CowboyBob

You can make shims easily,they do not need to be a full circle.Just get a piece of business card,cut into narrow strips,1/4" long & use some grease or vasoline to hold them on the backside 4 short strips would work.BUT since the OP's shuttle is hitting the hook he should take it apart & clean behind the shim as there might be some thread behind it pushing it out.

Try the S point needle which is only available in system 134-35 which is 1 mm shorter & may require lowering the needlebar slightly.

It looks like the kit only fits an Adler or Pfaff,the flexible nozzle should work,we made them out of 1/4" copper tubing & fastened them to the end plate.

Yrs ago we sold some Juki 563's to a place that sewed binding on them & they wanted to go fast,the thread was burning when they stopped so we rigged up an airline that aimed @ the lower part of the needle when it was all the way up & it worked.But the air was blowing all the time.

I've never seen or heard of a model 16,but have seen alot of 17's & know it's not a 17,this has gears on the bobbin winder & like you said the tension is different than a 17.This one has what looks to be a thread lube on the front too that the 17's don't have.

Sight unseen it will be hard for me to pinpoint the problem so I can only let you know what to check.First tilt it back & push the handle down & make sure no screws are loose collars connected to the lever otherwise it won't be making it's full travel down.someone may have been adjusting the screws marked by the screwdriver,make sure the upper one is all the way out,they may have loosen the clamp on this & turned the whole piece. & the same thing goes for the other clamp with a big screw an inch to the left of the last adjustment. HTH

Here you go. 45Kmanual.pdf 45K21.pdf

Good machines,we sold alot of them back in the day.

Years ago all Consews were made by Seiko,if he looks underneath he'll find Seiko cast in the metal.

"I can get it back in, but it never seems to be in the right orientation in regards to when the needle comes down. " The finger holds it from spinning & once you put it on & it's in between the grooves of part # 10 it shouldn't spin.Once in a while the finger can get bent so it isn't seated far enough to hold it properly it could spin out while sewing,but it needs to have enough clearance so the thread can pass though it. ,You also should oil the hook,just a drop everytime you change the bobbin or start sewing after it's been setting(just a drop will do)

Singer needle feed machines work best with the proper feet,the walking foot feet that mount the other way were designed for walking feet! They also require an inside foot(which you cannot mount on a needle feed machine),can this be done yes,BUT usually the feet won't work like they are supposed to & they do make feet for needlefeed machines that will feet the way Singer designed them. singer 111wneedlefeed ft.pdf singer111wneedlefeedfet.pdf

Sometimes oiling the ridge of part#10 helps it to slide in easier.Part #10 has a little notch in it that is hold in position by a little finger to keep it from turning,it is at the top.If you have the largest part hook @ the top it should just slide in place.Next time it jams put some oil in the hook (the outer ridge of part #10)& take the belt off,turn the handwheel towards you & then push it backwards as hard as you can,you might have to do this a couple of times but it almost always will unjam it & is easier than taking things apart & taking a risk of loosing screws.IDK if you know but holding the needle thread when you start sewing will prevent this jamming problem.

They make a nice looking stitch like all needle & awl machines do BUT you'll have problems trying to find parts if it needs any.I'd say the price is alittle high since it needs work.It only has a 4" workspace to the right of the needle.

A 16x2 should work.

Hello Dominic ,you spoke with Bob Kovar,Thanks for your order & we'll let you know when they pick it up.

$20 is a good deal,yes there are quite a few different factories these are made & the quality can very,some even come from the factory Sailrite gets them from but it's hit or miss to figure out which brand is best.One thing about Sailrite is they are also a "clone" of the old Thompson machines from the 1970's & they do buy them from a factory that makes a better quality.

Showed up fpr me,it's a HD fur machine.

Oh,ok I understand what you mean.Have you checked the set screws for the postioner on the handwheel?

This is normal,there is a finger that sets in the groove of what we call the hook basket,it has to have some play to allow the thread to travel through.Put the bobbin in,thread the needle & turn the machine slowly & watch what happens it will help you to understand why it needs the play.The biggest problem with these machines is the lack of oiling the ridge on the hook basket causing it to bind up.

He has some great prices on quality parts.

If it sews good I would say yes.If you wait I'm sure you might get one cheaper but you never how long you might have to wait.

I've never seen one that wasn't adjustable.Look in this attached file.It's the same is Singer 111w,211w,Consew 225,226,255,Juki 562,563. 441 top feed cam.pdf

I've found it's not good to buy a cheap hook,you get what you pay for,stick with a Hirose or Cerlani they should be close to $150.00,there are also some Juki 563 saddles on ebay that you should buy & then you won't have to machine yours.

If you loosen screw #4 you should be able to push the bushing marked #3 to the right.

I've wondered why myself & was always told they were made for sewing the vamps on a shoe.But it would be hard for a right-handed person to sew with so maybe they were specially made for left-handed people to sew in the shoe factory?