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CowboyBob

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Everything posted by CowboyBob

  1. College Sewing in the UK should have a complete tension for you.
  2. Your Welcome. It might help you sometimes if you fill out some of your profile so people know where you live.They can recommend a supplier to order from.
  3. This tension post is an old style someone put in it,it's hardened & will never drill,a new complete tension unit is around $8.00 + postage.
  4. On some older Singers there's a tension release on the side,not in the middle,if you look in the hole after you take the tension out can you see the release lever back there? part # 20314 is the old style.
  5. Do you know what might be the reason to instead opt for 135x17 needles? Are they more common/cheaper than 134-35? Yes,the 135x17 are easier to get .Another reason to go to a longer needle is with the slight rise of the needlebar will allow you to sew thicker before the needlebar hits the foot.
  6. Yes,you can turn the bar & the 144W feet will fit.
  7. Like others have said make sure there's no play in any of the parts.Then we used to drill a hole just beyond the bottom of the slot & take a file or grinder & open it up so you have a longer slot & this will make the stitch length longer.
  8. Just to clarify the 135x17 measures 38.9 & the 134-35 is 38.1 that is 0.8 mm approx 1/32" difference.If the machine is already tested for the 134-35 then the 135x17 will also work.We sell alot of the 134-35 to people with the 135x17 or 16 & always mention if they have a problem with skipping stitches they might need to lower the needlebar a small amount.
  9. Tilt the machine back,look @ the clutch & then turn the machine until you see the hole in the outer part & make sure you can see the BB in there B4 doing anything else.I'm sure it's in there BUT we need to know for sure.
  10. Yes,the machine will turn & so will the hook unlike the 111w type machines,but when the clutch kicks out it will appear to be out of time like your machine is.
  11. These hardly ever go out of time,you should double check the safety clutch & make sure you can see the BB in the hole of the clutch.
  12. Yes,the handwheel turns toward you,the feed cam must need to be adjusted since the feed dogs are feeding backwards.
  13. I never recommend a 1181 for leather as the upper outside foot has teeth (which can ground off) BUT it also has feed dogs that need to grip the leather to pull it through.The 1541S has smooth bottom feet on it & the feed dog has teeth BUT they can be ground off since it's a needle-feed & it won't affect the stitch length like it would if you ground them on the 1181.
  14. Constabulary is right,it is best NOT to take it apart,just clean it the best you can ,that dirt that's left won't hurt anything.The problem is many times when people take these apart,they end up either loosing or breaking parts & then not getting them back together properly.
  15. Nice looking machine you have there. The problem with these older models w/o the steel ends is the casting where the rack slides against can get a groove worn in it that requires brass to be welded to the backside of it as a shim to get the gear closer to the pinions.I'm certain this is why they re-engineered & adapted the replaceable ends on all of the newer models.We have also seen where the hole where the shuttle rides in enlarges to a point it is so loose that it won't sew correctly either.We use .950 as the limit & anything beyond that we strip them for parts.
  16. That link looks like the same one as all the other 45K's so your in luck there BUT you'll have to take the top shaft to be able to access that large screw on the bottom of the pic.So if I were you I'd dunk this in some kerosene or diesel fuel for a couple of weeks & it will help it came apart easier.
  17. That a bit on the high side for a 96,if you wait I'm sure you could find a Singer 111w with walking feet for the same price.
  18. Here's the manual showing all the parts & part # this should help you. 206RB-5(2).pdf
  19. Yes,as long as you get the short arm stand it'll bolt right up,other wise you'll have to re-drill 2-holes for the long stand.
  20. I'll have to double check tomorrow,I'm almost certain we have a few in stock.
  21. They made a 12" model for boots,a 10" is close & might work in a pinch.You probably could sell the others since this one will do what they can + more.
  22. Looks like a good start.It probably wouldn't hurt to keep all 3 of those K's you never know what can break.What is the # on the Auto-soler with the built-in shelf?
  23. That set screw #43 is what locks the offset adjustable pin that is loosening that you are having a problem with.
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