CowboyBob

Here's a spec sheet on the 226. Consew 226R spec sheet.pdf

The 144 was in the ballpark but that 29 sure was crazy high$$,Thanks for posting the results.

Lift the pressure foot up & push the needlebar front to back,is there much play?

The 15x1 home machine needle with the flat spot will put the needle closer to the hook & might even hit causing damage to the point.

We recently had one of this in here that didn't have a flat spot on the shaft for the feed cam & when we adjusted the stitch length it would do what yours is doing.It's not too hard of a fix,mark the shaft were the screw is when it's sewing like it should then loosen the 2-screws in the cam & slide the cam to the right & grind a v-shaped slot into the shaft.Move it back & tighten the screws.

It's a 9/32x20 TPI we have them for $2.50 ea.

Good point BUT the key is prevention! I'm not saying this is the case here. But, I always stress to people when they buy one from us is to make sure to hold onto the needle thread when you start sewing. IDK how many jams it can take to break, it causes a lot of stress on the driver. So if your machine ever jams DO NOT try to use the motor to power through it, they are strong enough esp with the reducer to make this happen. Shut the motor off & turn the wheel backwards. If you can't turn the machine take the hook & race out to unclog it.

Same as the one above. rex_Chandler.pdf

They do have a good video & it really isn't that hard of a job to do,you change it & then re-time it,1/2 hr time @ the most.

Good points,but if he uses a rachet w/a extension he better hold it alittle sideways(instead of going straight in) so it doesn't strip it out as these are real tight.

Yes

Here's one I made for all 3 brands of needle & awls machines. Landis_Champion__Amer_Straight_needle_chart.pdf

Like so many older Singers they are well-built but certain models have specialized parts that will be almost impossible to find like the feed dog & needle plate for this one,you could get the hole welded & redrill it.Or take it to a machine shop & have a new one made.The feed dog in the picture looks like it's still in good shape though.

That bracket is a belt guard probably mounts on the end of machine,you don't need it.We have the needle plate in stock if you need one.

We are a Pfaff dealer & have this part in stock,give us a call & we can ship it out today.

Go up 7 posts to Nov 27,2017 there's a manual you can download.

The upper feed helps keep the lightweight shade & curtain material flat so it doesn't pucker as it's sewn,I doubt if it will help in sewing leather as the foot area is rather wide & you'll always be stuck with it unless you take it off & install a standard foot which is available in teflon for sewing leather.So if it's priced cheap enough it might be worth buying & convert to std foot.The 107's are used for sewing up the back of shoes or making leather jackets & vests.

Re-assembly will be easier if you plug the screw holes with something to prevent the paint from going into them.We've use Q-tips,cotton , even pieces of paper & there are a few area that need to be masked off too.We also have a thick piece of paper business card thickness we used for covering the slide plate area.This hammertone will come out nice but be sure to wash the machine off a couple of x with alcohol to remove oil,if not you'll end up with a fisheyes.Also when painting wait maybe 10 min between each coat just so it's drying but still tacky & respray(hold can away from machine & mist it on) it will bring out the hammertone & don't forget to shake the can alot the oil in the can settles quickly.After your done & if your happy with it it needs some heat to bake the paint,we usually like to paint in the summer & let them set outside for the day in the sun,in the winter we'd put a heat lamp on them & tinfoil over the top to hold the heat in.This will harden the paint & prevent scratches when you put it together.

We are also a Consew dealer & have this needlebar in stock in either generic or OEM.We sell more generics than OEM the only difference is the needle set screw are different tpi than OEM there is a $14.00 difference in price.

@Reeniebeany here's one for you. 31k.pdf

Glenn,your close,the upper part looks like an Adler BUT the lower is like a 441,Weaver tried them years ago & ended up sending them back to Consew they had some problems with them IDK if has been resolved it yet or not.

Did you do this with the pressure bar in it?Once in a while I've seen where you have to polish one side (of the block that sets in the slot) like the slot wasn't milled correctly.

I can see you oiled the pressure bar,how about the part you circled in red & at the top of the bar?When it sticks before you do anything try to tighten or loosen the foot pressure adjuster once in a while they aren't drilled straight & you might find a spot where it'll work w/o jamming.

Wouldn't hurt to give the pressurebar shaft alittle oil.