I should receive the parcel today, not next Tuesday.

I'd not use WD40 on this as WD40 leaves a residue which lint just loves to stick to. Nor would I use any of the motor oils. You can get superthin sewing machine oil, but I use good ole 3-in-1 oil To clean this I would wash and rinse it down using paraffin oil. That will wash off the old oil and take away the stuck on lint. use a 1" stiff paint brush to help. Then re-oil using s/m oil or 3-in-1

I'll throw my $2 worth in; Last week when I heard Tandy Manchester is to close I finalised an order I'd been sitting on. I thought the order would be filled by Manchester, but it went thru to Texas When I got the dispatch advice I noticed it was for far less money than it had been, so I checked off the items to see what had been left out. Everything I ordered was still there but each item was about 15 to 20% cheaper. A tax was added on the sub-total. Even that the final tally is some 11% less ~ £440 opposed to £494 Tandy Texas says DHL delivery will be 2 to 3 days to me. DHL says 7 days [maybe]

I regularly wear a similar hat, but of more flexible leather. Mine has 'patina' now. With it and with any leather which has acquired water stain marks I soak it totally in warm water then block it out with scrunched up newspaper and periodically wipe it over with a cloth to help dry it out. It usually takes a few days to a week to dry out in my climate. When its dry I apply a fresh coating of a water resistant waxing, which works for showers until the next big rain

linky; https://www.rustins.ltd/rustins/our-products/renovators-for-metal/ metal-laquer Rustins is designed for lacquering brass door furniture so it does last. I used to use it as a barrier between metals and metals-materials

Rustins makes a metal lacquer which is robust and long lasting and is inexpensive.

May I have a bit of your time please? I want to tell you of something and from that you may draw some ideas, or not. Yonks ago I was a member of a polymer clay forum. Like this forum we had members all over the world but the HQ was in the US. I was the only male member btw. About 3 or 4 times year we had a 'Swap' We proposed, discussed and then voted for a subject for the Swap. Not all the members took part every time, those that did went away and made something in polymer clay to meet the subject. We then posted our creations to one member in the US along with some postage money. This member then sort of mixed up the creations and posted them out to the members who participated. Thus each of us got something made by someone else. Only after receiving our Swap did we post up photos of what we received and what we made The basis of the Swap was just make 1 for 1 back, many of us made 1 for each participant - so if 12 of the group were playing I made 11 items and received 11 back Subjects chosen were simple eg; food, dragons, sea creatures, and other things on which new techniques could be tried. Thus it was matter of each of interpreted the subject and how we created something but we were all working on the same subject

There are still a few places which will only deal with trade. Near Belfast is an outlet called Makro. It only sells to business people and you need to register - and they check. They sell business / office goods and food and more. I used to be registered but let it lapse as I could buy everything they sold at prices far less in Tesco or ASDA

aye, the 'rules' and why-fors are different here for 'trade counters'. Usually the business will give better discount and allow credit to registered trades, others have to pay immediately and get the basic cheaper price. If I want some car supplies from the trade outlet my son deals with I cannot pay cash if I want a low price; I have to put it on #1's account, then pay him for the item. The cash price is about 10% dearer than the account price, but even that higher price is lower than retail outlets

I got an email from Tandy this morning. quote Dear Valued Customer, There's no easy way to say this but, Tandy is closing its beloved Manchester store Friday 7th June 2019. We greatly appreciate your business over the years and will miss helping customers face-to-face. Even without a local Tandy store, we hope you continue to cultivate your passion for crafting leather. We have all of the materials and tools you need online at www.tandyleather.eu. To persuade our valued customers across the pond to stick with us, we revamped our shipping program. Now, 2-day shipping is standard for only £10 and Tandy is paying all import taxes and duties. To sweeten the deal, even more, we’re offering FREE shipping on orders over £150. Your business is important to us here at Tandy Leather. We appreciate your understanding and welcome any questions. Please feel free to contact tlfhelp@tandyleather.com with questions. Even though the store is closing, we hope to continue servicing you as though we were still neighbors. Sincerely, Tandy Leather Team end quote

Thank you for the compliment friend, but not really so. I just comment on things I have experience of

I've never come across anything. You may have stumbled on a new idea range. Perhaps if a cover was made in the way of an axe head cover?

That can work a bit but then you need to pull out the remains through a small hole, usually damaging the hole and enlarging it. Thus needing a bigger head rivet to replace it. I prefer electric-wire side-cutters. End cutters will work as well. With single sided rivets I use needle nose pliers to get two sides of the base up a bit then wriggle the side-cutters under until I can cut the post with them, then the front/top just drops away. On double headed rivets, its the same procedure, but its always on the reverse of the item, if there is one and it can be got to. Sometimes the cap on the rivet base will pop off as well, leaving the base as per a single headed rivet. I prefer about 3mm of the post above the leather. Its a fine judgement, too little and the head won't hold, too long and the post will bend and the head will drift to one side. Another thing to remember is the hole in the leather thru which the post has to go. It should be exact, or a tiny wee bit too small. It will hold the rivet just where you want it and help give a tight joint. Too large a hole and it allows the post to drift and widen before the post mushrooms out in the head, leading to a joint just not as tight - still tight but just not as good . eg a rivet with a post diameter 3mm should go thru a hole 3mm or 2.5mm, or even 3.18 mm [1/8 inch] at most but not 3.5mm or even 4mm I sometimes cut the post down by sliding it on a scratch awl then lightly cutting around it with the side-cutters, if it doesn't cut off the bit it at least weakens it so a few wiggles and it breaks off. But I just keep a very large range and large quantity of my commonly used rivets. They can be bought in bulk cheaper than Tandy sell just a few for. edited for shpelings

On shoes I've re-heeled I've nailed from the inside into the heel block then the interior in-sole covers the nail heads, even tho they are slightly countersunk into the sole material

Perhaps it hard to tell in the photo but mine have diamond shaped teeth