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CowboyBob

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Everything posted by CowboyBob

  1. You would also get a lower speed since the motor pulley would be smaller than the one on the machine,so a motor with 200 rpm low speed would be 100 or less @ the machine on a standard setup.
  2. A smaller thread like size#69 will look better in thin leather like this & give a better looking tension too.
  3. FWIW Industrialsewingmachineman is a drop shipper,he doesn't stock anything so since Cobra is shut down he won't be able to send one either.
  4. The smallest Singer in the front dates to 1958 the next one is 1864
  5. We've tried getting this type of machine to use #138 & it just won't work no matter what you do you just can't get enough tension to make it sew properly.
  6. It's an Adler 267 & a very good machine.
  7. The only way to get all the parts you will need is from another machine Singer has discontinued them a long time ago.I've done them using parts from broken machines & transferring parts but it is alot of work.
  8. Yes,he's been fighting cancer & sold his business last year,the new people don't know machines like he did though from what I've heard. You can give condolences on his FB page https://www.facebook.com/stephen.bonnett.39/posts/1851831321621762
  9. @ConstabularySteve passed away earlier this week.
  10. The roller foot will work good with stiff leather,soft thin leather will lift & cause skipping.A walking foot attachment won't hold up on this machine since most are made out of plastic & even break pretty quickly on the home machines the were designed for.The width of the foot is pretty wide also & will hinder you from getting close to an edge as most leather sewers need to do.
  11. No,the 88x1 are shorter & will not work,someone must of adjusted your machine to use the 16x257 which are easier to get & even available with a leather point.
  12. The 135x5x7 are round points for cloth & vinyl,the 135x8's are D point (diamond) for leather.If you use or were to use the longer 135x17 needles they would break easier since this is a needlefeed machine,that's why it came from the factory with the shorter needles .
  13. It is best to start with a simple thing,when was the last time you cleaned in between the tension discs?Alot of the polester thread is fuzzy & the lint builds up after while. It's real easy to take the nut & spring off,then the release washer,then take the discs out & look in between them for lint & sometimes there might even be grooves that the thread wore into thereby not allowing them the grip the thread like they should.
  14. Looks like the right side of the foot got bent down,try to straighten it by bending it up.
  15. @Desircustoms Here's a manual for it. Rex,Chandler 26-188 A@ manual.pdf
  16. On a 111w you should get it back as far as it will go but not beyond the edge of the table top (in case you put it against a wall) so this way your motor won't be in the way when you mount your knee lift.
  17. I wanted to use a size you could buy over there! Yes,there's alot of things in metric here & you almost have to try & put a wrench to it to find out !
  18. We call these carraige bolts here in the US,they are a M8 x 75mm long
  19. Be sure to let us know what you think of it after you get it sorted out.
  20. There's a Facebook group dedicated to these & most of them seem to enjoy having to tinker with them & the even accomplish some sewing with them.
  21. Looks like a Singer 45K53 their harness stitcher would sew almost 1/2" .
  22. That lever is for the belt guard.
  23. Nice looking stand,you might want to tighten your bobbin tension alittle to keep it from showing on the top.
  24. I've never seen one like that with a top feed on it,it is made for sewing along the edge of carpet.Sure looks like it's been setting for a long time.
  25. This is part # 350299,College should have it.
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