CowboyBob

You could use it in auto uph w/a 3/8" guage for some newer car seats that don't have welt cord & arm rests if you have a 3/8" guage between the needles.

Did you put some oil in the 2 holes to the right of the shuttle underneath the needle plate? And on the shuttle driver shaft? And how much play clockwise & counter-clockwise is there in the shuttle driver?

It's a taper pin BUT alot of these & 31-15's don't have them & as long as the screws are tight it won't slip.

The 111w155 will sew up to 20 oz.or 5/16" or 8mm thickness.With the walking foot,needle feed system it has it's great for even real thin wallets & etc.

@Frodothe pins usually come out towards the front,so tap on the backside.Try holding a piece of metal on the frontside while tapping on the pin from the back,if you still can't get it out.You can take the 4-screws out of the head along with the needlebar holder & lower it(the head) down off the needlebar take the spring off the top of the takeup lever then knock the pin out of the takeup lever& remove it & you can take the needlebar off & put it on top of a vice or a small socket & tap the pin out.

Looks to me like you need to loosen the 2-screws that hold the stitch length cam to the shaft & only turn them 1/4 turn(because one of them goes into a slot on the shaft) & then tap on it to slide it to the left so it lines up.

Here's a parts & operators manual for the Juki 563 & all the parts should interchange. Juki_LU_562_563_Manual.pdf Juki_LU-562,_-563-1.pdf

We've found some of the belts off ebay & other suppliers might be tight & only use a name brand which cost alittle more but well worth it to have a smooth running machine that spins freely.

Before you start re-timing make sure to check that the timing belt is on correctly.You do this by turning the machine until the takeup is all the way up,then tilt the machine back & look @ the collar on the middle shaft,it has an arrow on it that should line up with the arrow on the thin piece of metal just to the right of it.Here's a manual you can read about it here. 111W152_W153_W154_W155+INSTRUCTIONS.pdf

Sounds like a classic thread jam.If your on Facebook they have a group called Tips & Trick for the Cobra machine & you can search the old files or post the question & they will walk you through timing & etc.

Just thought I'd jump in here & let you know we have these screws in stock.

Doesn't seem to matter who use us for shipping once in a while you'll have a problem.We just had the same issue with USPS tracking showed it was delivered & customer said they never got it.We re-shipped & filed a claim with them.We rarely have a problem with UPS compared to USPS. I'm sure Tandy will resend your order & file a claim.Good Luck.

Wrong needle,needle threaded wrong, needle in wrong or you need to re-time the shuttle.

Could be a couple of things,#1)too loose needle tension or threaded incorrectly,#2)Feed dog timing,when the feed dog comes up,goes back & starts to go down this is when the needle should go into the material.Is your machine doing that?#3)Or it could be that the race(the part the shuttle rides in) has too much slop & needs to be replaced.

The bobbin thread has nothing to do with the stitch length.Are you sure you have the correct needle in it?It should be approx 1&3/4" long.

Hello Jeff, Most likely you are not holding the workpiece level and steady which deflects the needle. That makes it harder to pull the needle up causing the flagging. A small amount of deflection can put the thread in the path of the hook causing fraying and breaking.

207 is a large stiff thread ,you need alot of tension the the needle & very little on the bobbin to get it to pull up,alot of people have better luck using 207 on top & 138 in the bobbin,the 138 can pull up in the stitch easier since it's smaller.

We stock the 190 in a D point in sizes #22 & 23,I'll check into the S point but doubt if they are available.

Check with Frontier Dist in Dallas,TX they will make them per your drawings or measurements @ 800-441-0925

I sure WISHED we could but there's no way to know what belt to send,they need to install the reducer,measure the length needed & buy them locally @ an auto parts or lawnmower shop.

The parts are crazy high $$ the above parts are $728.00

From what I have found is the longer "horn" is for thinner thread when sewing lightweight materials,size # 69 & larger works better without it.If you look & Juki 563,Singer 111w hooks some have a finger on the gib that releases the thread later & the "heavy duty" hook does not & it will release the thread sooner which helps to pull up the needle thread for a better looking tension.

On the front there's 3 oil holes marked red,the 2nd one down on the rightside has a tube with an oil wick in it that wraps around the top of a bushing,somehow it got unwrapped & fell down.Try to follow it to the other end & you'll see where it comes out of the tube.

Our chart also shows you what size needle to use for the thread size.https://tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html

Should sew a good 20oz,5/16" or 8mm,using up to size 138 thread.