Dwight

My first instinct would be that you "hung" it after you sprayed it, . . . I always lay my holsters down flat after dying, . . . otherwise I get exactly what you got, . . . light on the top, . . . dark on the bottom where the stain migrated. I learned about that several years ago, . . . made a bunch of belts, . . . all the same day, . . . had my brain dis-engaged, . . . only the black ones were up to par. All the brown ones were very dark at the buckle end, . . . light at the tongue end, . . . cause that was the way I hung them when I drug em through the dye tank. I'd just dye it black, . . . put a coat of Resolene on it and sell it, . . . it should look real good then. May God bless, Dwight

Most of the time I used the 1/16" bit. The shaft of the bits on my machine were all 1/8, . . . but the cutting end was a different size, . . . and the 1/16 was the one I'm pretty sure I used. For leather, . . . it has to be sharp, . . . and you have to go slow. May God bless, Dwight

I almost made one once, . . . and had decided if I did, . . . the mag would go along the sight track, . . . up front. Then I talked myself out of it, . . . had forgotten the whole deal until now. But then again, . . . if the customer wants a purple holster with 8 inch yellow fringe, . . . he ought to be able to get it, . . . somewhere. May God bless, Dwight

From what I can see, . . . it looks like a steel stamp set. They are used for stamping metal mostly, . . . but I've used them on leather, . . . mine don't look perfectly like that, . . . but close. It could also be an engraver. I used to have one, . . . it used a bit something like a little drill bit, . . . very high speed, . . . did a beautiful job on leather, wood, plastics. My machine was similar to this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Hermes-IM-3-GM-3-Operating-Instructions-Manual-11pages-/251794664682?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3aa021acea It would duplicate that perfectly. May God bless, Dwight

You are very welcome, . . . happy leather working. May God bless, Dwight

Although limited, my experience with drum dyed veg tan is that it definitely is harder to work. You have to be a little creative in dealing with it. It does not want to bend, fold, stamp, and tool as well in my experience. HOWEVER, . . . if you take the time with it, . . . it does turn out nice. I quit using it, . . . preferring to dye my own, . . . cutting down on the inventory needs of different weights of different colors, etc. May God bless, Dwight

Jenn, . . . I do holsters, belts, knife sheaths, chaps, chinks, . . . and assorted & sundry other leather "stuff". If you want to avoid the hassle, . . . buy pre-dyed leather, . . . many folks do that, . . . they do not have "dye" problems for 99% of the time. I don't like being limited as to my color choices, . . . so I dye my own projects. I use Feibings oil dye, . . . generally cut 50/50 with their reducer, . . . and I "dip" dye, . . . meaning I submerge my product for several seconds in the dye, . . . none of that dauber / brush / mop, . . . etc, . . . dunk it and dye it is my motto. I then let it dry a full 24 hours, . . . lay it flat, . . . flesh side down if you can. Avoid hanging up large or long projects, . . . the dye will migrate to the bottom, giving you a light color on top, . . . darker on the bottom, . . . I then get a wash cloth type rag, . . . and buff the item until no more pigment comes off it. It will also shine a bit when I'm done. I use white paper towels to make sure there is no more rub off. Depending on the product, . . . Resolene (50/50 with water) or Bag Kote (80/20 with water) or Aussie Wax, . . . depending on the effect and the finish I want. Resolene is a hard, acrylic finish, . . . also sun proof. I like it best. Bag Kote is a softer finish, . . . not sun proof, . . . aggravating sometimes to work with, . . . produces a softer finish. Aussie Wax is a soft finish, . . . nice feel. NONE are water proof, . . . you want vinyl, nylon, rayon, or aluminum for that, . . . leather cannot be water PROOFED. A good dye job, properly rubbed down, . . . and at the least, a coat of neetsfoot oil and another rubbing, . . . there should be no problem with dye rubbing off. Acrylic paints do add a nice color to projects. My personal opinion of water based dyes is not very good, . . . but then again I have a process i like and works for me, . . . so I don't have to re-invent the wheel. As far as the colors lasting, . . . staying brilliant and beautiful, . . . put it in a showcase, lock it, it'll stay that way. Take a piece of leather out and use it, . . . it won't. May God bless, Dwight

Have you thought of going to Goodwill and / or Salvation Army store? You can usually find several there, . . . get the one that fits you for less than $5, . . . take it home, . . . dissect it with a razor knife, . . . iron the pieces flat, . . . you have your pattern. AND, . . . if you buy the right one, . . . throw away the outside, . . . use the liner on your leather vest. May God bless, Dwight PS: What part of cheese land do you call home???

Speaking from both experience and practicality, danfordman, I would just put that holster up somewhere and get a new one for the KelTec. 1: Someone, somewhere, someday, . . . may want that old Ted Blocker Holster (try selling it on Ebay), . . . as they have a "prize" pistol that would look wonderful in it. 2: You will NOT be able to re-work it to give you the satisfaction of a virgin piece of leather will give when made into a proper holster. The KelTec is "similar in size and shape", . . . but a 1911, a Beretta 92, and a Ruger P85 are all "similar in size and shape", . . . and the only thing you can carry them all three in successfully would be a plastic bag from Walmart. 3: THE single most important work of the holster is to keep your weapon secure, which means snug and tight, . . . which will not happen with used leather, . . . unless you put a flap, thumb break, or suicide strap on it. So all in all, . . . put it away and start fresh would be my advice. May God bless, Dwight

Didja offer him one of them new fangled plastic Walmart bags, . . . tip it just right, . . . you can get 30 degrees on it. May God bless, Dwight

Another option, . . . if you only want to do single layer belts, . . . watch for a Tandy flyer or sale, . . . buy their belt blanks. Already cut, ready to tool. May God bless, Dwight

Whatever you do to the holster needs to be done to the belt if you want them to match. At least that is my theory and practice. May God bless, Dwight

Even better if you can do it, . . . cut the wood 1/8 or 1/4 of an inch thinner than needed, . . . then lay a piece of steel the right thickness under your leather. You might wrap it in saran wrap so that the steel doesn't discolor the leather inside. The steel makes a much better surface on which to tool than does wood. I have little plates of steel just for this purpose, . . . and for doing rivets inside a pouch or bag. Works great. May God bless, Dwight

Thanks, everyone, for your advice. I'm going to attempt to take it up to 207, . . . but I won't jump froggy if it revolts on me. Got plenty of other stuff to do with it that will not need that heavy of thread. May God bless, Dwight

I have made several holsters using suede lining, . . . after a digital conversation with a very famous holster maker who assured me that suede was safe. I have never had any problems with any that I made, . . . and I kinda think the chrome story has been blown out of proportion, . . . IMHO. Back on track, . . . yes, . . . glue the two together (I use contact cement), . . . then treat it as one piece of leather. Cut it, . . . mold it, . . . sew it, . . . shape it, . . . stamp it, . . . whatever you desire. None of mine ever caused a problem. I would, . . . just on the safe side, . . . make a test piece and see if there IS any bleeding of the dye. In all reality, . . . there should not be, . . . but red's are funny. Best wishes and may God bless, Dwight

From the title, . . . I was looking for something with planets, . . . moons, . . . etc. But that is really neat. It'll be a pain to sew, . . . but should look real good when finished. Would you care to post a picture showing all the pieces, . . . some of them were cut off in that one. And I really do like the characters, . . . good job. I think I can see a light tan one maybe, . . . with Darth Vader and one of the white warriors on it. May God bless, Dwight

Thanks, TwinOaks, . . . Would you believe, . . . I got to kicking around in some old threads on here, . . . found an old military "how to" handbook on that very machine. Apparently they were used by parachute riggers, . . . I printed it and made a booklet out of it, . . . now I got to do some serious reading. Table is all bowed too, . . . will need to put a new table on it, . . . but that's a spring project, . . . gotta get myself up to speed on it first. Just one quick final question, . . . should I use pre-lubed or waxed thread with this machine? I use a waxed thread on my Tippmann, and it works real well, . . . just wondering about this one. Again, thanks, may God bless, Dwight

A friend sold me his Singer 111W155 sewing machine over the weekend. Looking on Ebay, I got a pretty good deal. BUT, . . . all I've ever used is my Tippmann Boss, . . . and a household type Singer machine. Just looking for some "pointers" from anyone there who can push me past making silly mistakes with the machine. I'm looking to mainly use it for belts, spur straps, and chaps. Any wisdom you would care to share is more than welcome. I'm particularly interested in the maximum needle size and maximum thread size it will do. Thanks, may God bless, Dwight

I simply refuse to make exceptionally "high ride" holsters. My reputation and my customer's safety is more important to me than a whim on the part of a customer. If he/she decides to go elsewhere, . . . that is their decision. But there needs to be enough of the weapon below the belt line that the weapon does not "rock" back and forth. If it does, . . . it will loosen up the holster, . . . gun will fall out, . . . you will be the bad guy, . . . or worse. Falling firearms are never a good thing. I make mine so that there is a good hand hold between the belt and the grip, . . . and nothing more. If they are wearing their britches up where they should be, . . . it already rides fairly high. You can see my website for a basic example. May God bless, Dwight

Get some soap stone from a welding supply house, . . . or on ebay. You will have to play with it to get it the way you want it, . . . but soap stone will mark on just about anything that has a dry surface. It is my "go to" product when using pre-dyed leather, . . . especially because it just brushes off when you are done. May God bless, Dwight

Well, . . . I don't pay that much for the leather. Now, . . . I'm just a cheap rascal, . . . truth be known, . . . and I buy "bargains" when I can, . . . if I'm pretty sure that it will get used "some day". Leather is definitely one of those commodities. I'm also retired, . . . so my costs are going to be different from yours. You might look here for some idea: http://www.klendasaddlery.com/chaps.htm May God bless, Dwight

The fanninator and red cent gave you some real good advice. I bevel / burnish / etc. all without using any gum trag or edge cote, . . . my edges on my every day work belt are still good, . . . and I know it is in the 10 year old category. May God bless, Dwight

I don't do a lot of stamping on my gun belts I make, . . . most folks want em plain and simple (don't make me mad either). BUT, . . . when I do have to do one, . . . everything else is done but the staining and finishing. It's glued, screwed, buckled, punched, sewed, . . . Reason is simple: that is the part I'm confident in, . . . the stamping is the part I cannot afford to screw up with one of the other processes. If it has to be stamped, . . . I do it then, . . . because it forces me to take my time, . . . be careful, . . . not "mess up a good thing". But, . . . that's just me and my way, . . . May God bless, Dwight

Welcome to the forum, . . . from one of them Buckeyes, . . . Glad to have you aboard. May God bless, Dwight

OTOH, . . . I can knock out a wooden mag in something close to 15 minutes, . . . or at least something that will make the pouch for me. Biggest part of the time is looking through the scrap bucket for a "right sized" piece to make it from. Cut, . . . sand, . . . form, . . . use, Of course, . . . having a cut off saw, . . . jointer, . . . router, . . . band saw, . . . belt sander and an orbital drum sander, . . . and a pile of lumber always at hand does sort of help too. May God bless, Dwight