CowboyBob

We are also a Consew dealer & have this needlebar in stock in either generic or OEM.We sell more generics than OEM the only difference is the needle set screw are different tpi than OEM there is a $14.00 difference in price.

@Reeniebeany here's one for you. 31k.pdf

Glenn,your close,the upper part looks like an Adler BUT the lower is like a 441,Weaver tried them years ago & ended up sending them back to Consew they had some problems with them IDK if has been resolved it yet or not.

Did you do this with the pressure bar in it?Once in a while I've seen where you have to polish one side (of the block that sets in the slot) like the slot wasn't milled correctly.

I can see you oiled the pressure bar,how about the part you circled in red & at the top of the bar?When it sticks before you do anything try to tighten or loosen the foot pressure adjuster once in a while they aren't drilled straight & you might find a spot where it'll work w/o jamming.

Wouldn't hurt to give the pressurebar shaft alittle oil.

Another cause can be tightening the ring on the pressure foot adjuster,it's best tio leave it loose it can't back itself out.I think once in a while the paint is high in one spot when you tighten the ring & will cause it to bind.

Gateway Shoe in St.Louis,MO can help you.

It could be binding on the bracket behind the roller.loosen both screws alittle & lift the foot up & see if it helps,the roller just need to be barely touching it.

So is it sewing correctly now?

All the 211 & 212 I've ever seen have the stop on the tension unit.It can be added but you'll need a longer screw which is still available.

I know you just need a tension post ,this tension your showing is for a 111w & it doesn't have the check spring stop on it,you'll need to use the screw that holds the lower disc on so you can put this stop on the new one,it needs a longer screw & looking at the screw on this one on ebay I doubt they will interchange(I've never seen a phillips screw on the disc).So the best thing to do is look for part #244727 which is for the 211 if you can't find them on ebay we have them,but ours aren't made in China & will cost alittle more.

You need to turn the cam on the topshaft that drive the rods you have circled in red & blue,loosen the 2-set screws & turn alittle @ a time if it gets worse you need to turn the cam the other way.

As machines wear they stitch length will get shorter,you can check to see if there is any play front to back by pushing on the needlebar with the foot up.You can take the chrome piece off that's held on by 2 screws (that the stitch length stops against) and file the top & bottom of the slot to give it more travel which will make the stitch longer.

Here's a better parts listhttps://www.supsew.com/download/Mitsubishi/Mitsubishi LT2-2230.pdf with the # for the BIT model the feed dog is #MN52K1104,plate MN52K1101,foot MN26K1105,ndl clamp MN57K1102 ,if I remember correctly no other brand will interchange.We can order them if you want.

Yes,the 67 is a small bobbin but any of these the 67,167,267 -373 are walking foot & needlefeed.

It means it has the walking foot & needlefeed,as they also make machine this in a needlefeed only model.

If you don't want to take a chance to cut the weave of the canvas a round point would work best.

Hey Jeff,That looks GREAT!!

Yes,someone else must of painted it then ,I never painted over any labels on any machine I painted!

Cowboy sewing machines can come with different motors on them depending where you buy them,so if this manual isn't correct for you post a pic & make & model # of your motor. CSM1000.pdf

Did you know that back in the day these needle guides were sold in different size holes in them to match the needle size?

The Rex machines took the 135x17 needles which is what we always adjusted the Singer 16's to use slightly shorter BUT at least you can get them in any size you want for sewing leather or cloth.

You can make shims easily,they do not need to be a full circle.Just get a piece of business card,cut into narrow strips,1/4" long & use some grease or vasoline to hold them on the backside 4 short strips would work.BUT since the OP's shuttle is hitting the hook he should take it apart & clean behind the shim as there might be some thread behind it pushing it out.

Try the S point needle which is only available in system 134-35 which is 1 mm shorter & may require lowering the needlebar slightly.