CowboyBob

Are you using cotton or linen thread? Nylon & polyester won't work in them.

It will need to be straightend IF you want to get the wobble out,I've done alot of them over the yrs BUT it really won't hurt to run it that way.You would have to turn it around & find the high side,take the handwheel off & put a pipe on it 2 meters or so long with an inside diameter close to the shaft & give it a good push.Then put the handwheel back on &give it a few spins & see how it looks & keep doing this until it's straight.

That looks like a 7 class to me,that has missing parts that make the foot lift when it walks.Poor thing has had a rough life,looks like some treadle parts are missing or broken too,which will be real hard to find unless you are able to make themHere's a pic of a 6 class we have,you can see how much beefier it looks.

After you put the shuttle in,close the slide plate & hold the needle thread tightly,turn the machine one full revolution & the bobbin thread will come up through the needle plate.Also when you start sewing you need to hold the needle thread for the first 3-4 stitches. $200.00 is a great price for a new shuttle.

Your right & that is what Turbo needs to do get the bracket out more @ the bottom so it shortens the foward stitch.,some machines feed longer in reverse THEN you shim the top.

On certain materials when it moves it can push foward,but you can you can try it & see what happens,it's an easy adjustment to lower it if needed.

You do not want the feed dog any higher than the needle plate on this model.

Your right,I need to look closer !

Get a punch,nail anything the size of the pin & tap it out! They might of had a problem with the timing slipping is why the did that.You might try putting a screwdriver in the slot & gently try to pry it open.

Yes.you need to remove that pin somebody put in there.

Here the timing . CB441 manual pg8.pdf

No Driver ! Do what I said,put the needlebar all the way down & THEN push the stitch length lever all the way down & then put it in reverse THAT's when when the needlebar should not move front to back .Make sure it's @ the bottom dead center when you do this.

Single needle chainstitch ruffle.

Your hook timing is OK,you need to adjust your feed timing,when the needlebar is all the way down & you push the stitch length up & down the needle shouldn't move front to back.So you need to turn the cam(with the forked rod on it on the left w/2 allens on the cam) on the top shaft one way or the other(just alittle @ a time) (when the needlebar is all the way down) until it stops moving front to back.

It threads the same as the Cowboys & we have a video on our website BUT here's Consews manual on your machine. consew 756R.pdf

I'm glad to see you got it fixed,pretty easy too!!

Yes,the arm needs to be longer.

Here's what we do to everyone we sell,unbolt the arm & lengthen it out & weld it so it looks like this.It also helps to oil the pivot points of both arms too.

Yes,operators manual,Thanks for finding it !!

You have some good tips so far.It the length the same as the one you took out?

I checked & it's something we can still get,my supplier has one in stock.

The #207 takes a lot of upper tension to pull the knot into the leather for a nice looking stitch that's why the next size smaller thread in the bobbin makes it look better.On the larger machines like the CB3200,3500,4500 with the shuttle system & 2-upper tensions works better w/larger thread top & bottom as long as your leather is thick enough for it.

The 42-5 needle bar is the same as a 16-188,41 & etc machine part #4264,there should be some on Ebay.

Sight unseen is hard to price,condition of the table ,if the machine sews or not,so with that in mind from $150.00 - $450.00,try FB marketplace or Craiglist.

Loosen knob in front on rightside & slide down for a longer stitch.