CowboyBob

Yes,the 135x16 is the leather point which comes in many different syles of points like Diamond,S,Tri,LR to name a few common ones ,many people like the look of an S point on leather if you want straight-line looking stitches,if you want a zig-zag look get the LR's.

It looks pretty good but I would tighten the top tension just alittle.And be sure to holdon the needle thread when you start sewing.

This should help. 441 Engineers manual.pdf

Grease dries up overtime & there's rollers in the cams which the grease can pile up on & stop a roller from turning & will eventually wear a flat spot into it..Only grease gears. Also only oil can get into the inside of a roller.

It's a generic one made in China,lookup model Brother# 797 or Artisan 318 the parts are the same.

I would recommend only using sewing machine oil on the top part of it as all motor oils have additives in them that will stain your leather if it splatters on it.Standard sewing machine oil is a clear mineral oil w/o any additives & doesn't stain.You could lube the rollers & cams underneath with motor oil or a mixture it won't hurt, BUT don't ever use grease anywhere in this machine.

It comes with great sadness.I wanted to let everyone know that Greg O'Neill of Keystone Sewing Machine passed away last Monday. He just lost both of his parents last year to covid.He sure will be missed.They say he was in great shape but had a massive heart attack. https://www.legacy.com/obituaries/courierpostonline/obituary.aspx?n=gregg-j-oneill&pid=198075328&fhid=9325

It looks like a clean machine that hasn't had alot of use,I would never sell one like this for less than what they are asking.

https://www.servicethread.com/blog/left-twist-vs.-right-twist-industrial-sewing-thread-differences-and-applications

Lookup 31-15 they both sew the same thickness.

With the outside foot resting on the needle plate & the inside foot raised loosen the 2-screws that hold this assembly on the back pressure bar & drop it down 3/16" & then re-adjust the shaft on top in the back.

When sewing leather most people want as small of a needle hole as possible,that is what our chart is for.Your 42-5 has the barrel shuttle & you shouldn't have a problem sewing 207 w/a#23 as long as your bobbin tension is loose enough.As others have pointed out some times you might need a larger than recommended needle for stiffer leathers which also may require more foot pressure to hold on also.We do stock the 135x16 up to size#25. One more thing are you sure you wrap your thread around the second tension 1 & 1/2 x?

Hey Glenn,the double needles use the 7x23,this uses 7x3 ,7x4 or 794 needles.

The 7-11 is made for book binding & makes a real long stitch,non-walking foot.

Try more foot pressure if that doesn't work then back the hook up alittle to 1.8 or even 2.0 it'll make a bigger loop for the needle to catch.

If you take the grease cup off there's a set screw you need to loosen & it will slide out.

We've done quite a few of them back in the day the 563 hook is taller so that is why you need to mill the upper part ,I forgot how much it was,but there's no grinding or anything underneath,as Grag said using a 563 saddle is the easiest way.

Glenn ,Call Eli @ Landis Sales

Loosen the small slotted screw & turn the hex-headed bolt that is like a worm gear.It's been a while since I worked on one & forgot which way is longer .

Here's a manual on one of the models. Champion_Narrow_Throat_oper_man..pdf

They had a couple of different models & of course the adjustment is different between them so show a pic of the lower area below & to the right of the shuttle.

All you need to do with that Janome is paint it black & it'll sew anything you want!

Standard garment machine like a Singer 241.

The problem with either one of these is getting a shuttle or even the shuttle tension spring.If ever need one they are almost impossible to find.

The LR point will make a zig-zag look to your stitch(which some people like),if you want it to be straight get the S point.