CowboyBob

I hate to tell you ,your either overlooking something OR it is out of time,because if it was in time it would be sewing.Once in a while the pin on the top cam(belt pulley breaks) the end of the screw on the pinion gear can also break.As you turn the machine the needle bar goes down ,starts to come up ,goes & then when it goes up the 2nd time is when the point of the shuttle should be above the eye of the needle.

It's the top part of the saddle that needs to be milled,not the hook bushing hole.The larger hooks are taller the the small ones ,the top hook bushing needs to be milled also,an easier way is to buy a Juki 563 saddle which sometimes popup on Ebay.You'll also need the Juki 563 Take Up lever.

From what I can see it looks like the correct one,which is short on this model of 45K

Are you sure there's enough slack in the foot lift chain(or wire) from the pedal to the lifter arm on the backside?

I'm glad to hear you got it fixed.Thanks for letting us know you found the problem,so many times people don't come back & post the fix.

The problem you will run into with longer stitches on this model is the continuously wheel-feed system on it,it doesn't stop like most machines so if you go to stitches that are too long it will bend & break needles.You didn't mention what you want to sew,but I see your into old cars so I suppose you might want to sew car seats?If so there are alot better machines suited for the task than this one.Singer 11W or 211W,Juki 562,563,Consew 206,225,226 to name a few.They all have walking feet & needle=feed that help pull the material through you can also get cording feet for them too.

Here's a file with a better explanation of how to adjust it by using the screws.Showing that you have to remove screw BB to turn CC to change the length & clockwise will make it longer ,after adjusting be sure to put screw CC back in there to lock it so it doesn't move.

Yes,the feet will fit ,feed dogs are different,the Consew P1206RB is the same machine just alot less $$ then Sailrite & all the parts interchange.

Those shafts are real hard to change,it would be easier to turn the adjuster screw all the way in & use the screws on page # 11 of this manual to change the stitch length.111w101 (1).pdf

The bobbin winder shaft looks like it's for a large bobbin,the 30-15 I have is a standard lift large bobbin.I've never seen a 30-17 b4.

AFAIK they are the same.

Nice work!

Here's a Landis #& 16,Champion & American Straight Needle needle & awl sizes needed for thread size. Landis_Champion__Amer_Straight_needle_chart.pdf

Before you take it out take a pic of how the handlifter is compared to the lifter bracket that it hits when you lift the arm & make it the same when you re-install it.You need to make sure there's not much play in the hand lifter before it contacts the lifter bracket,not enough play & the foot won't go all the way down too much & you won't get much lift under the foot.It's not hard to adjust as needed.

It's best to advertise it here :https://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/84-used/

Sounds like you not pulling the thread past the oval hole look @ this diagram. 111wthreadinggg.pdf

@Lakil7realized that the hand wheel has always been very stiff (almost impossible to turn by hand) when the power switch is turned off, but will only hand turn when the power is on. It that the way it supposed to be? This motor has a built-in brake that comes on automatically when take your foot off of the pedal,so when you want to handwheel the machine push the pedal it down maybe 1/8" to release it.

This Consew manual is pretty close to your Singer SK-2R.pdf (consew.com)

If your on Facebook there's a group there call"China Leather Shoe Patcher" & "Made with China Leather Shoe Patcher" they both have alot of tips & tricks about these machines on there.

I switched one yrs ago & it took a good week or so + alot of the parts didn't fit right & had to be modified so I didn't feel it was worth it considering the cost of the chinese copy model GA-5 ,we also found out not all of the castings even had all the holes drilled for the shafts.

Schmetz is a good brand that has alot of different leather points & the most common ones are the "S" point that makes your stitches look look straight & the "LR" that gives it a handstiched or zig-zag look.We stock both styles.

Loosen the set screw & spin it the cam 180' so the screw is on the opposite side from where,it should go in a groove on the shaft.

16x2

Yes,the bearing adapter needs to come out I can see one spot where you peened the edge over so you'll need to tap it back in & smooth it down & while your at it run some emery paper all the way around it to clean it up & maybe even take off alittle metal,then oil it & it should slip right out,if not tap it back in & sand some more until it does.

Good point about the motor that's probably what happened I didn't think about that,but this model doesn't have reverse