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CowboyBob

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Everything posted by CowboyBob

  1. Years ago all Consews were made by Seiko,if he looks underneath he'll find Seiko cast in the metal.
  2. "I can get it back in, but it never seems to be in the right orientation in regards to when the needle comes down. " The finger holds it from spinning & once you put it on & it's in between the grooves of part # 10 it shouldn't spin.Once in a while the finger can get bent so it isn't seated far enough to hold it properly it could spin out while sewing,but it needs to have enough clearance so the thread can pass though it. ,You also should oil the hook,just a drop everytime you change the bobbin or start sewing after it's been setting(just a drop will do)
  3. Singer needle feed machines work best with the proper feet,the walking foot feet that mount the other way were designed for walking feet! They also require an inside foot(which you cannot mount on a needle feed machine),can this be done yes,BUT usually the feet won't work like they are supposed to & they do make feet for needlefeed machines that will feet the way Singer designed them. singer 111wneedlefeed ft.pdf singer111wneedlefeedfet.pdf
  4. Sometimes oiling the ridge of part#10 helps it to slide in easier.Part #10 has a little notch in it that is hold in position by a little finger to keep it from turning,it is at the top.If you have the largest part hook @ the top it should just slide in place.Next time it jams put some oil in the hook (the outer ridge of part #10)& take the belt off,turn the handwheel towards you & then push it backwards as hard as you can,you might have to do this a couple of times but it almost always will unjam it & is easier than taking things apart & taking a risk of loosing screws.IDK if you know but holding the needle thread when you start sewing will prevent this jamming problem.
  5. They make a nice looking stitch like all needle & awl machines do BUT you'll have problems trying to find parts if it needs any.I'd say the price is alittle high since it needs work.It only has a 4" workspace to the right of the needle.
  6. A 16x2 should work.
  7. Hello Dominic ,you spoke with Bob Kovar,Thanks for your order & we'll let you know when they pick it up.
  8. $20 is a good deal,yes there are quite a few different factories these are made & the quality can very,some even come from the factory Sailrite gets them from but it's hit or miss to figure out which brand is best.One thing about Sailrite is they are also a "clone" of the old Thompson machines from the 1970's & they do buy them from a factory that makes a better quality.
  9. Showed up fpr me,it's a HD fur machine.
  10. Oh,ok I understand what you mean.Have you checked the set screws for the postioner on the handwheel?
  11. This is normal,there is a finger that sets in the groove of what we call the hook basket,it has to have some play to allow the thread to travel through.Put the bobbin in,thread the needle & turn the machine slowly & watch what happens it will help you to understand why it needs the play.The biggest problem with these machines is the lack of oiling the ridge on the hook basket causing it to bind up.
  12. He has some great prices on quality parts.
  13. If it sews good I would say yes.If you wait I'm sure you might get one cheaper but you never how long you might have to wait.
  14. I've never seen one that wasn't adjustable.Look in this attached file.It's the same is Singer 111w,211w,Consew 225,226,255,Juki 562,563. 441 top feed cam.pdf
  15. I've found it's not good to buy a cheap hook,you get what you pay for,stick with a Hirose or Cerlani they should be close to $150.00,there are also some Juki 563 saddles on ebay that you should buy & then you won't have to machine yours.
  16. If you loosen screw #4 you should be able to push the bushing marked #3 to the right.
  17. I've wondered why myself & was always told they were made for sewing the vamps on a shoe.But it would be hard for a right-handed person to sew with so maybe they were specially made for left-handed people to sew in the shoe factory?
  18. David,Looks like it's stitching pretty good.I wished I kept ser# of the Landis 3's I've sold over the yrs, because I'm almost certain I painted & sold this one many years ago,we used to paint alot of them this color & also used angle iron to hold them to the table.And we had a fellow come in one time that looked @ some machines in the warehouse house while any guy was there alone & alot of the plates & shuttles came up missing after he left, so we had them made up in bronze like this one has.
  19. I can't tell you what was in someones head when they did this because I don't know of any reason other than maybe the last belt fit loose so they "tried" to make it tighter.I would take a Dremel & grind off the high points of punch mark & called it fixed.
  20. I wish I knew more about there but here's a pic of one we have ser#9446 & it has a spring for tension on the shuttle.
  21. Yes,some of the older machines like the 225 & 226 do not have the holes drilled & tapped for this to mount.
  22. I was working on a machine last Sat. that needed one & found out we are out of them,I will be ordering more soon.It is screw #200082.Here's a parts list for the machine herehttps://www.supsew.com/download/Singer/Singer 111W155.pdf
  23. The stitching looks pretty good.Here's a pic of the collar on the inside of the handwheel it's just alittle under 3/8" & also a pic of the standard old style of hinges for an industrial machine,while the ones you have will work they are for a home machine & the pivot pin is much thinner. 111w flywheel.html
  24. It's odd you have that much shaft sticking out,it's usually flush.There is a collar cast into the other side of the pulley is it on there?Yes the 2-screws are all that holds it to the shaft.
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