CowboyBob

Same as the one above. rex_Chandler.pdf

They do have a good video & it really isn't that hard of a job to do,you change it & then re-time it,1/2 hr time @ the most.

Good points,but if he uses a rachet w/a extension he better hold it alittle sideways(instead of going straight in) so it doesn't strip it out as these are real tight.

Yes

Here's one I made for all 3 brands of needle & awls machines. Landis_Champion__Amer_Straight_needle_chart.pdf

Like so many older Singers they are well-built but certain models have specialized parts that will be almost impossible to find like the feed dog & needle plate for this one,you could get the hole welded & redrill it.Or take it to a machine shop & have a new one made.The feed dog in the picture looks like it's still in good shape though.

That bracket is a belt guard probably mounts on the end of machine,you don't need it.We have the needle plate in stock if you need one.

We are a Pfaff dealer & have this part in stock,give us a call & we can ship it out today.

Go up 7 posts to Nov 27,2017 there's a manual you can download.

The upper feed helps keep the lightweight shade & curtain material flat so it doesn't pucker as it's sewn,I doubt if it will help in sewing leather as the foot area is rather wide & you'll always be stuck with it unless you take it off & install a standard foot which is available in teflon for sewing leather.So if it's priced cheap enough it might be worth buying & convert to std foot.The 107's are used for sewing up the back of shoes or making leather jackets & vests.

Re-assembly will be easier if you plug the screw holes with something to prevent the paint from going into them.We've use Q-tips,cotton , even pieces of paper & there are a few area that need to be masked off too.We also have a thick piece of paper business card thickness we used for covering the slide plate area.This hammertone will come out nice but be sure to wash the machine off a couple of x with alcohol to remove oil,if not you'll end up with a fisheyes.Also when painting wait maybe 10 min between each coat just so it's drying but still tacky & respray(hold can away from machine & mist it on) it will bring out the hammertone & don't forget to shake the can alot the oil in the can settles quickly.After your done & if your happy with it it needs some heat to bake the paint,we usually like to paint in the summer & let them set outside for the day in the sun,in the winter we'd put a heat lamp on them & tinfoil over the top to hold the heat in.This will harden the paint & prevent scratches when you put it together.

We are also a Consew dealer & have this needlebar in stock in either generic or OEM.We sell more generics than OEM the only difference is the needle set screw are different tpi than OEM there is a $14.00 difference in price.

@Reeniebeany here's one for you. 31k.pdf

Glenn,your close,the upper part looks like an Adler BUT the lower is like a 441,Weaver tried them years ago & ended up sending them back to Consew they had some problems with them IDK if has been resolved it yet or not.

Did you do this with the pressure bar in it?Once in a while I've seen where you have to polish one side (of the block that sets in the slot) like the slot wasn't milled correctly.

I can see you oiled the pressure bar,how about the part you circled in red & at the top of the bar?When it sticks before you do anything try to tighten or loosen the foot pressure adjuster once in a while they aren't drilled straight & you might find a spot where it'll work w/o jamming.

Wouldn't hurt to give the pressurebar shaft alittle oil.

Another cause can be tightening the ring on the pressure foot adjuster,it's best tio leave it loose it can't back itself out.I think once in a while the paint is high in one spot when you tighten the ring & will cause it to bind.

Gateway Shoe in St.Louis,MO can help you.

It could be binding on the bracket behind the roller.loosen both screws alittle & lift the foot up & see if it helps,the roller just need to be barely touching it.

So is it sewing correctly now?

All the 211 & 212 I've ever seen have the stop on the tension unit.It can be added but you'll need a longer screw which is still available.

I know you just need a tension post ,this tension your showing is for a 111w & it doesn't have the check spring stop on it,you'll need to use the screw that holds the lower disc on so you can put this stop on the new one,it needs a longer screw & looking at the screw on this one on ebay I doubt they will interchange(I've never seen a phillips screw on the disc).So the best thing to do is look for part #244727 which is for the 211 if you can't find them on ebay we have them,but ours aren't made in China & will cost alittle more.

You need to turn the cam on the topshaft that drive the rods you have circled in red & blue,loosen the 2-set screws & turn alittle @ a time if it gets worse you need to turn the cam the other way.