CowboyBob

The 3 cord too large & stiff to pull up,polyester is alittle softer & might pull up better or try the next size smaller thread in the bobbin FF or 138 will make a better stitch with 3 cord in the needle,if your sewing leather a leather point might help too.

They used a zig-zag machine with a double needle something like a Singer 107w it has a single bobbin that connects two double needle stitches together as it sews.

Too early for you?Get somemore coffee!

At the top of the page -Shop closed for good as of 12/20/2022. Thank you and farewell.

We just got some 750 watt Consew motors in & it sells for $189.00 or $219.00 w/needle postioner.We also can install the 45mm pulley @ no charge, since they come with a 3" or 75mm so they will run slower.Prices include shpg in the lower 48 states.

I think your over thinking it.The length of the needle doesn't matter as long as it's not too long & will hit on the upstroke OR too short & hit the feet over a thick seam.I have changed alot of 111W154's over the years to the common 135x17,you instali the new needlebar,set the height so the hook comes in 1/8" above to eye & sew with it!

Same length & even if it was easy to adjust by adjusting height of the needlebar when you install it.The main reason to change is you will have no problems getting needles in any size & points you want real easy.

It's .007 or .187mm smaller than a 135x17

Yes,we have the needlebars in stock that will allow you to use the larger shank 135x17 needles.

I think he's talking about the shuttle carrier shaft & the gears.There's a busing in the carriwer shat but it's no longer available.I've seen machines so wornout that they bind because the backside of the rack eats into the casting & makes the gears real loose.There's nothing you can do except braze the backside of the rack gears to get them closer & then grind off for a tight fit.

That screw should tighten up,if not someone must of ran it loose yrs ago & it ruined the threads.Also NEVER use grease esp on a roller,it will build up in front of the roller & cause it to stop turning when the grease dries up,it won't lube the inside of the bearing of the roller either.Sewing machine oil is best,motor oil attracts lint.

Your in luck,I found a supplier that has them in stock,give me a call to order.

I know this won't help this machine BUT if you or anyone else ready this ever has a machine shipped it's always best to take the handwheel off when shipping,because a hit on the box from any angle can bend the shaft & or break the handle wheel.

You could use it in auto uph w/a 3/8" guage for some newer car seats that don't have welt cord & arm rests if you have a 3/8" guage between the needles.

Did you put some oil in the 2 holes to the right of the shuttle underneath the needle plate? And on the shuttle driver shaft? And how much play clockwise & counter-clockwise is there in the shuttle driver?

It's a taper pin BUT alot of these & 31-15's don't have them & as long as the screws are tight it won't slip.

The 111w155 will sew up to 20 oz.or 5/16" or 8mm thickness.With the walking foot,needle feed system it has it's great for even real thin wallets & etc.

@Frodothe pins usually come out towards the front,so tap on the backside.Try holding a piece of metal on the frontside while tapping on the pin from the back,if you still can't get it out.You can take the 4-screws out of the head along with the needlebar holder & lower it(the head) down off the needlebar take the spring off the top of the takeup lever then knock the pin out of the takeup lever& remove it & you can take the needlebar off & put it on top of a vice or a small socket & tap the pin out.

Looks to me like you need to loosen the 2-screws that hold the stitch length cam to the shaft & only turn them 1/4 turn(because one of them goes into a slot on the shaft) & then tap on it to slide it to the left so it lines up.

Here's a parts & operators manual for the Juki 563 & all the parts should interchange. Juki_LU_562_563_Manual.pdf Juki_LU-562,_-563-1.pdf

We've found some of the belts off ebay & other suppliers might be tight & only use a name brand which cost alittle more but well worth it to have a smooth running machine that spins freely.

Before you start re-timing make sure to check that the timing belt is on correctly.You do this by turning the machine until the takeup is all the way up,then tilt the machine back & look @ the collar on the middle shaft,it has an arrow on it that should line up with the arrow on the thin piece of metal just to the right of it.Here's a manual you can read about it here. 111W152_W153_W154_W155+INSTRUCTIONS.pdf

Sounds like a classic thread jam.If your on Facebook they have a group called Tips & Trick for the Cobra machine & you can search the old files or post the question & they will walk you through timing & etc.

Just thought I'd jump in here & let you know we have these screws in stock.