CowboyBob

It's best to advertise it here :https://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/84-used/

Sounds like you not pulling the thread past the oval hole look @ this diagram. 111wthreadinggg.pdf

@Lakil7realized that the hand wheel has always been very stiff (almost impossible to turn by hand) when the power switch is turned off, but will only hand turn when the power is on. It that the way it supposed to be? This motor has a built-in brake that comes on automatically when take your foot off of the pedal,so when you want to handwheel the machine push the pedal it down maybe 1/8" to release it.

This Consew manual is pretty close to your Singer SK-2R.pdf (consew.com)

If your on Facebook there's a group there call"China Leather Shoe Patcher" & "Made with China Leather Shoe Patcher" they both have alot of tips & tricks about these machines on there.

I switched one yrs ago & it took a good week or so + alot of the parts didn't fit right & had to be modified so I didn't feel it was worth it considering the cost of the chinese copy model GA-5 ,we also found out not all of the castings even had all the holes drilled for the shafts.

Schmetz is a good brand that has alot of different leather points & the most common ones are the "S" point that makes your stitches look look straight & the "LR" that gives it a handstiched or zig-zag look.We stock both styles.

Loosen the set screw & spin it the cam 180' so the screw is on the opposite side from where,it should go in a groove on the shaft.

16x2

Yes,the bearing adapter needs to come out I can see one spot where you peened the edge over so you'll need to tap it back in & smooth it down & while your at it run some emery paper all the way around it to clean it up & maybe even take off alittle metal,then oil it & it should slip right out,if not tap it back in & sand some more until it does.

Good point about the motor that's probably what happened I didn't think about that,but this model doesn't have reverse

One of 2 things you might have loosened the feed cam just to the left of the hook gear on the lower shaft or you took the timing belt off & didn't get it back on correctly

Are you threading the thread through 2-holes in the spool pin on top of the machine?If not as your sewing the thread can work it's way out of the next tension unit & if you don't have enough tension it will jam,also are you sure your wrapping the thread around the 2nd tension 1& 1/2x? Also don't forget to give the hook some oil everytime you change your bobbin,it just needs 1-drop in the groove that it rides in.

Parts are not available,the only way to get parts would be to find another machine to buy.

That should fix itself with a leather needle.

I'm no thread expert BUT,the wick thread is for canvas & should expand & fill the needle hole when it gets wet to prevent leaks.

Is the sunstop wick the larger one?

Great job,came out nice!The 111w156 is a great workhorse of a machine.

Here's some that are available. page0689.pdf

It's a lousy repaint by Goldsworthy of either a Consew 226R or Seiko,look how they painted over the rod on the backside,even the needlebar & pressure bar have paint on them!They used to put their name on brand new Pfaff's too,

Here's a pic of the adjusting screw,you want it pull pull just alittle counterclockwise,so the little tab of the hook basket under the needle plate pulls foward so the thread can go past it. Adler 67,167,267 bobbincase opener adjustment screw.jfif

Here's a manual. Singer_29K71_72_73_Manual_hi_res.pdf

I think you might be over oiling it,& just put a couple of drops a day in the reservoir instead of filling it as I almost certain it just wicking out when it's full until it's empty.

These shuttle hooks are still available check with College Sewing in the UK ,there's 4-bolts holding the head to the table.

It's a good machine BUT Pfaff quit stocking alot of parts for it,you'll have to hunt ebay for that back bar or hope to find even a parts machine.There is a good shop in Indy that can work on it.Call Ed @ Indianapolis Sewing Machine.