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CowboyBob

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Everything posted by CowboyBob

  1. I can't speak for other dealers BUT I would say anyone that is selling machines probably would or should check them.Many years ago when we were selling the Adler 205's everyone we tested seemed to sew good since they were tested when we got them so we just started shipping them w/o testing a maybe the 3rd one didn't sew when the customer received it so we decided quickly that machine ever goes out w/o being gone over (this means checking every nut,bolt & screw for tightness) we also check timing,tension & oil & test sew every machine & it doesn't matter what brand.
  2. I checked with 2 different suppliers of parts here & they both say they are discontinued!
  3. Hey Ray, It has 35 teeth & here's a manual. 108u20.pdf
  4. Someone put a double needle tension on your machine & cut one of the posts off(on the rightside),you can see the marks, so when you thread it on the lower discs put it through the one on the back so the thread runs straight. I couldn't find a 1245 manual but the threading is the same as this manual which you must have right or else it wouldn't be sewing. Pfaff 141, 143, 145, 151, 153; 142, 144, 146 Instruction Manual.pdf
  5. What size thread is this? And are you SURE it is threaded correctly & don't forget the hold your needle thread the first 3 stitches.
  6. Yes,these screw are 1/8"x44tpi,it's possible that the PO ran them loose & the holes got enlongated & won't stay tight properly,Locktite should work work,if not you could buy a new feed bar if you can't get them to hold.
  7. (it would be offset so you keep your current feed dog & needlebar)Tennessee Attachment here in the US can make a single foot but they would need to know your needle spacing,you could make your own by buying an extra set of double needle feet & cutting off one side.
  8. We got $450.00 for the last 47W66 we sold.
  9. Run the needlebar all the way down(BDC) turn the handwheel towards you so the needlebar raises 3/32" or 2.4 mm & the point of the hook should be @ the needle for it to be timed correctly.Here's the Engineers Manual JUKI 341 engineers manual.pdf
  10. Since it isn't loosening up yet,you could try to take the head off the stand & lay it on the backside then take the thumbscrew off the head(the one that locks it so it won't rotate) & spray WD in there,you'll be able to get more in it & then spin it again.
  11. They are good machines alittle better than a 31-15 since they have the walking(hopping) foot.If she broke a needle & it quit sewing the needlebar probably got pushed up,easy fix.They were made for leather coats & you can get cording feet for them too for upholstery.Also lookup 31-19 & 31-47 all the parts & manuals are the same.
  12. If your on Facebook you should join the group called Chinese Patcher there is a lot of good info on it that will help you.
  13. Yes,the feet will interchange & the larger bobbins from the 545 will work along with a lot of the walking foot parts.
  14. This machine is more for canvas do to fact it has feed dogs underneath that pull the material that can leave teeth marks which is the same as the feet which have teeth(which can be ground off) .There a pressure foot adjustment for the foot pressure on the top left hand side of the machine,you can loosen it by turning to the left. Thread size #138 is about the largest I would recommend for it.
  15. PB blaster or WD40 should dissolve the old oil & free it up.
  16. Before you go tearing it apart you should try putting some good penetrating fluid around the outer part of the washer w/2 screws in it @ the needlebar should free it up.
  17. No,just so it's easy to get to,it is a pinch collar that rotates on a shoulder screw.
  18. Old Coach is right just tighten this screw just alittle behind the back cover.
  19. Yes,he's right about the parts,the small gears that run the shuttle in this machine have been discontinued many years ago & break pretty easy if you were to jam it up.
  20. WE sell them to the Amish,they extend the shaft & use them for clutches on their lineshafts.
  21. Be careful when you oil that you don't get oil in the groove that grabs the wheel or it could cause it to slip shortening your stitch length.
  22. I could be wrong but I think the Standards were made by White,this site is mainly for Industrial machines.There are some sites on Facebook (Vintage Sewing Machines) & the web that can probably help you better.
  23. I think it is a model 128
  24. Are you using cotton or linen thread? Nylon & polyester won't work in them.
  25. It will need to be straightend IF you want to get the wobble out,I've done alot of them over the yrs BUT it really won't hurt to run it that way.You would have to turn it around & find the high side,take the handwheel off & put a pipe on it 2 meters or so long with an inside diameter close to the shaft & give it a good push.Then put the handwheel back on &give it a few spins & see how it looks & keep doing this until it's straight.
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