CowboyBob

I think he's talking about the shuttle carrier shaft & the gears.There's a busing in the carriwer shat but it's no longer available.I've seen machines so wornout that they bind because the backside of the rack eats into the casting & makes the gears real loose.There's nothing you can do except braze the backside of the rack gears to get them closer & then grind off for a tight fit.

That screw should tighten up,if not someone must of ran it loose yrs ago & it ruined the threads.Also NEVER use grease esp on a roller,it will build up in front of the roller & cause it to stop turning when the grease dries up,it won't lube the inside of the bearing of the roller either.Sewing machine oil is best,motor oil attracts lint.

Your in luck,I found a supplier that has them in stock,give me a call to order.

I know this won't help this machine BUT if you or anyone else ready this ever has a machine shipped it's always best to take the handwheel off when shipping,because a hit on the box from any angle can bend the shaft & or break the handle wheel.

You could use it in auto uph w/a 3/8" guage for some newer car seats that don't have welt cord & arm rests if you have a 3/8" guage between the needles.

Did you put some oil in the 2 holes to the right of the shuttle underneath the needle plate? And on the shuttle driver shaft? And how much play clockwise & counter-clockwise is there in the shuttle driver?

It's a taper pin BUT alot of these & 31-15's don't have them & as long as the screws are tight it won't slip.

The 111w155 will sew up to 20 oz.or 5/16" or 8mm thickness.With the walking foot,needle feed system it has it's great for even real thin wallets & etc.

@Frodothe pins usually come out towards the front,so tap on the backside.Try holding a piece of metal on the frontside while tapping on the pin from the back,if you still can't get it out.You can take the 4-screws out of the head along with the needlebar holder & lower it(the head) down off the needlebar take the spring off the top of the takeup lever then knock the pin out of the takeup lever& remove it & you can take the needlebar off & put it on top of a vice or a small socket & tap the pin out.

Looks to me like you need to loosen the 2-screws that hold the stitch length cam to the shaft & only turn them 1/4 turn(because one of them goes into a slot on the shaft) & then tap on it to slide it to the left so it lines up.

Here's a parts & operators manual for the Juki 563 & all the parts should interchange. Juki_LU_562_563_Manual.pdf Juki_LU-562,_-563-1.pdf

We've found some of the belts off ebay & other suppliers might be tight & only use a name brand which cost alittle more but well worth it to have a smooth running machine that spins freely.

Before you start re-timing make sure to check that the timing belt is on correctly.You do this by turning the machine until the takeup is all the way up,then tilt the machine back & look @ the collar on the middle shaft,it has an arrow on it that should line up with the arrow on the thin piece of metal just to the right of it.Here's a manual you can read about it here. 111W152_W153_W154_W155+INSTRUCTIONS.pdf

Sounds like a classic thread jam.If your on Facebook they have a group called Tips & Trick for the Cobra machine & you can search the old files or post the question & they will walk you through timing & etc.

Just thought I'd jump in here & let you know we have these screws in stock.

Doesn't seem to matter who use us for shipping once in a while you'll have a problem.We just had the same issue with USPS tracking showed it was delivered & customer said they never got it.We re-shipped & filed a claim with them.We rarely have a problem with UPS compared to USPS. I'm sure Tandy will resend your order & file a claim.Good Luck.

Wrong needle,needle threaded wrong, needle in wrong or you need to re-time the shuttle.

Could be a couple of things,#1)too loose needle tension or threaded incorrectly,#2)Feed dog timing,when the feed dog comes up,goes back & starts to go down this is when the needle should go into the material.Is your machine doing that?#3)Or it could be that the race(the part the shuttle rides in) has too much slop & needs to be replaced.

The bobbin thread has nothing to do with the stitch length.Are you sure you have the correct needle in it?It should be approx 1&3/4" long.

Hello Jeff, Most likely you are not holding the workpiece level and steady which deflects the needle. That makes it harder to pull the needle up causing the flagging. A small amount of deflection can put the thread in the path of the hook causing fraying and breaking.

207 is a large stiff thread ,you need alot of tension the the needle & very little on the bobbin to get it to pull up,alot of people have better luck using 207 on top & 138 in the bobbin,the 138 can pull up in the stitch easier since it's smaller.

We stock the 190 in a D point in sizes #22 & 23,I'll check into the S point but doubt if they are available.

Check with Frontier Dist in Dallas,TX they will make them per your drawings or measurements @ 800-441-0925

I sure WISHED we could but there's no way to know what belt to send,they need to install the reducer,measure the length needed & buy them locally @ an auto parts or lawnmower shop.