CowboyBob

Sure it'll work & they even make feet for this machine that are open.

You can use a #138 w/a #22 needle.

As the needle is going down towards the feed dog does it come up about the time the needle enters it? And then it moves back & drops as it pulls out right as it's dropping if so the belt is correct.You can rotate the feed cam on the top shaft to vary when the feet lift.You access this through the hole the feed rod comes out on the back side,there's 2-screws to loosen & rotate it one way & see if it gets better if not go the other.You want the needle to just enter the material as the inside foot comes down to hold it.

The flat side faces the handwheel.

These machines like this with a walking foot have down pressure on the foot ,so what happens is when the back or outside foot lifts up it makes it feel like there's a tight spot in it,it's normal.

Turning the lower screw to the left will make reverse longer,the upper one is for forward.

We had a service call from an Amish man ,his machine tied up,my Son went there & in talking with him he found out he never took the end cover off & oiled it & he didn't oil the rest of it very often either ,so he oiled it & it broke loose .Oil is cheap compared to replacing parts!

Call Tenessee Attachment Co @ 800-251-5000 & tell them you have a Juki TSC-441 & they can make you one,they will also need a sample of the binding & thickness of leather your binding.

There's a bracket hold on with 2-screws behind the tension unit,it probably needs to be bent more to take the gap out between the release plunger & it.You can do this 2-ways,the easiest for me is to wedge a screwdriver in front & one in back of it & bend it so the lower part is bent towards the machine to lessen the gap.The other way is to take the whole tension unit off & bend the bottom & re-install,you might have to do it a couple of times to get it set so it opens enough.

Switch the direction your motor runs.

The part called the hook saddle is the part the hook fastens to,the large hook is taller than the small hook so the saddle is made shorter @ the top for the large bobbin hook.So you have to get one from a large bobbin machine or try to buy one from Pfaff.

Like the other machines that sew heavy & use thick thread this one handles from #138-346 easy,you will need to make some tension adjustments to make # 69 & 92 work.

You can do 1 of 2 things,either get a new needlebar for the new needle holder you have or get a new needle holder for a Singer 112w140.

Did you oil the shafts that go up & down? Like the needlebar,& both of the foot bars?And everything else in there there's around 12 or so places to oil.

Normally this would squeak because it needs oil,make sure to oil the sides of it along with putting some in the middle hole & see if that helps,along with the rest of the oiling points.

Great machines!Have Fun!

It probably needs a good oiling ,but these Industrial machine with a walking foot will never turn as freely as your Pfaff,the walking feet mechanism that push the feet up & down make it feel like it's binding when it is a normal feel.

When you thread the bobbincase put your right thumb nail on the tri-angle part of the hook & pull the bobbin thread in with your lefthand real low to the machine.Once the tension is set you can or should pretty much leave it alone.IF you really wanted to change to the Pfaff style bobbincase there is a way & a new hook with that style of bobbincase costs $250.00.

Here's one for the 7 class which needed a the double pedals to power through the thicker material it can sew.The treadle wheel on the 45K is just heavier than your 29.

Yes,the 135x16 is the leather point which comes in many different syles of points like Diamond,S,Tri,LR to name a few common ones ,many people like the look of an S point on leather if you want straight-line looking stitches,if you want a zig-zag look get the LR's.

It looks pretty good but I would tighten the top tension just alittle.And be sure to holdon the needle thread when you start sewing.

This should help. 441 Engineers manual.pdf

Grease dries up overtime & there's rollers in the cams which the grease can pile up on & stop a roller from turning & will eventually wear a flat spot into it..Only grease gears. Also only oil can get into the inside of a roller.

It's a generic one made in China,lookup model Brother# 797 or Artisan 318 the parts are the same.

I would recommend only using sewing machine oil on the top part of it as all motor oils have additives in them that will stain your leather if it splatters on it.Standard sewing machine oil is a clear mineral oil w/o any additives & doesn't stain.You could lube the rollers & cams underneath with motor oil or a mixture it won't hurt, BUT don't ever use grease anywhere in this machine.